Question about 1985 Jeep Cherokee

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New rebilt carter yfa installed, but idle at 3k all adjustment screws backed out, ? the 2.5 L 4 cylinder came from P O with a jury rigged rochester carb of 77 ford vintage, hard to start so I got the rebuilt stock one. now the throttle sticks and even pushed closed by hand idle is 3,000 rpm.

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  • jmczzz Jul 27, 2009

    thanks for the advice. I went through quite a bit of investigation a few months ago to determine what engine I have. To make a long story short I believe it is a AMC 150 C I not the "iron duke" 151 C I.

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The 2.5 L engine is the Pontiac Iron Duke sourced from GM since it was still AMC. They came with Rochester carbs, while Ford used Holley 2 brls on their 4 cyl engines and Chrysler used Carter carbs. You might have the wrong carb and the throttle plates are sticking on the intake manifold. You can try using a carb adapter/spacer. If you drive off road I would suggest buying a TBI throttle body injection system from a junkyard, and pick up a electirc fuel pump. Either new from a speed shop or used from a newer Jeep with a 2.5 L TBI engine, you'll need the computer, harness, relay, sending unit and lines as well. But you can pick up everything at a pick your part yard for cheap (some yards have all you can carry in your hands for $50 days).

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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I have an 81 Chev with a 350w/ q-jet carb. Their are no screws for air/fuel mix. It has only the plugs. Is there a way to adjust the mix w/o having to remove the plugs, tap and install new screws?


How to Adjust Fuel and Air Mixture On A Carburetor By ...

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39Wcbp6_yNQ
Feb 23, 2014 - Uploaded by TheWhatisright Hopcorvetteman
It is a standard 350 Chevy with no real modification. .... missing something or can they be in a different location on my carb ( 81vette rochester quadrojet ). ... There are two fuel mixture adjustments on the rochester Carburetor.

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How to adjust the fuel and air mixture on a 1982 ford 4.9 six cylinder, carter carburetor.


There should only be 1 screw located at the base of the carb facing outward.

The method I use requires a tachometer. If you don't have a tachometer then you can use the "by ear" method, though it's not as accurate.

With the engine off, start by turning the screw all the way in, then back it out 1 and 1/2 turns. This usually give you a baseline to start with.

Start the engine and get it up to operating temperature, make sure the choke is fully open, and have the air cleaner and all vacuum lines installed.

Using the tachometer (or ear) turn the screw (usually out) until the RPMs increase. If they don't increase by turning the screw out, then try turning it in.

Eventually the RPMs will stop climbing while turning the screw (as said earlier, usually out).

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This setting is ONLY for the base idle air/fuel mixture and is NOT for anything else.

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Feb 16, 2015 | 1982 Ford F 150

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I just rebuilt my F-150 1 barrel Carter carb (1985)once started runs great under all power ranges.Problem? Hard to start.


should adjust the butterfly to about 3/8" opening at 50 degrees farenheit when engine is cold. Usually about 1 mark to the lean side on the choke spring housing. If unsure set the choke to the center mark than richen up one mark at a time until the engine starts and idles up when cold after properly setting choke by fully depressing and releasing the accelerator before cranking. If it doesn't idle up enough turn up the fast idle screw 1/2 turn at a time. Another common problem with the YFA is the choke heat riser tube rusting off at the manifold and the choke not unloading when the engine warms. Install a new riser tube after using a drill bit the same diameter as the tube to drill out the remainder of the old tube in manifold before inserting the new tube and attaching to choke housing.

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I HAVE AN 82 F-100 FORD PICK-UP WITH A STRIGHT 6 1B CARB. I PUT A NEW CARB BUT ITS SPILLING GAS AND THROWING BLACK SMOKE WHEN I START IT HOW CAN I ADJUST THE FLOT AND MIXTURES CAN YOU HELP ME THANK YOU...


You probably have a Carter carb. The metal tag on the top, held on by one of the screws should say YF/YFA. If so, you need to remove all the screws on the top and you will see the float. It should be .78 inches from the bottom(about 3/4 inch). I doubt being new that the float needs adjusted though. If it sat on the shelf long the float might be sticking. You will need to tap lightly (maybe using a wrench, or small hammer).
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