Question about 1997 Ford F350 Crew Cab

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Abs light on, low brakes when started

I have put in new brake lines and new calipers, when bleeding brakes while truck is off, seem fine. Once started, brake pedal very low. the abs light is also on. What would be causing this problem?

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This may be a problem wit your master cyl? possible turned seals id say...

Posted on Jul 27, 2009


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Changed my drivers side caliper and pads now no pedal and no brake fluid to caliper.

When you change the caliper the fluid drains out. You will need to refill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Look up a video on bleeding brakes on youtube. Bleeding the brakes can be a pain in the ceaster. If your car has ABS and you have allowed air to enter the ABS modulator you may need to have the actuators cycled as you bleed the system. Most of the time that can only be done at the dealer or brake shop that has a computer that can do it.

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Just relaced the rear drivers side brake caliper and pads, now I can't get it to bleed. I installed new sealing washers on the brake line banjo bolt and tightend to 26 lbs torque. Somehow I don

if its a abs system youll have to pump the brakes 25 to 30 times key on engine off to disable the abs system to allow fluid to pass.

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After putting on new calipers on both sides of my dodge ram 2005 1500 and bled brakes I have no brakes. What is the problem they worked fine until I did the caliper and brake

Did you bleed rear brakes also? Should do all 4 whenever bleeding brakes starting w/ right rear, left rear, right front then left front. Sounds like air in lines.

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Have a 2000 gmc jimmy 4wd 4.3 liter v6. The truck had some problems with a nasty vibration in the rear for quite some time for the previous owner. Had the tire on and off several times checking every thing...

First, is the ABS light on? If yes by pass the fuse removal step, and lets not even go there it is out of the equation.
If the ABS light is OFF...before we replace more and more parts...that might still be in good condition and that might cost you money you don't have right now for the guessing game...pull the fuse to the ABS brakes, this will kill that system, once the ABS light displays on the dash, we have just eliminated it from the equation....what equation you ask....well what if the ABS was at fault and is the culprit...would't that lock up the wheel if it is sensing trouble, now it is disconnected try it if it works you can leave it alone or spend more money on the fix, when the ABS light is on on any car this means it no longer has that feature, which means the car will now be stopping with regular power brakes not ABS, I have a Mustang for years like this cause it just costs too much to fix it, and it is NOT part of any states inspection requirement.
OK so much for that, next check the axle bearings, raise rear off the ground both sides support on jack stands and turn the axles by hand..feel binding? How about up and down play on the axle hub? If you have bad axles or C.V. joints the rotor will shake and cause the ABS sensor to try to stop the wheel from turning, so any binding or excessive play have the bearing/c.v. joints replaced.
If all that is ok, now we go back to the brakes, check the condition of both rear neoprene rubber brake lines, if they are cracked and brittle(sorry looking) replace them, they have a tendency to collapse on the inside of the hose causing the fluid to lock up the calipers pistons, so check this .... it definately sounds like the brake hydraulic system is contaminated, and the flush was probably a right idea, however it did not complete the repair.
If I were you, I would pull the calipers from both rears and test them in a vise, put a 1/2 " piece of wood trim in between the brake pads(caliper bolted in vise, brake pads back in it, wood acts as the rotor for this test, get it?) If no wood the pistons will come out of there bore and the test is worthless...apply a low pressure regulation of compressed air to each caliper through the brake line port into the the pistons apply pressure on the wood? Do they retract when you release the pressure, or are they stuck"frozen"...If so this is your problem...sticking calipers, inspect the rotors for overheating signs of hair line cracks/blueish coloration if they are over heated replace as they may have lost there temper and may have become too brittle.
Always replace brakes as an axle set ...two rotors...two calipers....two disc/drum brake pads.
Below is a laundry list of ABS brake bleeding proceedures to follow only if you replace items other then downstream of the ABS modules...things like wheel cylinders(calipers) brake lines etc...all get the normal brake bleeding.
Here is thearticle I found in sequence for ABS systems:
Anytime the a brake system is opened to replace components such as calipers, wheel cylinders, the master cylinder, or brake lines or hoses, air gets inside. The air has to be removed by bleeding the brakes if you want a firm brake pedal. Air trapped in the lines, calipers or wheel cylinders will make the pedal feel soft and spongy. Air is compressible, so when the brakes are applied any air bubbles in the system must first be compressed before the hydraulic fluid will transmit pressure to apply the brakes.

As a rule, the brake circuits on most vehicles with anti-lock brakes can be bled in the usual manner, provided no air has gotten into the ABS modulator assembly. If the only components you replaced were downstream of the modulator (calipers, wheel cylinders, brake hoses or lines), chances are normal bleeding procedures will clear the lines of any unwanted air.

Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder. It does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.

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A bad brake booster will result in a hard brake pedal, stiff and more effort required to stop the truck. Here are my questions to you, first, you said you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it before you installed it? If not, there IS still air in it, regardless of how much you bleed the brakes at the wheels. Second, when you bled the brakes, after changing the calipers and master cyl., did you also bleed the proportioning valve? Sometimes air can get trapped in the valve, and its almost impossible to get it out bleeding just the wheels. And lastly, when the brake light comes on, does the abs light also come on with it? Air can also get trapped in the abs control module too.

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Its probably how your bleeding your brakes, but first make sure the bleeding nipples are facing upward. You should bleed diagonaly, front pass wheel then rear driver wheel. Then front driver wheel and rear pass wheel. The abs light has its own computer your have to get it scanned to clear the codes and turn off the light

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No brakes after changing brake caliper & bleeding system

Sounds like you still have air in your brake lines. Make sure all your brake lines are tight. Then bleed again. Bleed the trouble side first, meaning right side, then go to front left, back left then back right, make sure that your brake fluid is also full

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