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It seems the front shocks are bad. 2002 thoe with autoride. before I change shocks could it be a fuse? I have about 90,000 miles. should I change front shocks?

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They should probably be changed w/ that mileage.
Please use stands and think safe if you do it yourself.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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I have a 2002 Tahoe LT with Autoride, when getting tires replaced I noticed one front and one rear shock were leaking, replacement quote was approx $550 each. Does a leaking shock need to be replaced...


Hello, my name is Shaun. I will do my best to help you out with your problem. As far as your shocks needing to be replaced ASAP, i would say it's not an emergency. Worn shocks will result in a pretty bouncy ride, and if let go long enough, could result in irregular tire wear, but your truck won't fall apart if you don't change them today. Ultimately, the spring is what holds your truck in the air, the shock is just there to absorb impact and make your ride a little more comfortable. They also help in cornering, so expect a little bit of over-steer, as your truck will roll more quickly in tight turns. The shocks should be replaced in pairs, as different shocks have different ride qualities. (i.e both fronts, then both backs.) The Monroe shocks are okay, but they don't last quite as long as a higher end shock. At the price they quoted, you could buy a higher-end shock, do the work yourself, and still save a ton of money. And yes, it is basically as simple as unbolting the old shock and replacing it with the new. My advice to you would be to purchase a Haynes manual for your truck when you purchase the shocks. This will give you step-by-step instructions to change the shocks and will also be a valuable asset should other problems arise. Hope this helped you out, and if you have any more in-depth questions, feel free to reply to this answer and i will get back to you. Have a great day!

Jun 13, 2011 | Chevrolet Tahoe Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What is the differnce of a Lt autoride and a Lt


the lt autoride has self adjusting shocks, and the regular lt doesn't. if you look the autoride has airlines going to the shocks.

Nov 08, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Changed to manual shocks on rear ,how do you clear autoride light?


your cant clear it just put a piece of black tape over it or learn to deal with it

Jul 28, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

2002 1/2 ton twd. Shocks have never been replaced and seem (?) to be okay (68000 mi). Should I change them or wait until? thx in advance


Hello, my name is Ben. I own a truck exactly like yours. I changed my shocks at 46,000. If I were you, I would change them. If you drive with bad shocks it can cause the springs to wear out, which is a much harder repair. Or you can always do the " bounce test". Put your hands on the front fender and push down and let the shocks push up a couple of times and then let go. With good shocks the truck should stop bouncing when you let go.

May 13, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

Back autoride shocks are leaking, compressor kicks on and off. What is the solution


they air shocks aint that expensive but you can also replace them with reg heavy duty shocks and unplug compresser

Mar 04, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Why is my autoride not kicking in when I attach my trailer


The autoride system has three main parts. The first is the very large, complex shock absorber that has not only a sensor to detect shaft travel in the shock but also has an air ride feature that allows more air to be added into the shock and bladder system to increase the support to the rear end. The shock can go bad ($623.00 each MSRP, though you can get them from Monroe for about 250.00-check Amazon.com but be prepared to wait, they have been on backorder recently.) The control module can go bad....check everything else first...or the air pump can go bad.

Are you getting any malfunction codes...Service Ride System?

The most common failure is the bladder of the Shock...check it...it is easily visible from the rear of the vehicle. If the bladder is blown it is usually grossly blown.

Jul 06, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

2 Answers

I am starting to bottom out real bad in the front and a little in the rear as i go over bumps and dips. I aslo hear metal clanking in the front as i hit bumps and stuff.


Get your front and rear shock absorbers/dampers checked out.
Check any rubber mounting bushes are not perished / worn out.

Jun 18, 2009 | 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse

1 Answer

My autoride is not working and I can't figure out which fuse to check.


I'll bet it's NOT the fuse...these are notorious for bad shocks...look to spend upwards $800+ to fix (check with AutoZone/NAPA parts counterperson for aftermarket fixes from Monroe. The fuse is in the engine bay under a black plastic box atop one of the fenderwells...labels for the fuses are on the underneath of the lid of the box.
Good Luck

Jun 14, 2009 | 2003 GMC Yukon Denali

6 Answers

My autoride suspension is not working


A ton of things could be wrong with your autoride system. If you have more than about 70k miles and haven't replaced the rear shocks ($500+ EACH!!! at the dealer), then they are probably leaking out. If they leak out, then the air compressor will always run. Eventually the air compressor/ride level sensor module (located on the driver side rear wheel on the inboard side of the frame, $300+ at the dealer) burns out because it's not designed to run at 100% duty cycles. After the air compressor burns out, the Electronic Stability Control module (in an XL, located inside the passenger side rear wheelwell trim, next to the third row seat, $300+ at the dealer) will probably short out. If your autoride isn't working and you don't get a "Service Stability" message, your ESC module is probably going bad.

It is possible to convert to regular shocks, but to keep the Stability Control (still has to control your brakes and front variable dampening shocks during "evasive" maneuvers), you have to insert some 1/4 watt resistors in to the ride height sensor connectors (can't remember what values, but I'm sure you can Google that) so that the Stability system doesn't throw a code. Not that it matters, but the message can get annoying if it's always there to nag...

My dealer quoted over $2500 to replace the entire system. I figure I can find the control modules from my local junkyard for $300, and the shocks from ebay for $350 for the pair. Be sure to match all of the GM part numbers, and keep an eye out for an upgraded Air Compressor module - GM released an update that is heavier duty and more water-resistant than the first design. I don't remember the part number, but my dealer included the upgrade with my quote.

Oh, and the only "easy" way to test the modules is with a Tech 2 tool. Otherwise it's lots of testing with a 12-volt source and a couple of multimeters and oscilliscopes...

Good luck!

Sep 03, 2008 | 2005 GMC Yukon Xl Denali

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