I have two wee a lot and sometimes i wetmyself

Check battery connection, could be starter,any codes?

Can you warm it up, maybe?

There are lock unfreezer sprays also available. If it were an outside lock, I'd recommend a little wee-wee
as an emergency measure, but not inside. How about warming the key with a heat source then inserting into the frozen lock?

When it idles rough it could be several things but, an easier thing you can do 1st is cleat the throttle body of any carbon(black stuff) with throttle body cleaner or something like carb cleaner. Ive used brake cleaner sometimes. But yea, look up your cars info about your motor and just clean all the black carbon off of anything at the throttle body and you may even need to take some of it apart to get down in there with a rag, little cleaning brush and the cleaner. Clean the thing you can move by hand called a "butterfly".

Howdy Grichards360,

Not knowing the AGE of your AC only makes it a wee
bit harder to speculate... (good news though)...
INTERMITENT operation = cheap & easy.

SUFFICE it to say REALLY EXPENSIVE issues
are like HATE & UGLY... They stay (and accumulate).

My BEST GUESS is your system pressure is
right at the THRESHOLD where designers
have CORRECTLY (even mercifully) decided it is
marginal enough not to USELESSLY operate the
components at all...

An ideal time (and stable enough system) to
"top-up" your refrigerant charge... (see below)

unless you live in CALIFORNIA ... you should easily be able to purchase a kit to accomplish this TASK yourself.

Two CAUTIONS here:

1). Refrigerants can be quite dangerous...
(read & heed precautions (especially refrigerant TYPE)).

2). "Top-Up" is a STUNT... Proper maintenance would
dictate a serious consideration be given to PROPER
lubrication. If this is the first time in 10 or 15years you will
PROBABLY be fine...

(ELSE: study up or comment back).

Hope this helps

Carnac the Magnificent

Ouch...sounds like you deformed the hood release mechanism when you hit Bambi. No override, but just a lot of hard work in very tight places. If the body damage from the deer strike has not been repaired, go ahead and break out the front fascia (grille) and you will wee the hood latch mechanism just under and in the center of the hood. You can usually jimmy this mechanism with a big screwdriver, or if it's too damaged for that, there are three or four 10mm bolts that hold the mechanism to the front fascia sub-panel.

1 bar = 14.5 psi

You can pull the knobs off and the wee bulbs are in behind them. The tiny wee bulbs are a bayonet bulb easily purchased from a parts supplier e.g. mercedes agents or repco (in NZ).

Hi

If the engine is running without any problems then The fault code which has flagged the checked engine light will either pertain to the upstream O2 sensor, a drop in catalytic efficiency, an EGR issue, or maybe even an EVAP issue.

A lot of EVAP issues can be resolved by simply ensuring that the fuel filler cap is on securely, otherwise a vacuum leak will be detected in the system and the check engine light will come on.

A drop in catalytic efficiency (P0420) is usually temporary and will stay away after a reset.

EGR issues can sometimes be rectified by removing the EGR valve and cleaning it, and the ports on the intake where it was sat, but there are occasions when it has to be renewed.

The O2 sensor issues are a wee bit different. There are a number of fault codes which relate to the O2 sensor, and which make the O2 sensor look faulty, when the O2 sensor is actually attempting to rectify a problem from elsewhere and isn't faulty at all. However, they could also be due to a fault with the O2 sensor. Basically, further checks should be made before condemning the O2 sensor should the fault code relate to the sensor.

Have a code read done and then have the codes reset and see what comes up.

Regards

Geordie

It may be the fuel filter try having it replaced