After about 10 mins. while the vehicle has ran, the lights tend to flicker on and off. when i cut the car off, they don't do it any more. i cleaned all the fuses off, and i don't think it has a short in it. I'm just lost and ran out of ideas
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Re: a wiring problem in the lights
You have a problem with your lighting wiring harness that controls all of the lighting accessories on the car. also could be most likely a short in the harness in the wires. commom problems on older jeeps.
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When you turn the vehicle on the PCM does a check on the system. For most sensors, it checks power and ground. Turns the light off if all is good. Since yours comes on after a few seconds, you need to check the signal return wire. Wires tend to break right at the plug. You'll need a volt/ohmmeter to check it. Also check the continuity of the wire from the TPS to the PCM. Anything over 5 ohms needs replaced. I just cut the wire and run a new one.
MAKE SURE YOUR BATTERY IS CHARGED OR NEW. TAKE OFF THE STEERING COLUMN COVERS. PUT THE KEY IN, NO EXTRA KEYS HANGING FROM IT. START THE CAR. UNPLUG THE CONNECTOR WITH THE YELLOW, BLACK, AND WHITE WIRES CONNECTING TO THE PASSLOCK/LOCK CYLINDER, AND IT WILL CONTINUE TO RUN.TAPE THE CONNECTORS. REPLACE COVER. YOUR THEFT LIGHT WILL STAY ON/FLICKER. YOU HAVE DISABLED THE SYSTEM. NOW THE CAR WON'T CUT OFF WHILE TRYING TO START IT. SUMMARY: YOUR PASSLOCK WAS FAILING. OTHERWISE IF YOUR IGNITION SWITCH WAS FAILING, IT PROBABLY WOULDN'T TRY TO START. FOUND THIS ON A SITE FOR A CAVALIER...... AND SUNFIRES DIAGRAMS AND THEFT FEATURES ARE MOSTLY THE SAME. NO PELLET IN KEY. NO RESISTORS. NO CUTTING WIRES. NO 10 MIN RELEARN. HOPE THIS HELP.
it does sound like the alternator but i would get the battery charged and then have someone to check the charging system and the fuses......get the battery charged first so they want try to sell you a battery and an alt. cause there are a few people out there that want to take you.....
Go to Autozone or Oreillys for a free scan of both the computer and the alternator. It sounds like a Regulator is bad. There reason it works well the first 10 minutes is that the battery is recharging and the Alternator is steadily charging via the Regulator. Then when the battery is charged the Regulator is tapering the charge and providing just the amount of energy your car needs.
This provides an off-on cycle which is the flicker you notice. It is not normal to show up and should be seamless. You may have the type of Alternator with a built-in Regulator and will have to open the Alternator or replace it to change the Regulator. There may also be a Headlight relay they mentioned, but if you notice the flickering in the overhead Dome light with the engine running at different speeds it is more likely the Regulator.
It sounds like the Alternator is actually bad. One great way to determine this: Recharge the new battery with a trickle charge overnight. Make sure use remove the wires going to the Battery before recharging. Replace the Battery Wires. Get the Vehicle Started. When it has Started: Leave it Running and Disconnect and Remove the Negative side of the Battery. If the Vehicle dies, it is the Alternator that is bad, and needs to be replaced.. The Battery starts that vehicle, and provides nominal power to certain accessories. The Alternator actual Runs the Engine and Recharges the Battery with a low trickled charge.
There must be an overload (short circuit) or excessive resistance in the circuit to the headlights which is tripping the breaker... (breaker is thermal and will reset after cooling, but not FOREVER)... look for wire breaks or corrosion on terminals... Hope this helps... ;-)
OK IS THERE IS ACTUALLY A mis-FIRE THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE SHAKING DURING IDLE AND ACCELERATION IF IT IS, here is what you do get a noid light this used to check injector pulse. This vehicle will set a misfire code if injector is not functioning efficiently or bad. A noid light is like a test light bulb can be bought at almost any auto store.SART UP VEHICLE AND DISCONNECT THE INJECTOR WIRE TO THE CYLINDER THAT'S mis-FIRING AND CONNECT noid LIKE TO ELECTRICAL PLUG. DO THIS ONE CYLINDER AT A TIME. The nod light should have a steady flickering light/consistent pattern of flickering. If there is Gap/irratic flickering or no flickering BINGO you have found your problem. NO FLICKERING= bad/broken injector wire if not broken BAD COMPUTER/ECU. IF THE FLICKERING IS CONSISTENT /GOOD = BAD INJECTOR..replace injector and solve the misfire problem. However is all the components tested are ALL GOOD. Then the only other SOURCE for a mis-fire is the camshaft sensor that provides reference for injector pulse and the crankshaft sensor provide reference for Spark pulse. JUST ON A LAST NOTE: make sure all oils are getting electrical power to them. Good Luck I know this is alot of info at once. Contact me if you need more help. Thanks fr using FIX YA
You do need an alternator. Nissan has a campaign on Maxima alternator in certain years such as 96-98 I believe. Go to your friendly Nissan dealer abd have them punch your VIN number into the NNA net. they will know and that will tell them if your vehicle applies by the VIN. I have seen the alternator on fire. There was fire inside of the alternator. Have it checked or the car can catch on fire.