1988 DT40CR Suzuki outboard is stuck in the full down position feels like it's mechanically locked. No amount of pulling, jiggling, prying will move it. It has power tilt. How do I unlock it.
There is a hydraulic "unlock" screw somewhere on the side of the power trim reservoir.. usually easily accessible with a flat blade screwdriver... just turn it out about 3/4 - 1 turn.. no more... this will bypass the system and allow you to pull up your outboard.
Thanks Steve, but still feels like it's locked. It will not power up, nor will it move manually. Tilt motor runs, but no cylinder rod movement. This all started because the power tilt would bleed down after raising, so I serviced it. After it went full down, it locked up. There are no leaks and there is fluid in the reservoir (can't tell how much)
Paul, Did you find the "bypass" screw? Try screwing it in all the way and see if the trim motor starts lifting the engine after you fill the reservoir full and cap it.. run the trim motor.. you may have air trapped in the pump and causing the "lock". I have seen older OMC smaller outboards actually lock down because of amechanical issue..(something metal locks against something else metal)..Once you have exhausted all efforts.. get several of your buddies..loosen the "bypass screw" and lift like (*^$(*# and see if you can pull the foot up.
Thanks Steve. Yes, I tried the bypass screw and got nothing. Servicing may be a problem because this motor/reservoir requires the motor to be in the full up tilt position to service. I may have to remove the reservoir to get it full. I'll start over and take it step-by-step. If all else fails, I'll go the brute force route.
Paul, IF you get the bypass screw to back out..try backing it out slowly until it stops.. you should be able to pick-up(tilt) the engine by pulling up on the lower unit... if not, there is something else wrong.
Good Luck...
Thanks Steve. What if I have backed out the by-pass screw completely. Have I messed something up?
By completely ..do you mean it came out?
.. If so,, will the motor tilt up now?
You shouldn't have been able to completely remove it..it should have gotten firm and you should have stopped. NO biggie, you should be able to screw it back in..make sure its lubed good before trying.. lmk
Yes it came completely out, but goes back in with no problem. Motor still will not tilt up, but I have been able to tilt it another 2 inches or so from the bottomed out position. I'm going to attach a come-a-long & apply more tension and see what happens. Taking it slow. Thanks.
OK, I broke the tilt loose using the come-a-long. Makes a metal on metal sound tilt up & down (manually). Still does not work using switch (motor/pump operate, but no cylinder movement). Also noted that the bypass screw had not been fully seated before, but during this come-a-long process, it was completely seated (white washer seated into the body).
If you are pulling up with the come-a-long, make sure the bypass screw is open. The metal on metal sound is probably the main cause of the not going up and down..the pump may be damaged because of the "locked-up" issue.. the electrical motor may be working and not turning the pump.. (or the fluid volume may still be very low)..With the bypass open.. use the come-a-long (I use a tie-down around the lower unit with the hooks connecting the c-a-l). I have a feeling that this may be happening as I type.. LMK..
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On most of the 1981-88 model year engines covered in this information, the alternator/water pump drive belt is tensioned by a screw type tensioner, which makes precise tension adjustment easy.
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