98 dodge dakota has worn univ joint on steering shaft engine side of firewall below brake booster how do i replace

easiest to access from below , there will be a pin that holds the drive shaft ti the drive , you will have to strip down from wheel end as well

Power Steering Leak Fix 1987 1996 Dodge Dakota 1988 Dodge Dakota LE 3 9L V6

12 specific steps will help you :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

Sounds like a drive shaft U-Joint or a brake noise.

The "knucle" you are describing (The part with the U-joint built into it) is called the Intermediate Shaft.
It is somewhat common for the U-joints in this shaft to get loose. It is not difficult to replace. You just remove the bolt from the steering column main shaft under the dash and remove the bolt from the steering gear assembly. The shaft will then "collapse" or "push inside of itself" to provide the clearance to remove it from both ends. The hardest part is working the rubber boot out of the way where it goes through the toe-board. The boot is actually 2 pieces and can be moved in and out of itself as well, but can be somewhat difficult to get it moved out of the way far enough to work wjth the bolts at either end.

CAUTION: When removing the intermediate shaft, extreme care must be used to make sure that the upper steering column shaft (and steering wheel) does not rotate. If this rotates around, the contact assembly for the airbag can be damaged. When I am doing these, I usually take a bungee cord and run it from the steering wheel to the brake pedal lever. This will allow a little movement to work with the shaft while at the same time, preventing the steering wheel from rotating all the way around.

I don't understand what you mean by a bolt over!!!, But when they did all that other stuff did they happend to chk. the ball joints, I have a 2001 durango, and i recieved a letter from chys. that there was a recall on the ball joints on durangos and dakotas so the dealer change them at no charge to me. Sound to me to be a ball joint issue, at least it would be worth looking into.

did you bleed the master cyl. before or during installation? bleed brakes in proper order?RR LR RF LF? does it have a power booster between master cyl.& firewall?check for vacuum to booster.when ABS isn't working you should still have brakes.suspect power booster diaphram.

I have the same clunk when I turn sharp...anyone have an idea?

Hello
Welcome to FixYa
there is a u joint to be replaced on your steering shaft just after the steering shaft
open the hood look down to the steering shaft you will see a small u joint very common to go bad most auto parts stores carry the part
RD

Try loosening the retaining nut just a few threads, turn the steering so that you can firmly hit the area just below nut, while putting force down on ball joint.
Try using a brass drift of some type so you don't damage housing too much.