Just finished bleeding my honda. right rear and front left ,can only pump brake half way and not much brake fluid comes out, and brakes not operating on those two wheels.something is shutting the channel in the brake lines it seems.Also bled the ABS modulator too, no help.

Michael:

You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.

Same as the last 100 years on any vehicle

Start at the farthest point-- back right,left rear,
right front, left front

Every 2 years your flush all vehicles all brakes

Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid before beginning. Jack the car up so that the two rear wheels are about six inches above the ground. Slide under the right rear wheel and look at the back of the brake system for a small bleed valve. A bleed valve is a hollow bolt. When loosened it will allow the brake fluid to flow out and result in the vehicle having no brakes Fit a rubber hose over the end of the bleed valve. Make sure it forms a tight seal and make sure the free end is below the level of fresh and clean brake fluid. As the brake fluid in the line pushes out of the system, you will see a bubble come from the end that is under fluid.Have a helper sit in the driver's seat and follow your instructions. Tell your helper to pump the brakes hard a few times. Open the bleeder valve and tell your helper to press the brake pedal firmly down to the floor and hold it there until you indicate otherwise. Close the bleeder valve and have your helper release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until you see a small bubble ejected from the tubing under the surface of the brake fluid in the jar. Once you have finished with this wheel, move to the left rear wheel. Before you begin the next wheel brake, refill the master cylinder reservoir. Get set up and repeat the same steps for this tire.The next two wheels you will bleed are the right front wheel and then the left front wheel. Bleed the wheels in the order of the longest brake line first and then working towards the shortest brake line. Refill the master cylinder reservoir before beginning each new wheel. Once the rear brakes are finished, lower the car and jack up the front of the car. Remember to road test the brakes and make sure they operate well

First, there is NO Pumping of the brake pedal
involved in bleeding brakes

I think your smart enough to know you
need to replace both rear brake hoses,
before you proceed with the bleeding

Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, leave the cap off, open bleeder on left front wheel cylinder till fluid begins to come out and close the bleeder. Go to the right front and bleed it, this is gravity bleeding and works fine without a helper to pump the pedal, when fluid starts to come out close bleeder. Now go to the right rear and bleed it the same way. Then lastly, the left rear. Bleed it and you should be done and with a good pedal. If you don't have good pedal, you'll need someone to pump and hold the brake down as you bleed each one from the closest to master cylinder around to the farthest from it in sequence. It's the only way to bleed brakes.

right rear,left rear,right front,left front wheels.

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

ALWAYS START YOUR BLEED PROCESS AT THE WHEEL FARTHEST FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER, WHICH IN YOUR CASE IS THE RIGHT REAR, THEN THE LEFT REAR, FOLLOWED BY RIGHT FRONT AND THEN LEFT FRONT.

Clean the outside of the master cylinder reservoir so as to keep dirt out of all fluid.
Use a new, previously unopened bottle of the correct fluid (DOT 3, perhaps).
Open the seservoir, starting with the right rear, attach a suitable tube to the bleed screw, place the other end of the tube in a stable one quart jar below the level of the hub. Loosen the bleed screw (added tube attached) one half turn and allow gravity to move fluid from reservoir through the system watching two things: ceasation of bubbles in fluid exiting the bleed tube and that the reservoir never be allowed to run dry. Close the bleed screw, remove the bleed tube.
Repeat for left rear, right front and left front.
Check that firm high brake pedal is obtained prior to test driving.
Be ceratin that the brakes function before moving the vehicle.
Be careful with brake fluid, it will damage many surfaces and finishes. It does absorb moisture so keep it dry (no rain exposure). Dispose of old/unused fluid properly.

start by bleeding the fluid from the drivers front wheel first,till the fluid comes out. then the passenger front wheel then the rear right wheel then the rear left wheel, repeat again make sure to keep the aster cylinder full of fluid so it doesnt run dry. bleed till u get a steady stream of fluid from each of the wheels when bleeding them in the sequence ive stated.