Borrow ATV to do some field spraying but it keeps blowing the 30 amp fuse. Sprayer on its own power. Replace fuse, runs for a couple of minutes then blows, thoughts?

not a car it is ATV offroad
same on all things like this that is a DC battery feed power loss
pure electrical failures.
fuses bad or loose?
battery is bad as it is intermittent and they do that.
so key on all power is lost, so a voltmeter in hand finds them all
if still dead testing
bad battery lugs and cable ends. loose or rusty.
the dash dead smacks of full power loss !

\and will be seen too in the fuse box, 12vdc lost there or even everywhere there dead. and bingo that. for sure.
learn to do the test fast only when dead dash.

if battery box fuses all then dead , so is the battery now.
batteries have many failure mode.
dead
or intermittent (hot ..,/cold or vibration )
or open cell 1 of 6 (2 volts per cell)
see 10volts there a cell is dead.!!!
12.6vdc is charged battery state, rested.
or jumper cable jump start the battery in ATV from car.
if dash wakes up bingo your ATV battery is bad.
buy the service manual for Kawasaki and see all that clearly

The 20 Amp fuse (diagram shows only one 20A) feeds ignition coil and fuel pump circuits. With a current probe measure the two circuits separately to identify which is most probable cause.

Check battery voltage with engine running. It should be well over 13 VDC.

If it will run for a few minutes, you might get by with a touch test of the ignition coil and fuel pump. If one is markedly hot, the heat likely identifies the culprit. But a current probe is the tool necessary if you want to avoid part$ swapping.

Recommend fuel pressure check also. Eccessively high pressure could be problematic and low pressure would further implicate fuel pump.

Ok the 6 amp fuse is for the ecm the 15 amp fuse is for the cluster one of the 20 amp is main power the outher 20 amp should be for the starter and charging circuit .your over heating problem could be in the fan temp sensor you will find it on the left side of the machine on top of the thermostat housing , take and disconnect the plug on it and jumper the two wires togather with key on fan should come on if it does replace fan temp sensor .if not visibly pull each fuse out and look to see if is burnt odds of the fan being bad is very uncommon. This will be all good if is an EFI 800 hope that is helpfull

define "stopping". If it involved using the new ignition switch, then I think a return to the dealer is necessary. You know it takes 3 times for them to get it right?

Unplug wires going to stater, starter, and any other wire you can find related that could be grounded when ignition is in run position. As well as any after market things like hand warmers, winch, light's. Keep unplugging things until fuse doesn't blowing then start hooking up one at a time till you find the problem. If you have a meter you can check some of these items to see if there shorted out or just get a bunch of fuses and try other way mentioned. Do Not use larger fuses as a matter of fact you can use a slight lower amp fuse for testing.

You've got spark to get it to fire, but not enough air or fuel to keep it running. When you are starting the engine, your carburetor makes the fuel mixture richer, by reducing the amount of air in comparison to the amount of fuel it's sending to the engine (that's the "choke"). Then, when it's running the motor's vacuum rebalances the mixture to normal and that's when you conk out. Chances are it's a fuel delivery issue, without that choke the mixture goes too lean (not enough fuel).

You've probably been running standard gas with 10% ethanol. I have found that on older ATV's (like my 98 Honda), especially if the ATV sits for a month or two unused, ports in the carb clog with the residue from ethanol and it needs to be cleaned.

Unfortunately, you can't just spray something in the intake of the carb, you have to remove it and spray the cleaner into numerous ports in the carb and preferably blow them out with compressed air. If you're mechanically inclined, it's pretty easy, and costs almost nothing. However, ethanol also attacks rubber parts used in earlier carbs, possibly like yours, and that can mean replacing a couple parts, but rarely anything expensive.

You may have blown the main fuse for the starter relay. Easy to do. If you follow the red positive battery cable to the starter relay (most models) you'll find the starter relay at the other end. There should be a fuse in the relay or in a panel on the atv. Same type square standard sized boxed fuses car use. Best place to start. If you comment or answer with your year, make, model and engine size I can provide a better answer.

All The Best, Justin McCartney
17 South Industries, LLC

**FYI - that's a pretty standard starter relay. That's for a Yamaha Bear Tracker - two fuses - one is the main and the other is a spare that you can pull out and use. When the fuse blows no power. - With your lights - they will still work if attached directly to battery. Relay won't if fuse is blown.



29, 30 & 31 are the starter relay for the model this diagram goes to. Usually the relay is going to be close to the battery, by the way.

Whoops, can you tell me why you changed the fuse and what happened before that, and are you sure it wad a 30 amp that's awfully high, what was the fuse for on the machine, and sometimes it will blow fuses if they are too high not good, and plus doo you have any accessories you have added to the machine? Might be battery not grounded, like if it gets wet will blow the fuses, and an overload of amperage more details unless this helps ya

4 wire or 5 wire cdi makes a difference.? help me help you !!

Have a load test done on the battery as a good battery should be 13.5 volts. There may be a dead cell that is not taking the load. Under crank load the voltage will drop off and there will not be enough current left to run the ignition system. The sprayer will use considerable less current that a starting engine so that is not an indication of a good battery