Question about Mercedes-Benz SL65
I could get you some more if needed, just contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org
But pls don´t forget to mark this as fixed.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
Phillips & Slotted Screwdriver
Marking pencil or Chalk
Metric socket set.
Blunt stuffing tool (rounded putty knife)
Spray Adhesive 1 lb. #9410 or Brush Adhesive, quart #9411
Weatherseal Adh.. black #9412
Silicone Adh. Black #9413
Pliers or Vice Grips
Set the new top into position on the car, check that everything is in order and that window and car protection are in place.
With the front rail in the vertical position apply contact cement to the underside of the rail.
Apply the cement to approximately 2/3 of the channel at each side of the locking pin.
Contact cement can now be applied to both the right rear and left rear retainer flaps.
The adhesive should be concentrated from the seam to approximately 1 1/4 inches outward on the flap to insure an adequate bonding to the retainer rail will be made.
While allowing the contact time to set up and become tacky, a dry run on setting the top to the rear rail should be made.
Start by centering the top to the rail.
The seam on the skirt of the top is positioned directly on the edge of the rail.
The top is pulled around the rail so that the notch in the flap meets the end of the rail, the skirt will flow in a smooth continuation of the rail and meet the body of the car.
Fit the skirt along the edge in short segments forming a relatively flush extension of the rail.
When satisfied, use a blunt stuffing tool to push the flap into the channel.
Using this procedure continue setting the top along the rear portion of the retaining rail.
Using a blade or scissors, trim away any excess flap material from the channel.
Apply contact to the side sections of the rear retainer flap, both left & right side.
Once the cement has become very tacky, set the rear side portions of the top on the rail, remember the notch in the flap goes flush with the end of the rail.
Again, once you are satisfied that the skirt is a flush continuation of the rail, place the flap and using the blunt stuffing tool apply pressure to permanently set the flap into the channel.
This procedure is repeated for the other side.
Again trim excess if is necessary.
The key to a trouble free installation at the front of the top is keeping in mind that the front bow and listing stitch are your reference points when gluing the top to the header bow.
Apply contact cement to the header bow and front of the top.
When setting the front of the top to the header bow begin by straddling the listing over the front bow and make sure the corner is properly positioned.
Work your way across the front, keeping the stitch and bow alignment uniform while placing the top to the header bow.
Go to the opposite corner, and place the remaining portion of the front to the header bow.
Remember the stitch should be positioned uniformly over the first bow.
Continue to check and reposition as necessary.
Once you are satisfied with the front of the top, install the cable screws in the header bow.
Using an upholstery pin locate the exact position in the top that will align the screw with the cable eyelet and the hole in the header bow.
Once this has been found, mark the spot and with a punch make a small hole in the top.
Pull the side cables thru the pockets with the strings provided. If the strings have been removed, use a wire pull to fish them thru.
Put the chrome phillips screw through the screw eyelet, through the top material the cable eyelet and into the header bow. Apply contact cement to the underside of the header bow, at the ends and along the front edge of the header and deck.
Once the contact cement becomes tacky use a blunt tool to set the front of the top to the underside of the header bow.
Apply contact cement to the underside of the front side flaps and set into place.
With the front corners now in place apply contact cement to the outer side of the front side flaps and to the horizontal door glass seal.
Allow time for the glue to set up and place the seal into position.
When fitting the top under the header bow the excess material is removed by making two relief cuts.
The first cut is made along the deck seam and should stop about 3/4 of an inch from the leading edge.
The second relief cut will be near the end of the header bow, work the excess material into a pleat.
Make the second notch cut leaving about 5/16 inch of material from the apex of the cut to the edge of the header bow, trim the reinforcement as well.
Apply contact cement to the pull tab you have just created and pulling it inward toward the center of the header bow, cement the tab into place.
Contact cement can now be applied and the remaining front of the quarter glued into place.
The front of the top is now ready for final trim.
Make sure enough material is left so that unfinished edge of the top underlies the weatherseal retainer and not beyond.
The retainer screws should fall about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch inside the trimmed edge.
Re-install the header bow weatherseal retainer.
The weatherseal is held into the retainer by an interlocking lip.
Using a blunt tool work the seal back into the retainer.
Apply adhesive to the end of the header bow and the weatherseal.
Press the end of the seal into place.
Install the horizontal door glass seal retainer.
The weatherseal is interlocked in its retainer with a blunt stuffing tool.
Thread the side tension cable through the hole at the top of the vertical frame member, route it around the stud and bring it back through the lower hole.
With the pliers, pull the cable taut and tighten the cable stud nut.
Cement the pull tab to the vertical member by applying contact cement to both surfaces and pulling the tab tight enough to properly position the binding to the edge of the frame then set the tab.
With the upper and lower side corners set, apply contact cement to the vertical frame member and vertical flap.
The extra material has been left at the bottom of the flap to bridge the gap between the bottom of the vertical frame member and the body of the car.
Glue and fold the material forming a seal of sorts which lies on the body.
Trim the excess material.
Set the vertical flap into place on the frame using a blunt stuffing tool to press it firmly into the corner then trim the excess flap material.
Use a pointed tool to find the hole in the frame member for the flat head screw and eyelet.
Make a hole for the screw, install the screw and eyelet.
Locate and make the necessary screws holes for the retainer.
Install the vertical door glass seal retainer with the retainer screws.
Now install the vertical door glass seal, again interlocking the seal lip into place with a blunt stuffing tool.
When attaching the listings to the bows, keep in mind that the unfinished portion of the listing is wrapped around the bow first and the portion with the folded finished edge is installed last to provide a nice finished look and avoiding unsightly frayed edges.
Protect the top from overspray and apply contact cement to the bow and the unfinished listing edge.
When the adhesive is tacky, wrap the listing around the bow and smooth it out.
Apply more adhesive to the covered bow and finished edge.
When adhesive is tacky wrap listing around the bow in the opposite direction.
Smooth out the listing and repeat the procedure for the remaining bows.
Remember the unfinished edge is wrapped first followed by the folded edge.
With everything else in order the rear retainer can be raised to the vertical position for installation of the rubber seal.
Interlock the lip of the rubber seal into the channel using a blunt stuffing tool and work the lip into the channel.
Start the installation from the center and work toward the end.
Latch the top into position.
Use contact adhesive to glue the horizontal side seals which have been provided in the space between the door glass and the horizontal flap.
Remove tools and protective coverings.
Check for excess adhesive and clean off with solvent.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
Do you have any place to start whatsoever? Do you have any kind of diagrams or anything? It's definitely not the easiest soft top to install, especially if you've never done one before. Have you checked to see what a dealer would charge you to install it? It'd be no good to mess up your $100K+ car. I am not sure where to even start as far as how to explain it via text.
Thanks, let me know
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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