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14 volts charge is correct. Standing voltage on a good fully charge battery is 13.2 volts or so. I check one on charge with a 6 amp charger and it was 14.2 volts. It dropped to 13.8 with charger off.
The place you are taking the car to does not know squat about fixing the issue. Find yourself another mechanic and have them pay for the fix!. Ridiculous situation.
And if you used your credit card to pay for the initial work U might look into having the charge reversed since the car was never correctly repaired in the first place!
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Can't charge wrong port adaptor fits only one port. The smoke and smell is because of the overfill. To much pressure in the system. How much did you over charge? Might be able to help get it back to correct charge
Did anyone check the fuel pressure before the fuel pump was replaced? Does it have the correct fuel pressure now? Is your charging system working correctly? Is the check engine light staying on while the engine is running? Are there any fault codes in the engine computer?
There are many variables that can cause the symptoms you are describing. A lot more information is needed to figure out what is going on.
1--BLEND DOOR NOT SEALING PROPERLY
2--FRONT CONDENSOR PLUGGED UP WITH DEBRIE
3--FRONT CONDENSOR NOT TRANSFERING HEAT (SPRAY WITH GARDEN HOSE WHILE ---RUNING SYSTEM IF IT WORKS BETTER CONDENSOR MAY HAVE TO GET CHANGED
4--WRONG CHARGED WEIGHT IN SYSTEM
5--COMPRESSOR CYCLE TIME NOT CORRECT
6--IF COOLANT CABLE VALVE ON SYSTEM MAY NOT BE CLOSING CORECTLY
---TRY PINCHING OFF THE COOLANT LINES TO HEATER CORE
why are they wrong???? you been taking them off or what???
the firing order is 1-3-4-2,,,,,next time you change the plugs only change one plug at a time,,,that or mark your leads with 1-2-3-4
the No 1 plug is the front cylinder by the water pump,,,
By my experience you have a low charge, it sounds nuts, but for some reason it will blow warm on pass side and cool on driver side with low charge.
If the charge is correct, than you have a actuator issue.
It will have to be looked at for proper diagnosis.
I would start with a a/c performance test.
You are correct on all accounts. A high number means you dying battery is sucking more juice from the Schumacker. A low number means the battery is not as thirsty. That's how I always think of how to read the meter on mine. Slow charge is a better, deeper charge. The quick charge will get you going, but you should maybe follow it up using the normal mode - car alternator and prolonged drive time. I never use quick charge, personally.
Maybe your 1-2 solaniod in your tranny is faulty, any shop with a scan tool can tell you whats up with it, you might have to pay them for diagnosing it, though. Just had a brain freeze, Auto Zone can scan your car and Parts Source and should tell you what's wrong and the last time i know it was no charge, Well it is here LOL Good luck and hope this help. It might just be as simple as a bad speed sensor or lose wire from the sensor.
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