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Replacing the tie rod right on the JD L111. Bolts are attached to tie rod. Is this an easy fix with new tie rod?

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Normally yes then the fun starts adjusting the tracking to avoid severe tyre wear.

Posted on May 20, 2017

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How hard is it to replace the right side tie rod end?


Hello arriedad: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. It would depend on which tie rod end you are replacing.There are two right tie rod ends. You have a inner and a outer tie rod. The outer tie rod is easy. The inner takes a special tool to replace it. You will need an alignment when you are done as you will not be able to see when you have it correct. You can try to count the threads but the new end might be cut different. I would suggest that if you are not sure have a front end person perform the repairs. This way the alignment can be set at the same time. If not set you have premature tire failure. Some repairs are just best left to an expert if not for you then the safety of your family. If you still need further help please just ask and I will answer your questions. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

Feb 15, 2011 | 2000 Buick Park Avenue

2 Answers

How do i change a rack and pinion in a 94 ford areostar all wheel drive?


THIS IS NOT A EASY JOB FOR THE DO IT YOURSELFR. I RECOMMEND A PRO.

Dec 18, 2010 | Ford Aerostar Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Inner tie rod removal


The first step in replacing the inner tie rod is to remove the tie rod end. It's basically a three step process, where you start by loosening the jam nut that's used to set the alignment (toe-in or toe-out). That jam nut determines how far up the inner tie rod the tie rod end is fixed. The tie rod end is hollow and threaded, so it can be screwed on or off the inner tie rod. Any procedure for removing a tie rod will start by telling you to count the turns you unscrew the tie rod end, something that I didn't do, and I'll save the explanation for the end:-) After you loosen the jam nut, you remove the cotter pin from the post on the outer tie rod ball joint, and unscrew the nut that holds the ball joint into the tapered fitting on the steering knuckle (video to right). After you pop the outer tie end free of the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the tie rod end. from the inner tie rod, but you need to grip it with something. Inner tie rods normally have some flat surfaces or a splined surface for grabbing with pliers. In this case, I needed two pairs of visegrips and a clamp to hold the visegrips on the inner tie rod from moving in order to get the outer tie rod end broken free and turning easy. That video is below. I happen to own the shop manuals for my Dodge Omni, so I was able to study the procedure for replacing the inner tie rod in detail. I didn't follow it for a couple reason. First, they show my type of power steering rack (Saginaw vs TRW) needs to be removed from the car to change the inner tie rod. That's a lot of extra work, not to mention the fact I buried one of the crossmember bolts in my unibody and flooring repair! So I went with an inner tie rod removal kit from Harbor Freight, manufactured by U.S. General (in Taiwan). The tool is very simple, basically a large steel tub with a snap in opening for a large crows foot insert on one end and a 1/2" socket drive on the other end. The kit is shown in the photo to the lower left (which I need to replace), and a video of the procedure is shown below. The kit wasn't quite right for my car, I had to use an oversized crows foot and the ball joint housing on the inner tie rod was too long, so the flats on the housing were barely held with the crows foot positioned by hand at the very end of the tool. But I got it out.

Dec 16, 2010 | 1992 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

My Pontiac Bonneville has a popping noise when i hit a bump i think its the tie rod ends i don't know if its inner or outer. How can i tell what the problem is and how hard it is to fix.


does it kinda sound like two peices of metal striking each other? most likely the outer tie rod end. the inner tie rod end wouldnt make a sound anything like that, it would snap and you wouldnt be able to steer the car very well.....regardless, this is easy to check. remove the wheel. the object directly behind your brakes is the wheel hub, directly behind the wheel hub is the steering knuckle. connected to the steering knuckle you should find the strut up top, a control arm on the bottom, the sway bar attaches towards the front of the car, the outer tie rod end connects to the hub on the side closest to the rear of the car. connected to the outer tie rod end is the tie rod, which is then connected to your power steering rack and pinion via the inner tie rod ends. you want to locate the outer tie rod end and examine it visually. is the rubber cracked, torn, or missing? if so, replace the outer tie rod end. you will need a 2 jaw puller to remove the old tie rod end, but removal and installation is EASY (i taught my wife how to do it in 5 minutes and she did it successfully in less than 10). depending on how far the jam nut is moved when replacing the tie rod, you may need an alignment after replacing it. if the rubber on the tie rod end looks fine, the noise is probably coming from the strut. when the struts are worn out, the strain of the vehicle bouncing is put on the coil over springs. after a while, the spring can become worn out as well.....this would create a "clunking" sound when going over bumps.....and, if the spring wears out too much, you MIGHT be able to hear a metalic popping sound when the struts reach the damper if the spring hasnt expanded that far yet (this is extremely unlikely tho, more likely than not, the spring would crack/break LONG before you hear this noise and the car would be close to undriveable......). regardless, out tie rod ends are roughly 12-15 bucks each and extremely easy to install. you might be able to find a parts store willing to loan you a 2 jaw puller, but if not they generally run 30-35 dollars....DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A REPAIR MANUAL THE LISTS THE CORRECT TORQUE SETTING FOR THE TIE ROD ENDS. if the bolt isnt torqued propperly, a) your alignment will be off and b) you run the risk of snapping the new tie rod end.

May 03, 2010 | 1999 Pontiac Bonneville

1 Answer

How to Repair Steering Rack Bushing


there are two bolts that connect your inner tie rod to the rack loosen both bolts but only take one out move tie rod down and pop out bushing then replace the new one.Replace bolt and do the same for the other side and then tighten bolts it could be a tight place but very easy job to do

Jan 26, 2010 | 1995 Toyota Camry

2 Answers

Any info on tie rods


You have left and right inner tie rods and outer tie rods on your car.
You also have lower ball joints which can wear loose too....not to mention the left and right struts and upper strut bearings.

A cheap (China) tie rod may last only a year.(plastic inner wear points)
A good quality tie rod may last 10.(nylon and/or metal wear points)

Oct 09, 2009 | 1991 Ford Escort

2 Answers

Tie rod


No. Go to Napa, get the bushing repair kit. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Remove the air inlet tube. Should be 2 7/8" bolts retaining the inner tie rod ends. Loosen both. Remove one at a time, replace bushing with kit. Use some synthetic brake grease on the bushings. I recommend Napa sylglide. Replace the bolt, but do not tighten all the way. Do the other the same way. Tightnen both bolts, reinstall the air inlet tube, get vehicle aligned.

Jul 22, 2009 | 2002 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

Replace rack/pinion


The book calls for about 5 hours labor with a lift, air tools, and experience. It's a tough job. Here are a few tips, Take the lines loose from the rack; not the pump. With the tires off, Remove the nuts from the outer tie rods.Run the nuts back on the tie rods stud and hit the steering knuckle where the tie rod's stud goes through.This will free the stud. Remove the steering shaft from the rack.(take the bolt all the way out.Remove rack mounting bolts. Twist,pull ****,and fight the rack out the side of the car with the most room. The new rack will have inner tie rods already installed. Make sure the new rack is centered.(Turn left then right count the turns then center same # of turns from left to right). Count the threads or measure from the outer tie rod's jam nut to the last thread on the inner tie rod.(you can leave the jam nut in place and take the outer tie rod off and measure from the jam nut to the end of the rod.)Install the outer tie rods. Replace rack in car. hook up steering shaft.Bolt up rack. Hook up lines. Add fluid and work rack back and forth to bleed air. recheck fluid. Have it aligned. (or just take it to a shop.This job is going to be a nightmare!!!)

May 23, 2009 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

1996 chrysler concorde, how to take off the inner tie rod?


I used this website: http://www.allpar.com/fix/intrepid-steering.html It worked perfectly. To add to it, I used a tie rod puller tool rented from Oreilly Auto Parts for only a few bucks, to press the old bushing out of the inner-tie-rod end. Worked very well. Easier than removing the entire tie rod, and hammering it out. However, removing the entire tie rod would make re-assembly easier. If I did it again, I would strongly consider removing the driver side tie rod from the car, then attaching the inner tie rod end 1st. Meaning, attach the passenger side inner tie rod 1st, then the driver side inner tie rod with new bushing, then re-attach the drivers side outer tie rod. That would probably be the easiest way on this 1996 dodge concorde, due to the fuel line that's in the way....

Mar 17, 2009 | 1996 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

Need to replace steering arm on pass side on 1998


Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.

If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:

1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
compressed.
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.

NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.

Jan 02, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Malibu

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