Replacing the tie rod (right) on the JD L111. Bolts are attached to tie rod. Is this an easy fix with new tie rod?

If the tie rods are just loose,you replace the bolts

Obviously if the end joint or brg is worn & loose you replace
them. (not the entire arm,just the joint)

You can replace the bolt or the tie rods yourself,
then have the front aligned within a few days as the
toe will be off.

I assume your talking outer ties rod ends,
not inner --- inside the steering rack boots!!

The inner joint does require the complete, what
looks like a rod or arm to be replaced

Hello arriedad: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. It would depend on which tie rod end you are replacing.There are two right tie rod ends. You have a inner and a outer tie rod. The outer tie rod is easy. The inner takes a special tool to replace it. You will need an alignment when you are done as you will not be able to see when you have it correct. You can try to count the threads but the new end might be cut different. I would suggest that if you are not sure have a front end person perform the repairs. This way the alignment can be set at the same time. If not set you have premature tire failure. Some repairs are just best left to an expert if not for you then the safety of your family. If you still need further help please just ask and I will answer your questions. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

There is a cotter pin that you remove first. Unbolt the tie rod end to where it attaches to the vehicle. You will the need to use a tie rod end separtor to separate it from the knuckle. It is a U kind of tool that you hammer in and it will separate it for you. You will understand what I mean when you see the tool. Next you take two wrenches, one that fits on the flat part of the tie rod end itself ( close to the nut you will see one the treaded bar it is attached to. Take the other wrench and turn the nut on the treaded part of the bar that the tir rod end is attached to. Loosen the bolt, it just needs to be loose so you can turn the tie rod end around. Now that it is loose "unscrew the tie rod end from the treaded bar. Remember to count how many times you turn the tie rod end so you turn it the same amount of turns when you put the new one on. Reassemble in the oposite order remebering to turn that tie rod end the same amount of turns. Make sure that the bolt attached to the treaded bar that the tie rod end screws on is good and tight against the tie rod end so it stays put. I would still think about getting an alighnment and would replace both right and left tie rod ends. I hope this helped and good luck

THIS IS NOT A EASY JOB FOR THE DO IT YOURSELFR. I RECOMMEND A PRO.

The first step in replacing the inner tie rod is to remove the tie rod end. It's basically a three step process, where you start by loosening the jam nut that's used to set the alignment (toe-in or toe-out). That jam nut determines how far up the inner tie rod the tie rod end is fixed. The tie rod end is hollow and threaded, so it can be screwed on or off the inner tie rod. Any procedure for removing a tie rod will start by telling you to count the turns you unscrew the tie rod end, something that I didn't do, and I'll save the explanation for the end:-) After you loosen the jam nut, you remove the cotter pin from the post on the outer tie rod ball joint, and unscrew the nut that holds the ball joint into the tapered fitting on the steering knuckle (video to right). After you pop the outer tie end free of the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the tie rod end. from the inner tie rod, but you need to grip it with something. Inner tie rods normally have some flat surfaces or a splined surface for grabbing with pliers. In this case, I needed two pairs of visegrips and a clamp to hold the visegrips on the inner tie rod from moving in order to get the outer tie rod end broken free and turning easy. That video is below. I happen to own the shop manuals for my Dodge Omni, so I was able to study the procedure for replacing the inner tie rod in detail. I didn't follow it for a couple reason. First, they show my type of power steering rack (Saginaw vs TRW) needs to be removed from the car to change the inner tie rod. That's a lot of extra work, not to mention the fact I buried one of the crossmember bolts in my unibody and flooring repair! So I went with an inner tie rod removal kit from Harbor Freight, manufactured by U.S. General (in Taiwan). The tool is very simple, basically a large steel tub with a snap in opening for a large crows foot insert on one end and a 1/2" socket drive on the other end. The kit is shown in the photo to the lower left (which I need to replace), and a video of the procedure is shown below. The kit wasn't quite right for my car, I had to use an oversized crows foot and the ball joint housing on the inner tie rod was too long, so the flats on the housing were barely held with the crows foot positioned by hand at the very end of the tool. But I got it out.

there are two bolts that connect your inner tie rod to the rack loosen both bolts but only take one out move tie rod down and pop out bushing then replace the new one.Replace bolt and do the same for the other side and then tighten bolts it could be a tight place but very easy job to do

No. Go to Napa, get the bushing repair kit. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Remove the air inlet tube. Should be 2 7/8" bolts retaining the inner tie rod ends. Loosen both. Remove one at a time, replace bushing with kit. Use some synthetic brake grease on the bushings. I recommend Napa sylglide. Replace the bolt, but do not tighten all the way. Do the other the same way. Tightnen both bolts, reinstall the air inlet tube, get vehicle aligned.

I used this website: http://www.allpar.com/fix/intrepid-steering.html It worked perfectly. To add to it, I used a tie rod puller tool rented from Oreilly Auto Parts for only a few bucks, to press the old bushing out of the inner-tie-rod end. Worked very well. Easier than removing the entire tie rod, and hammering it out. However, removing the entire tie rod would make re-assembly easier. If I did it again, I would strongly consider removing the driver side tie rod from the car, then attaching the inner tie rod end 1st. Meaning, attach the passenger side inner tie rod 1st, then the driver side inner tie rod with new bushing, then re-attach the drivers side outer tie rod. That would probably be the easiest way on this 1996 dodge concorde, due to the fuel line that's in the way....

Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.

If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:

1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
compressed.
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.

NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.