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We have a MICS Telys s4500 controller that had a fault on module 3, i checked the F5,6and7 fuses which seemed to be good then put them back and now the controller display wont come on ???

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Acura MDX A/C won't come on

I went to an Acura dealer to buy the transistor for the rear A/C unit. The service advisor told me that the problem with the front A/C was probably due to a defective front transistor / resistor. I bought that part too.

The front transistor is located next to the blower motor under the dash on the passenger's side. It is secured by three or four small bolts. The one on the bottom left is very close to the carpet and the most difficult to get off and put back on.

The rear transistor is located behind the carpeted trim panel on the center console (driver's side). The carpeted trim panel is secured by clips only - there are no screws, so remove it carefully starting at the side near the accellerator pedal. Once the panel has been removed, reach inside a small hole in the metal frame to access the rear transistor. It is removed by twisting it and pulling it out. The hole in the frame is small and you might find pliers helpful.

After replacing both parts, the front and rear A/C are working. Apparently these transistors are common failures. If the A/C is out in your Acura MDX and the fuse checks good, a new transistor will likely solve your problem.

Posted on Oct 01, 2008

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: veh wont start

by looking at the wiring diagram for your truck. the pcm1 fuse only feeds the pcm so most likely it is a grounded wire between the fuse block and pcm. follow the wire harness closely between the two and see if its grounded somewhere. also try disconnecting the pcm and see if the fuse still blows. that would isolate the problem to the wiring. it is highly unlikely that the pcm would cause the problem.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 02 SS Monte Carlo , dash lights have quit working,

this only occured when the ambient light sensor turned on the headlights when it got to dark. if that is happening then check the headlight switch, the one that also dims the interior lights. mine had a burnt connector and fried the circuit board. replaced it and it works good. check for lose wires and connectors in there as well which likely caused the short.

Posted on Feb 18, 2010

ddc3
  • 144 Answers

SOURCE: engine wont start no spark......ignition control

I had a car a couple of years back do this to me, it was the crankshaft sensor. It will not fire at all if it is bad. Luckily the part is really cheap.

Posted on Jul 17, 2010

dcramer531
  • 1654 Answers

SOURCE: Jaguar 2002 X- Type Code P0057

Here are the locations of the fuses and relays. F-31 through f-42 probably are the one you want to look at. These are probably all tied together from looking at your codes. Your mass air flow sensor is also giving you an alarm. If your not finding any blown fuses or bad relays it might very well be the PCM (Power train control module) itself that is going bad. A dealer will have to check that out for you.
Engine compartment fuse box - fuses
Fuse Fuse Rating Colour Circuit

No. Type (amps)

F1 Cartridge 20 Blue Dip beam, High Intensity Discharge (HID) light relay.
F2 Cartridge 50 Red Ignition relay feed.
F3 Cartridge 60 Yellow ABS.
F4 Cartridge 30 Pink Rear window heater/heated mirrors relay.
F5 Cartridge 30 Pink Automatic transmission control module relay.
F6 Cartridge 30 Pink Heater blower relay.
F7 Cartridge 50 Red Power supply to passenger compartment fuse box.
F8 Cartridge 80 Black Blower module.
F9 Cartridge 50 Red Engine management system power relay.
F10 Cartridge 20 Blue Headlight power wash pump relay.
F11 Mini Not used.
F12 Mini Not used.
F13 Mini 30 Green Heated front screen right-hand side.
F14 Mini Not used.
F15 Mini 30 Green Heated front screen left-hand side.
F16 Mini 20 Yellow Left-hand dip beam, day time running lights, autolights.
F17 Mini 20 Yellow Right-hand dip beam, HID lights.
F18 Mini 20 Yellow Throttle motor supply.
F19 Mini 15 Blue Screenwash pump, rain sensing system.
F20 Mini 5 Tan Navigation display.
F21 Mini 15 Blue Side (Parking) lights.
F22 Mini 20 Yellow Accessories relay.
F23 Mini 10 Red Air conditioning compressor clutch.
F24 Mini 15 Blue Door lock power.
F25 Mini 15 Blue Direction indicators (GEM).
F26 Mini 15 Blue Horns.
F27 Mini 10 Red Automatic transmission control module, transit relay.
F28 Mini 15 Blue Ignition switch.
F29 Mini 30 Green Starter motor solenoid.
F30 Mini 30 Green Accessory sockets.
F31 Mini 10 Red Engine management relay coil.
F32 Mini 5 Tan Engine management control.
F33 Not used.
F34 Diode D3 Not used.
F35 Diode D2 Engine management control relay diode.
F36 Mini 10 Red Canister purge valve, airflow meter, throttle motor relay, power wash relay, air conditioning relay.
F37 Mini 15 Blue Engine management system, blower speed controller, road speed sensor (if fitted).
F38 Mini 30 Green Oxygen sensor heaters A.
F39 Mini 5 Tan Variable intake valves.
F40 Mini 15 Blue Automatic transmission control module.
F41 Mini 10 Red Injectors.
F42 Mini 30 Green Oxygen sensor heaters B.


dcramer531_58.jpgPassenger dcramer531_59.jpg

Posted on Jan 23, 2011

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Dsc system fault


THIS IS YOUR DYNAMIC STABILITY CONTROL MODULE ..PLEASE CHECK THE FUSES FOR THE DSC...IF THE FUSE IS GOOD THEN YOU HAVE DCS MODULE FAILURE...

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How can i get my key remote to lock my car it has a new battery plz reply asap. just need to know how to reset it


TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Bulletin Nbr. 831-2429
Date: January 2004
Market: all
Remote control does not work
Cars affected
- 9-3 (9440) 4D M03-M04 within Vehicle Identification Number range 31045482 - 41021353
- 9-3 (9440) CV M04 with column integration module (CIM) 433.92 MHz, within Vehicle Identification Number range 46000001 - 46006859
- 9-3 (9440) CV M04 with ESP and column integration module (CIM) 433.92 MHz, within Vehicle Identification Number range 46000001 - 46006710
- 9-3 (9440) CV M04 with column integration module (CIM) 315 MHz, within Vehicle Identification Number range 46000001 - 46009855
- 9-3 (9440) CV M04 with ESP and column integration module (CIM) 315 MHz1 within Vehicle Identification Number range 46000001 - 46009843
Background
Under certain circumstances the remote control receiver, which is located in the CIM, may cease to function. The software in the column integration module (CIM) must be updated so that the remote control operation achieves full functionality.
In the case of customer complaint the following procedures must be carried out.
Symptom description
The car cannot be locked or unlocked using the remote control.
Procedure
Before any action is taken, check if the deficient functionality of the remote control receiver is due to incorrect software:
^ Check if the fault is due to the loss of synchronisation between the remote control and the car.
- Insert the key into the ignition for at least 2 seconds.
- Does the remote control work?
YES: Updating the software, in accordance with this TSB, does not rectify the fault.
NO: Continue to check as follows
^ Remove fuse F2 from the dashboard electrical centre. Wait for at least 5 seconds.
^ Fit fuse F2.
^ Does the remote control work?
NO: Updating the software, in accordance with this TSB, does not rectify the fault.
YES: Update the software in the CIM.

Jul 21, 2011 | 2003 Saab 9-3

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I put new spark plug and wires ,new battery so what should I do next to make start because it's cold here in chicago


WHEN TROUBLE SHOOT CAR CHECK FOR SPARK AT PLUGS FIRST IF NO.CHECK IGNITION FUSE TO IGNITION COIL OR COILS AND IGNITION MODULE.IF FUSE GOOD CAR NEED SCANNING FOR CRANKSHAFT SENSOR FAULT OR IGNITION MODULE FAULT.IF IGNITION SYSTEM OKAY CHANGE FUEL FILTER IF NOT BEEN CHANGED LONG TIME..CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HEAR FUEL PUMP RUN IN FUEL TANK WHEN YOU TURN IGNITION KEY ON FOR 3 SECONDS.THE FUEL PUMP WILL TURN ON 3 SECONDS THEN TURN OFF.IF YOU HEAR NO FUEL PUMP.CHECK FUSE AND RELAY.IF BOTH GOOD.STILL HAVE CAR CODE SCANNED FIRST.

Jan 24, 2011 | Chevrolet Blazer Cars & Trucks

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2001 Lincoln LS V6. Had the fuel pumps replaced about 3 months ago. Now the power to fuel pump "comes and goes" (I have the back seat out and pump covers off so I can hear). The fuse in the trunk...


The vehicle has one fuel pump and it is controlled by the rear electronic module .
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter the vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine . Under system click on Engine , then under subsystem click on fuel controls . Then click the search button , then click the first blue link . The fourth diagram down . You will see fuel pump relay , rear control module , fuel pump module ! I would check the rear electronic module .

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I recently bought a 96 dodge caravan. The guages are not working. I the fuse is good could not find any disconnected wires. When the ignition is turned on the guages jump. Could the problem be the ignition...


Check and Reseat every fuse you can find, on-by-one. It's amazing how often this does wonderful things. ;)
Make sure your battery is good, and has a good charge and good connections. The gauges are all computer controlled, and computers don't like iffy or dirty power.

But, the most likely culprit is the BCM (Body Control Module), although I've seen this caused by bad solder joints on the gauge cluster connector itself.

This can also be cause by a bad PCM or TCM power/transmision control module), but if the van starts and runs, it's very unlikely.

A quickie test for bad solder joints that works about 3/4 of the time is to simply whack the dashboard above the gauge cluster with the engine running. If the gauges jump, (not just wiggle a bit) it's likely you have bad solder joints.

Try holding down odo trip and reset buttons on the gauges. Turn the key on while holding them down. If nothing happens after 10 seconds, it's probably BCM, but still could be bad solder joints.

If you get 'codes', then there is hope to narrow it down:
110=Cluster mem fault
111=cluster calibration fault
905=no TCM comms
921=odometer fault from BCM
940=no PCM comms
999=end of tests/codes
chec-0 will dim the display
chec-1 will move all gauges through their entire range
chec-2 is odometer light test

When you see chec-3, keep your foot on the brake and move the gear shifter to each gear, give it a second in each position while you watch the display.

Also, if you have a compass/trip computer overhead, I've seen them cause problems. Disconnect that console and try again.

Aug 29, 2010 | 1996 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

My car wont start,you turn the key , and sounds like it's going to start but it just wont' i already take to the mechanic he had the car for about 2 months i get the car back ; he said it was fix and now...


FIRST GET A SPARK TESTER TO SEE IF YOU ARE GETTING SPARK AT SPARK PLUGS.IF NOT CHECK IGNITION MODULE FUSE.IF FUSE GOOD HAVE CAR HOOK UP TO SCANNER LOOK FOR IGNITION MODULE FAULT CRANKSHAFT SENSOR FAULT AND PCM FAULT.IF ALL LOOK GOOD SO FAR.CHECK TO SEE IF FUEL PUMP WORKING.CHECK PUMP FUEL PRESSURE IT SHOULD BE 41 - 47 PSI. IF NOT REPLACE FUEL FILTER STILL LOW REPLACE FUEL PUMP.IF FUEL PUMP NOT WORKING AT ALL CHECK FUEL PUMP FUSE AND RELAY.IF BOTH IS GOOD FUEL PUMP AT FAULT.BUT SCAN TO CHECK FOR PCM FAULT CODES IT CONTROL SPARK AND FUEL SYSTEM.MAKE SURE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES IS GOOD. ALSO CHECK FUEL INJECTORS FUSE ALSO.

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You need to find someone who can pull the codes from the transmission and see what kind of trans fault it is. If there is a fault in the trans the controller will put it into limp in mode which is 2nd gear locked. Won't shift out of 2nd...You need to pull the codes and see if it is internal in the trans or an external sensor-Good Luck

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1 Answer

Yes i have juice to the blower motor, but it dont blow all fuses are good, freon is good


Cadillac 1999 DeVille
If the front blower motor is not running with battery level power to it, you may have bad blower resistors which controls the speed of the motor.. Unfortunately the resistors are built-in the motor. You may have to replace the motor. If you remove the motor, you can recheck it by direct wiring power to it. OR you may have loose wires.
Also check the Heater and A/C Programmer module.

Here's some info I found from another posting.

Red is positive 12 volts coming from fuse of circuit breaker. The black wire is either the ground or the main hot wire going to the blower motor (3 pin connection only), and the gray wire (if is is small in size) is a variable voltage coming from the body control module requesting speed for the blower motor.The blower control module varies voltage on the main wire going to the blower motor, supposedly in accordance with the requested voltage from the body control module. Usually if all fuses are okay and present on the apprpriate wire of the blower control module, the a blower motor that will not run or stays running after the key is turned off is the fault of the blower control module. If the blower control module has failed the the cause must be determined (over amping blower motor) or else new blower control module may fail when powered up.Usually blower control modules have more than three wires. Usual connections are: B+ (battery voltage) GND (chassis or engine ground), two large wires going directly to blower motor (can be any color, but are usually 10 guage in size), and an optional wire that reports voltage level back to the body control module.

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