Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
The ABS motor is controlled by the computer. The function is different for 2 wheel vs 4 wheel ABS. My guess is that you have 2 wheel ABS. Look at the write ups by Chris and Helmet. Basically the computer will compare engine speed and transmission speed to wheel rotation during braking. If very different, it will pulse the braking system to avoid skids and most effectively apply braking pressure.
Posted on May 20, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The ABS light is for the Anti-lock Braking System. The MIL will illuminate if there is a difference in wheel speed sensors signals to the PCM. So you might have a wheel speed sensor that is going out on you. Does the light come on at low speeds, or just higway speeds? You could take the vehicle to a local parts store and have them pull the codes for you and that will tell you which speed sensor is out of whack. Also road grime, dirt and gunk buildup can cause speed sensors to give false readings. Hope tihs helps you out.......
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
the rear one is a single sensor and is located in the top of the rear differential , unplug it and take the retaining bolt out and it pops straight up out of the differential. the front has 1 for each wheel,and is located on the backside of the wheel hub. take the tire off and look on back side of hub it should be the only sensor thare and is anchored with one bolt then just fallow the wire to its disconnect point. this vehicle is known to have problems with the rear sensor so i would replace it first and see if this fixes the problem
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
Sounds like your temperature actuator is not moving or your temp door is broken. On max a-c ,coolant is shut off to your heater core allowing only cold air in.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
Hi,i am from greece and i want bigger front brakes for to my mazda 323c 1.3 cc 16v, mod.95. Can i use from another mazda model and which is that?
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
Disconnect as many of the door switch wiring plugs, and wiring plugs for the seats that you can. Then, drop in a fuse. If it blows, you probably have a wiring issue, not a switch issue. If it doesn't blow immediately, reconnect the doors, and seats one at a time till the fuse does blow. Once it does, you've isolated your problem to a smaller area, and can replace / rewire that component.
If you've disconnected everything, and the fuse still blows, you probably have a wiring issue that will need to be traced. You will need a multimeter that can read ohms. You'll need to isolate different parts of the circuit (probably by unplugging and or cutting a wire in that circuit unfortunately) then use the multimeter to test the ohms from that part of the circuit to NON voltage side of the fuse holder. (If you try to test ohms on a hot circuit you will likely fry your multimeter!). If the meter reads low ohms, there is your short. High ohms (infinity) means there is no circuit, and there is no short. When you hit on something of low ohms, you've isolated the problem to a smaller area, and can keep tracing that wiring back to the fuse box to find your short.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
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