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Dts 600 door closes with remote but does not wana open agaim until I press the PB. Then I cam constantly open and close but the minute I stop for a few seconds it dnt wana open with remote. Pls help

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: BMW remote control problem

I have a e60 525i that I just brought and it has the same problem, the owners manual suggests driving with the key in the ignition for a long time as the batteries are rechargable and may have gone flat, i have tried this and it doesnt seem to work

i also read something about getting water in the aerial about the rear window and that wrecks the receiever. My car isn;t under warranty so not looking forwarding to taking it to bmw

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

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SOURCE: 2006 town and country passanger sliding door problem

I've leased two Town and Country vans over the past 4 years, and actually purchased the latest one after the lease. In both vans the sliding doors, normally the drivers side, reacted teh same way. If the door was closed it would open, stop a one point, and then return to the open position. At times I could get it close. But over time the doors stoped working all together.

It is not due to the switch or the motor. Most cases like this (in in both of mine) it is due to the repetitive use of that door, and the realitive inflexibility of the wire harness. Over time, and with more uses (in my case the driver side sliding door was used alot) the wire in the harness fails. Picture it as a willow branch. One snapped off of a tree it first is green and flexible, and bends pretty well into any form. But over time, with age and repetitive bending, it will break.

The only recourse is a new harness, as the wire/wires are broken somewhere in the harness (the belt chain in the lower track of the door). I was temped to take it apart and try to repair it myself, but as the parts were under warranty (I have the extended 85,000 mile), I opted to have the professionals handle it. The repair without the warranty is under $200 typically (parts and labor). Good luck.

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

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SOURCE: My door locks don't work, and my remote will only open the driver

Check door switch connection under door pad in drivers door. Sounds like the electrical connection that sends power from the main door (drivers side) to other door has failed or wiggled loose.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: 98 Dodge Durango no electrical power

When the armed Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) senses that the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, it enters its power-up mode. In the power-up mode the alarm system remains armed following a battery failure or disconnect. If the VTSS was armed prior to a battery disconnect or failure, the system will have to be actively or passively disarmed after the battery is reconnected. The alarm can be disarmed by locking the vehicle and turning the drivers door lock to the lock (arm) position. Wait a few minutes then unlock (disarm) the drivers door and the vehicle should start.
If the VTSS has been disabled in the high-line Central Timer Module (CTM), the VTSS feature must be re-enabled using the Chrysler DRB scan tool. The clicking you heard was probably from the CTM located behind the glove box.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Apr 28, 2009

  • 5581 Answers

SOURCE: 3rd door on ford f150 will not open

There was something in the paper, maybe a recall on the latch for the 3rd door. There is a clip inside the door that keeps the lockrod in place. You might want to call the dealer about it. I am not sure you can remove the inside panel without having the door open.

Posted on May 31, 2009

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