Question about Isuzu Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
1. Remove battery terminals and secure them away from the battery posts using nylon wire ties.
1a. Fine some comfortable eye glasses (clear or yellow) and keep them on. There are plenty of opportunities to get debris in your eyes during this procedure.
2. Spray "PB Blaster" (loosens bolts) on two bolts that secures alternator.
3. Jack-up vehicle on side to access alternator. Use a jackstand to support.
4. Using a 10mm open-ended wrench, loosen the bolt that swings the alternator. Screwing the bolt "in" or toward the engine will allow play to increase in the alternator belt. Loosen the 12mm bolt slightly next to the 10mm bolt (approximately 1.5" toward engine).
5. Continue to loosen 10mm bolt until there is enough slack in the belt to remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
6. Remove belt. It may be possible to remove belt without removing fan faring. Maybe not. If not, you will need to remove plastic fairing. If you must remove fair, go below fan fairing and disassemble connectors that hold together pieces of fan fairing. Carefully remove.
7. Install alternator fan from above.
8. Check that alternator belt is on all tracks (from below with a flashlight), and slowly tighten.
9. Secure 10mm and 12mm bolts. Recheck tightness.
10. Reassemble battery connection and run vehicle at idle for about 5 minutes. Check belt for proper tension.
11. CAREFULLY check tension of belt. Or disassemble battery connections and re-check belt tension.
12. Reassemble fan fairing (if not already assembled), re-connect battery terminals, and have a nice day. :-)
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
neto 190D: You are asking about a vacuum diaphragm?
I'm going to take a WAG.. Your engine won't shut
down with the key?
If so, he is the way you find out:
In your injection pump, the vacuum diaphragm which kills the engine is the one which has the fitting pointing parallel to the ground.
The vacuum line which serves it is a brown/blue
To check the system, first check for vacuum in the line. Run the engine for a minute or so. Cap off the brown/blue line.
Turn the ignition switch off and then with hose in hand, uncap it and you should hear a hissing sound. If you have a vacuum guage, obviously, use it for the test, you need a minimum of 10 inches to kill it.
To test the pump diaphragm, you can rig a vacuum line to a known vacuum source close to the main "T". Run the engine and with the line connected to the diaphragm, connect it to the good vacuum source, if it kill the engine, the diaphragm is good. If you have a hand vacuum pump it would be more ideal, because you could check the diaphragm for small leaks.
If the diaphragm is bad, it is easy to replace on the pump.
The shutoff diaphragm lists for $86.00
Is my shot in the dark correct?
Even though I am a Nissan Master tech, I also specialize in Mercedes-Benz and specifically Diesels, so if you need help, I'm here. I went through a few Mercedes Schools and have been swinging Iron in Mercedes since the 70's
I might be a little more informative than the public library.
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
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