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Fixing the 2001 Front Left CV Axle Need Torque specs for: lower ball joint, axle nut torque, lug nut torque, caliber bracket mounting nut torque HELP. Please

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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warlock61
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SOURCE: Axle nut torque spec

184 ft/lb

Posted on May 11, 2009

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rtpflh
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SOURCE: my new TRW upper ball joints did not come with

mounting bolt torque would be equal,given bolts are the same diameter.torque main nuts to 50-70 ft lbs.

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

  • 599 Answers

SOURCE: torque specs on replacing cv axle on 05 Pacifica

ok here we go tie rod=55 ft lbs axel nut= 180 ft lbs strut bolts= 65 ft lbs plus 90 degrees

Posted on Jan 07, 2010

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reisdos
  • 1297 Answers

SOURCE: need the torque specs for

hope this helps...

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Posted on May 11, 2010

  • 2963 Answers

SOURCE: I need the axle nut torque specifications

Google Make, Model, year CV Axel nut torque. The spec you cite, is not right, that is the troque of the engine at that speed!

Posted on Mar 04, 2015

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1 Answer

I need the axle nut torque specifications


Google Make, Model, year CV Axel nut torque. The spec you cite, is not right, that is the troque of the engine at that speed!

Mar 04, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i change the front axle on a 2004 impala


You will need a large socket to fit the nut on the end of the CV axle shaft. You will also need a breaker bar to remove this nut. You will need a torque wrench capable of achieving the correct torque when replacing the nut on the replacement shaft. You will need a relatively heavy (3-pound) hammer and a pry bar to remove the axle shaft from the transmission housing. You should break the axle nut loose prior to raising the vehicle off the ground as it is very tight and may not come loose easily once raised. If you use an impact wrench then the need to do this before raising the vehicle is not as great. You need to raise the vehicle on jack stand(s). Remove the wheel from the side you are replacing. Remove the brake caliper and rotor assembly as well. Remove the axle nut. The axle must be pulled free of the hub spline by pushing it out backwards. This is not usually possible without either (1) separating the lower ball joint from the lower control arm, or (2) unbolting the lower control arm assembly from the subframe and pulling it outward and to the side.
Be careful when pushing and pulling on the axle shaft. The outer CV joint is fixed, but the inner joint can be pulled out too far and become separated. This will make removal much more difficult. Once you have freed the outer CV joint from the hub, then you need to use the prybar and hammer to tap the inner joint out of the transaxle. It snaps in place and will take a few attempts to achieve. Be careful if trying to pry on the transaxle housing as it is cast metal and can break easily. Once you have the inner joint free you can remove the shaft. There may be some transmission fluid leak from the seal when you remove the shaft. Insert the new shaft into the transaxle. Push it in to snap it into place. You can pull back about an inch or two to help get the force necessary to pop it in, but again be careful not to overextend the inner joint. Once the inner joint is in place, slide the outer joint back through the hub splines. Reconnect the ball joint/lower control arm. Replace the axle nut (use the one supplied with the new shaft. Torque to proper specifications. Replace the rotor/caliper/wheel.

Dec 26, 2014 | 2004 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

How to remove a CV joint on 1996 Honda Accord


If you have a bad CV joint, it is usually easier and cheaper to replace the axle half-shaft.

loosen lug nuts
Jack up car
insert jack stand
remove wheel.
pry off wheel hub cover or tap it out by rotating brake disk and tapping outward with a punch (or even a screw driver).
This will expose a large axle nut which will usually have a crimp lock.
Look in the center for a part of the nut bent into a groove in the axle.
tap it out so the nut can turn with a punch and hammer.
The nut is on with a lot of torque. It can be removed by having a friend step on the brakes while you loosen it with a breaker bar and socket, or you can use an air-wrench to spin it off.
loosen thew nut until it extends past the end of the axle threads and tap it with a mallot. (this will result in the axle coming loose and moving freely back and forth in the hub)
remove the nut and the washer(s) taking notice of how they go back on.
Now you have to determine if the axle can be compressed enough to come out of the hub without disassembling any of the suspension. Some can - most can't.
Likely next step is to remove the safety cotter pin, and nut from the outer tie-rod end, then loosen it with a "pickle fork" and hammer or air-tool. (this will let the strut assembly swing out far enough to free the axle. On some cars the lower ball joint may have to be removed (this is usually a plate with three bolt/nuts. to get the axle shaft out of the hub.
At this point you have an axle half-shaft loose from the hub, but still firmly attached to the transmission near the inner CV joint.

Look carefully at the inner CV joint. Is there any sign of transmission oil/fluid around it? If so, plan on replacing the inner CV joint seal before you re-assemble. They are cheap, so it does not hurt to replace it anyway.

You have to get something behind the inner CV joint housing and pop the half shaft out of the transmission. There is a spring-clip around the inner half-shaft splines. When you pop the shaft out, it compresses the spring clip and lets it pop out of the retaining groove it rides in.
I usually try to get something like a piece of steel plumbing pipe against the back of the inner CV housing and them pop it good with a heavy hammer. One or two pops usually gets it to slide out, and then be prepared for a mess as transmission oil runs out the axle hole.

Now you have removed the axle half-shaft. You can go further and remove/replace the CV joints on the axle, but it is seldom worth it. A new half-shaft with both CV joints and new boots already installed is usually about the same price as one CV joint and new boots, and they are a real pain and will take a lot of time and patience to replace.

Reverse for installation.
Pop new shaft into transmission (you can usually do this by hand with a good push.
Re-insert into hub and leave loose.
re-attach any suspension parts, torque to proper setting, and re-install new cotter pins (never reuse the old ones).

Replace the washers over the axle
Install the axle nut.
**** Torque to specification - DO NOT GUESS. ***
Use punch to lock nut into axle groove (new axle should come with new axle nut)
Tap hub cover back on (a very thin coat of grease helps)
re-install wheel and loosely tighten lug nuts.
jack up car - remove jack stand and lower car.
Torque lug nuts (this is also important - improper lug nut torque can lead to a warped disk brake hub or worse)
Install hub cap if so equipped.

Done.


The axle half-shaft is held on one side by a large axle-nut and on the transmission side by a spring-clip that rides in a groove (it just pops in and out).

The whole job can be done in an hour or so if you have the proper tools, but do not attempt this if you don't have a big socket for the axle nut and a breaker bar. A torqu wrench capable of reading up to 200 ft lbs and one that can accurately set the torque on any suspension pieces you need to loosen.

If you don't need to loosen or remove any suspension you need not worry about alignment afterwards, and if you only need to loosen a tie rod end, you should still be fine as long as you don't change any of the "length adjusting" threads.

If you do need to separate a tie-rod end you will need the tool for that (pickle fork and heavy hammer).

If you have to remove or loosen any of the things that keep your wheels aligned you will need an alignment after you finish, but the job can usually be done while avoiding this.

Autozone will loan you most of the tools you need if you don't have them.

If you have never done this, I highly recommend you search You Tube for some videos and watch them first. This really is not hard.

Oct 19, 2014 | 1996 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Torque specs for 2008 ford ranger 4x2 front axle


Torque Specifications

Description Nm lb-ft Axle-to-frame bolt 66 49 Axle damper-to-frame bolt 34 25 Brake caliper guide pin bolt 33 24 Differential bearing cap bolt 61 45 Differential housing cover bolt 29 21 Ring gear bolt 122 90 Tie-rod nut 91 67 U-joint spider retainer bolt 19 14 Upper ball joint pinch bolt 48 35

Sep 18, 2014 | 2008 Ford Ranger 2WD

2 Answers

Cv joint popping out right front


The CV Joint would have to come out, take the boot out. The cv joing is probably coming out of the end. There is like a washer that holds it in place and is possible that is out of place.
I hope this helps!

Mar 26, 2013 | 2003 Ford Escape

1 Answer

I need to know the torque-specs on the bolts for the CV shaft on a 1993 90 s. I need both the specs for the 6 bolts that hold the cv shaft to the transmission, as well as the 1 big outer-spindle...


Axle shaft bolt should be torqued to 147 Ft Lbs plus 1/4 turn.

The six CV joint bolts should be 59 Ft Lbs.

Ball joint nut should be 48 Ft Lbs

Hope this helps.

Sep 08, 2011 | 1993 Audi 90

1 Answer

Replace front ball joints on jeep


Hello there,
To replace the front ball joint on your jeep. You will be needing these instruments, Lug wrench Jack, Jack stands, Wheel chocks, Socket set, Wrench set, Needle-nosed pliers, Hub puller, Ball joint separator, Hammer, Ball joint press, Torque wrench, then, Please follow the steps below:
Loosen the lug nuts on your Cherokee's front tires, using the lug wrench. Jack up the front end of the vehicle and brace it with jack stands. Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires to prevent rolling. Back the lugs off the lug nuts, and remove both front tires from your Cherokee.
Remove the bolts behind the calipers. Lift the calipers off the hubs and set them on a support so they do not stretch the rubber lines.
Pull straight out on the brake rotor to remove it from the wheel studs.
Remove the cotter pin from the end of the axle shaft that extends through the hub. This is best done with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Remove the drive nut from the axle shaft, and set it off to the side.
Remove the three bolts retaining the hub. These 12-point bolts are on the rear of the assembly.
Separate the hub assembly from the knuckle; a hub puller will make this easier.
Remove the cotter pins from the ball joints, using the needle-nosed pliers. You must detach the pins from both the upper and lower ball joints. Use a socket and ratchet to remove the nuts at the bottom of each ball joint.
Insert a ball joint separator between the knuckle and the ball joint. A hammer can be a big help to drive the separator into place and force the knuckle and ball joint apart.
Use a ball joint press to remove the joints. The ball joint press will force the upper and lower ball joints out. Follow the instructions included with your press.
Insert the new joints, using the ball joint press. You must reverse the motion of the press this time, pressing down on the upper joint and up on the lower joint. Be sure that the joints are completely in place within the knuckle.
Reinstall the steering knuckle onto the new ball joints, and thread the nuts onto the bottom of the joint. Check your manufacturer's specifications for the torque requirements for the nuts. Insert the cotter pins, and bend them down around the nut.
Reassemble the hub and axle around the knuckle. When replacing the three bolts, torque them to your manufacturer's specification.
Place the brake assembly back into position, both rotor and caliper. Replace the two bolts you removed on the caliper. Torque the bolts to your manufacturer's specification. Place the wheel back on the Cherokee, and tighten the lug nuts appropriately. With the wheel secured, lower the vehicle back to the ground.
Hope this was helpful to you. Goodluck Elect_Comp

Sep 03, 2011 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????


Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

How do you remove a front axle


Hello
Welcome!
  • The replacement of the CV axle is much easier with the vehicle lifted on a suspension lift. With the minivan in neutral and the steering wheel unlocked, removal of the front tire and then caliper assembly will be required. Remove the entire caliper assembly with pads intact to save a step. Be sure to support the caliper assembly to the coil spring so it does not incur damage to the rubber brake hose.

    The disconnection of the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end will also be required to allow free movement of the steering knuckle. For Caravans that employ speed sensors, remove the wire harness from the knuckle connection as well.

    Remove the cotter pin and castle-headed nut lock from the CV spindle. Next, remove the spring washer and the hub nut. This will require a large socket and breaker bar or a pneumatic gun. To separate the CV axle spindle from the steering knuckle, thread the hub nut back onto the spindle so it's exposing a few threads at the top. Tap on the nut with a large rubber mallet until the splines of the spindle separate from the adjoining knuckle.

    At this point, it's wise to place a drain bucket beneath the transaxle side of the CV joint connection to catch trickling transaxle fluid that will leak out once the connection of the axle to transmission is separated.

    Because the tie rod end and ball joint connections have been separated, you'll be able to manipulate the knuckle from the CV axle spindle. This requires determination and having an assistant would be helpful.

    Once the outer spindle connection of the CV axle is free from the knuckle, you'll need a large pry bar to disengage the inner tri-pot joint out of the transaxle and remove the CV axle from the transmission. This is where some fluid will leak into the drain bucket.
  • To install the new axle, start with the inner connection to the transaxle so that the inner joint circlip seats in the transaxle side gear. An audible click of the circlip should be heard and then test the connection by trying to pull out on the axle by hand. There will be a little free-play in the axle, but if the circlip is seated, you will not be able to disconnect the axle without the aide of the pry bar.

    Next, align the splines of the outer CV axle spindle to the grooves in the steering knuckle. Do not force this connection. Rotate the axle by hand until the splines align properly to the groove. Reconnect the remaining components by reversing the procedure.

    Be sure to torque the hub nut, outer tie rod end nut and ball joint retaining nut to the proper torque specifications of your specific year Caravan. Since the Caravan has been around for quite a while and has employed different engine sizes, there may be a slight variance in the torque specs. A quality repair manual for the specific year and design of your Caravan will display the correct torque specs.

    Last, replace the wheel and then check and adjust the level of the transaxle fluid. Although only a little may have trickled out by the disconnection, the fluid should be topped off to capacity.

  • Let me know if i can help more!

    Jul 17, 2010 | 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan

    2 Answers

    Front Hub Bearing Torque specs to complete replacement


    THE LUG NUT TORQUE SPEC - 140FT/LBS\
    CALIPER MOUNT - 80FT/LBS
    CALIPER BRACKET 129FT/LBS
    AXLE NUT 177FT/LBS

    Apr 24, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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