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1996 Nissan pickup, NOT start, changed clutch inhibit relay, started 3 times then again nothing, not even a click. What is problem

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If the switch was not adjusted correctly, it was damaged when you pressed the clutch. Try a jumper at switch. When a jumper is installed a Runaway condition exist, place truck in neutral and apply handbrake.

Posted on May 16, 2017

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hi..
the problem seems to be with the realy which clicks when you try to start. when you start this relay sends the signal to the starting motor and rotates the flywheel. due to the damage of this relay no signal is going. so please change the relay and try it wil work.


if u feel my answer is useful to you please vote me

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I had the exact same problem, I replaced the starter, it worked a couple more times and then nothing. I completely checked the entire starting/ignition circuit and found a problem in the clutch inhibitor relay circuit. When I jumped the relay the truck started. Tracing the circuit back to the clutch switch I found that the little blue plastic landing on the clutch pedal itself had a hole in it where the clutch switch would fit right into it. Thus when you depressed the clutch the system would not see the switch close, thereby not energizing the clutch inhibitor relay allowing the truck to start. Long story short, my problem and maybe yours was a $1.50 piece of plastic on the clutch pedal landing.

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I just fixed my exact same problem. Everyone told me the starter was bad. I knew it had to be electrical because there was no noise when I tried to start the engine. Here's a good way to check to be sure your starter is not the problem. With your key removed from the ignition, the truck in neutral, and the parking brake applied, look under the hood and over the wheel well on the passenger side you'll see a long (about 6-8 inches) black box. This has a removable cover. Take it off and you'll see a bank or relays. First, swap out a relay from another spot on the relay block with the relay in the Clutch inhibit relay spot. The relay location should be marked on the top of the plastic cover. If your truck starts, then you know you have a bad relay. If it still doesn't start, remove the relay from the clutch inhibit socket. Next, take a piece of wiring, about 1 foot will do, and touch one end to the positive post on the battery and the other end of the wire to the socket. If you are looking down at the socket, you'll see 4 prong recepticles. The one to the right and closest to you should be the one you touch with the wire, if the engine doesn't crank, then try the other prong just above it. If the starter makes no effort to spin, then the starter is bad. If it does spin, then you have an open circuit somewhere between your battery to your clutch switch, ignition switch, back to your clutch relay. Rather than try to open harnesses and trace the wire, I just installed a push button and mounted it next to by fuse box below the steering wheel. A wire from the positive post to the button and back to the clutch relay socket took care of my problem.

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I had the same problem. If it it is a straight drive there is a switch on the clutch pedal. It can be depressed far enough to disengage the clutch and still not activate the switch. You can bypass directly from the positive termainal on the battery to the wire going to the starter to test. However, if you leave that connected the clutch will activate the starter every time you depress it all the way. I replaced the relay module after determining that everything else was working. No problems since. (it is a pain to remove that starter -- but I guess you know that now)

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