Question about Chrysler Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Try removing the alarm system relay, some car alarm has also a fuse on the alarm that you can remove.
Many car alarms unlock by inserting and turning car key while you connect the battery.
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
The roatating knob that turns on the headlight pulls out to turn on the fog lights, but only pulls out when the headlights are on,
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
SOURCE: i drive a vw jetta
I had the same symptoms and found I had suffered from turbo failure and the final cost at the dealer was $3500, last VW I will ever own. I hope this isn't your trouble too, good luck
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
you need to loosen the clamp on the throttle body and unplug the map sensor then there are two clips on the other end pull that out and you should be able to pull the filter out you don't need to take the box off.
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
I have a '95 Cirrus LX 2.5L V6 (with 150k miles) that has been having the same problem -- it just shuts off unexpectedly while driving and then fails to start right afterward. No "Check Engine" light beforehand and no fault codes were stored. After setting for a while, the car would eventually start again. Initially this problem happened only seldomly but over several months it gradually became more frequent.
After doing a lot of research on the Internet and troubleshooting with the Haynes manual, the prime suspects were as follows:
1) Crankshaft Position Sensor (mounted onto the engine block under the distributor). I replaced this and the car started but it didn't last long before it abruptly quit again. This time, whatever was degrading finally broke for good; the car would no longer start even after sitting for a couple days.
2) Camshaft Position sensor and/or ignition coil -- (both are in the distributor on the 95 Cirrus LX 2.5L V6). I replaced the distributor (cost about $225). The car still would not start, though!
Using the electrical diagrams in the Haynes manual, I began troubleshooting and found that all of the top three mentioned items use the same +8VDC from pin 44 of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). I was only reading +4.88VDC -- way too low for for the two 'Hall Effect' solid-state sensors to work properly.
I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars buying a new PCM if I wasn't absolutely sure it was the problem so I took out my PCM (it's up front between the fuse box and the air cleaner on the driver's side and can be removed fairly easily). Since this is a single-board electronic device, being an electronics technician, I tried an old trick and froze the PCM for more than 12 hours so the circuit board and solder joints would contract and make a better connection. I then reinstalled the PCM and tried starting the engine -- and it fired right up and ran smoothly.
So, the PCM (P/N PO4606064) ended up being my problem.
NOTE: There are two replacement models of PCM for this car. One model is for cars with "Firm Feel Suspension (FFS)" and another model for those without; mine DOES NOT HAVE FFS. Make sure you get the correct one.
Also, on one of the threads on the Internet for another person having this same problem, a Master Mechanic stated that 'Firm Feel Suspension (FFS)' was the same thing as "Speed Sensitive (power-assisted) Steering (SSS)". I confirmed with the Chrysler experts that THIS IS NOT THE CASE! They are separate things -- according to my VIN, my car does not have FFS but it has SSS.
Posted on Aug 19, 2010
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