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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's nearly impossible unless you have a good air compressor and a powerful 1/2" or larger drive impact gun.The reason is you have to remove the cv axle nut and axle out of the way before removing the bearing and hub.The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove.The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire.Remove axle retaining nut.Remove balljoint nut and bolt,pry down on lower control arm,and disengage balljoint and lower arm from spindle.Now the axle can be released from the hub,but leave the other end of the axle in the trans,just set off to the side out of the way.At this point,there are two ways to change the bearing.The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing.Remove the entire spindle assembly from the suspension strut,OR leave the spindle attached to the strut,and remove the bearing and hub from the spindle.Some guys swear by taking the spindle to a press,and pressing the bearing assembly out with a bottle jack.I just use a bushing driver set,and ball peen hammer,and remove the hub from the bearing...then remove the snap ring retaing the bearing in the spindle,then drive the bearing out of the spindle with the hammer and drivers.There you have it.Reverse procedure for reassembly
Posted on Jul 11, 2008
If they are sealed bearings, you will need a press to get them out. If they are bolt in, just remove the brake pads/rotors, then the axle nut, then the bolts holding the wheel bearing in. Install in reverse order.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
A Front Wheel Drive Vehicle Can Have Two Types Of Rear Wheel Bearings: Serviceable Bearings, Or Nonserviceable, Sealed Bearings. When Sealed Bearings Fail, The Bolts Holding The Bearing And Hub To The Axel Or Control Arm Must Be Removed. When Installing The New Bearing Assembly, Torque The Bolts To Specifications.Some Manufacturers require The Use Of New Fasteners When Rear Bearings And Hubs Are Replaced.
When A Serviceable Wheel Bearing Is Used, The Bearing Can Be Disassembled And Packed With Grease.It Is Serviced Like A Front Wheel Bearing On A Rear-wheel-Drive-Car.
Posted on Apr 09, 2010
I have a 2002 Escape and have changed my bearings. The 2006 is the same. The front wheel bearings on the Escape are simple cartridge bearings, or Gen1 bearings, that are pressed onto the hub and knuckle. They are not so simple to replace. Unless you have the experience and tools, you'll need to take it to the dealer or a shop.
You will need a press and the correct press tools.
The knuckle/hub assembly needs to be removed from the vehicle.
Here's the short version:
Remove the tire/wheel.
Remove the brake caliper w/ bracket.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Remove axle nut and press the axle inwards, until loose. (sometimes easy, usual needs special tool).
Remove the strut bolts, tie rod, and the lower ball joint from the knuckle/hub assembly. Each of these connections can have it's issues.
Press the hub out of the assembly. One half of the inner race will be stuck on the hub. Use a bearing splitter to remove that half.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing from the knuckle.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only!
Make sure the dust sheild is still in place.
Press the hub into the bearing. The bearing must be supported on the inner race only!
The point is that you must not press thru the balls in the bearing. That can cause the bearing to get brinnelled.... not good.
Reassemble the knuckle on the vehicle in reverse order. I like to put a little grease on the axle spline. The axle spline has a little helix on it... about half a degree. It's supposed to be a tight fit. The torque on the axle nut is 300Nm (about 220ft-lbs?). This torque is very, very important. It is needed to keep the bearing together and at the correct preload, so use a big torque wrench.
...or you can take it to the dealer.
Good luck. Here are some pictures that may help illustrate the difficulty:
Posted on Jan 02, 2011
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