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U have an intermittent electrical connection causing the hassle. Check and clean all wiring junctions, etc. Also work the connections by sliding them in and out many times to remove any oxidation. U have to remember that a car's electrical system is low voltage and the slightest bit of corrosion can screw things up - example is dirty battery terminal wires with a new battery. Car will not crank but clean the terminals and away you go!!!!!!!!!!!!
Your abs and traction control lights should only come on when you start to slide while breaking(ABS), and when your wheels spin in place when excelerating(TC). If those 2 things don't happen, which with some people they never do, you should never see the lights come on. Only when those mechanisms are in use do the lights come on. And they will always flicker as that is what abs and tc are, intermitant surges to break up the constant. ABS does this for obvious reasons...anti lock break, so when you slide, the abs "taps" the breaks in short bursts so they don't lock up. TC "taps" the exclelrator when it slips. Those "taps" are what trigger the lights on your dash, which is why they flicker and don't stay on.
Remove the brake pads by removing the slide pin bolts where the piston assembly attaches to the caliper mounting bracket. The slide pin bolts are usually a 12 or 14mm bolt. Once the piston assembly is free slide the old brake pads out.
Compress the piston back into the caliper by using a large pair of channel lock pliers or a c-clamp. If you don't do this, you won't be able to get the new pads on.
Before you put the new pads on, replace the rotor.
Remove the two bolts for the caliper mounting bracket. They are in the back and are bigger than the slide pin bolts. Usually a 17 or 19mm bolt.
Pull off the caliper mounting bracket.
At this point the old rotor should slide right off. If it doesn't slide right off, look for a screw in the center of the rotor, some cars will have a screw there to hold the rotor on. If there's no screw and it still won't come off, try tapping it with a hammer. If you're replacing the rotor, don't be shy.
Put the new rotor on. Make sure to clean off any grease with brake cleaner that may be on the braking surface from packaging.
Put the caliper mounting bracket back on.
Put the new brake pads on. Make sure to use some anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads.
Put the caliper assembly back on with the slide pins. Grease up the slide pins as well.
Put the wheels back on.
Make sure to pump your brakes 10 - 15 times before you drive off. Because you compressed the piston back into the caliper, the piston will not be contacting the brake pads unless you pump the brakes.
if both wheels have this problem check the flex brake hose that comes from the frame to the rear axle,if only one wheel has the problem it could be the caliper or that wheels flex hose,also check the slides on the caliper or the caliper bracket the brake pads have to be able to move after pressure is released,in most cases the slides freeze up causing one brake pad to constantly apply pressure.and there for heating up the rotor one other thing is your emergency brake cable hanging up.
If this has the 1 ton style axles; in that the axle is removed by removing 6 or so bolts at the outboard end and the axle slides out, you have to pull the axle and then the internal retainer nut and the drum/hub assembly should slide off the axle.
Make sure you have some silicone for the axle end when you reassemble it.