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Is that static pressure with key on, engine off? Or engine running pressure? Both should be near 60, usually key on, engine off pressure will be about 3 or 4 psi higher.
If it runs good after starting, the injector pulse must be good. No reason why starting and running pulse should be different. Only difference is when running, fuel pump power is kept on by the oil pressure switch, whereas in starting, the fuel pump relay keeps the pump on. Very unusual, let us know. Measure voltage at one of the injector's power wire with key on. It should be battery voltage or very close.
I think you pulled the code incorrectly, or are reading it wrong. To get code:
1. Jump pins 4 & 9 on OD2 connector. 2. Turn key 2 clicks. 3. ABS light should blink to give you code. (long blinks for first digit, short ones for second. Example: One long blink and three short blinks would be 13). Honda ABS trouble codes list : 11= Right front wheel sensor (open/short to body ground/short to power) 12= Faulty right front wheel sensor pulse signal 13= Left front wheel sensor (open/short to body ground/short to power) 14= Faulty left front wheel sensor pulse signal 15= Right rear wheel sensor (open/short to body ground/short to power) 16= Faulty right rear wheel sensor pulse signal 17= Left rear wheel sensor (open/short to body ground/short to power) 18= Faulty left rear wheel sensor pulse signal 21= Continous Operation (chipped pulser) 31-38 are all the same: "solenoid" 51= Motor lock 52= Motor stuck off 53= Motor stuck on 54= Main realy stuck off 61= Ignition voltage 81= CPU (central processing unit)
No 4X4 switch on the instrument panel ?
Automatic Transfer Case
The single speed automatic transfer case system shifts automatically from rear wheel drive to four wheel drive when the transfer case shift control module (TCSCM) senses the difference in rotation speed of the front propeller shaft and the rear propeller shaft . Two vehicle speed sensors, one located at the rear output shaft area of the transfer case, and the other, located at the front output shaft area of the transfer case, send front and rear propeller shaft rotation speed information to the TCSCM.
When the front and rear output shaft rotations remain the same, the TCSCM sends pulse width modulation signals to the encoder/motor to keep the transfer case in rear wheel drive. When the front and rear output shafts rotations are different, the shift control module sends pulse width modulation signals to the encoder/motor to engage the transfer case into four wheel drive.
The system will automatically transfer a percentage of torque to either the front or rear axles as required to stop all wheel slip. When the front and rear output shafts rotations return to the same speed rotation, the shift control module sends pulse width modulation signals to the encoder/motor to position the transfer case back into rear wheel drive.
When the transfer case is engaged into four wheel drive, a lamp indicator on the instrument cluster will light. The automatic transfer case system is completely automated, no transfer case control button switching system is required.
Do you know what DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's are ?
Auto part stores can't read these , your best bet take it to a qualified repair shop . One that has the knowledge an diagnostic equipment .
DTC C0300 Rear Speed Sensor Malfunction
DTC C0305 Front Speed Sensor Malfunction
DTC C0308 Motor A/B Circuit Low
DTC C0309 Motor A/B Circuit High
DTC C0310 Motor A/B Circuit Open
DTC C0315 Motor Ground Circuit Open
DTC C0374 General System Malfunction
DTC C0376 Front/Rear Shaft Speed Mismatch
DTC C0550 ECU Malfunction
DTC C0611 VIN Information Error
DTC C0895 Device Voltage Malfunction
Without proper factory service an repair info. an diagnostic tools
If it isn't pulsing right, maybe it is staying on all that time -and spraying fuel like crazy into your cylinders! Come on, Joel, a weak spark and injectors not pulsing right? Get a different ecm and plug it in. Then you can learn the circuits on your old unit and fix it in your spare time.
sounds like u got no injector pulse comin from ecm.we need to pull ecm codes an review them ,possible camshaft sensors faulty they usually provide reference pulses to ecm for injector firing or pulse.without this pulse ur injectors will never open up to let fuel enter combustion chamber. one way of checking pulse is to connect a noid light(small light bulb that plugs in injector pigtail to chek for power to injector and ur pulsing ground coming from ecm to injector) an test for a blinking light while cranking engine.
Open your hood and look for a fitting on your fuel line that resembles a tire fill valve. Depress this with the ignition switch off, and if there is air in your line you will smell gas and hear a slight hiss. Now turn the key to the on position and listen for the fuel pump to hum with your door open. If you hear nothing, you have no power to the pump, or it has already pressured up and is still passing air through the injectors. Also you ,may try depressing the same valve with the key on and see if fuel flows out. Be careful to stand clear so you dont get sprayed.
Fuel Pump Relay Circuit...
There is an Oil pressure switch in this circuit that disallows the relay to complete the power supply to the fuel pump. It is for safety purposes , it senses engine oil pressure upon cranking of the engine and then completes the ground circuit to close the relay sending voltage to the fuel pump at start up, and also functions as an engine kill if you loose oil pressure opening the ground circuit which in turn opens the contacts in the relay shutting off the power to the fuel pump.... Invest in a vehicle specific repair manual with wire diagrams... hope this helps..
Pull one of the plug wires and rest it where a chassis ground is near and then look for spark.
If there is none, the coil or 'power pack' may be bad or the pulse pickup in the distributor has failed,
If it is the former, you must have an ohmmeter at least and measure at the spark output lead or contact to any other contact you find and it should be between 7,000 and ~12,000 Ohms.
On the primary side you need at least one contact and a case ground; this should measure close to nothing; that is, about the same as shorting the meter leads together.
Chekcing the pulse pickup is tougher since they can vary a bunch but shouldn't be less than ~ 1,000 Ohms and in no case infinite (off the highest scale).
Things not likely are sparkplugs and the sparkplug wires; eithr of these would only affect one or two cylinders, not all.
If you smell gasoline, try pushing the accelerator slowly to the floor and keep it there while you crank the engine.
Sometimes, the plugs get wet and will then not fire and allowing maximum air to enter the engine and not pumping the gas pedal, will dry them and allow the engine to start again.