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Hydraulic issues jd 4100 compact tractor. changed hydraulic fluid filter and cleaned screen. checked pump pressure @ 600 psi should be 1600 psi removed hyd pump and inspected looks good.

Changed lift cylinders on loader.

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: This car is unsolve able ???????

Hi, This Might have nothing to do with your problem, but you have nothing to loose by the sounds of it, the breather pipe from the bottom of the sump (behind the starter motor) to the top of the rocker box, mine was clogged up with slug like greese causing sencer problems and giving false information to the computer. (running rought) you got nothink to loose, try it.


Posted on Aug 29, 2008

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SOURCE: low fuel pressure 95 volvo 940 turbo

fuel pump check valve doesn't cause pressure loss, just hard starting cold, the check valve is part of the fuel pump, so to replace the valve u must replace the pump. do not use anything but the orig style pump, here is the part number from THE OE PUMP MAKER AT
DELPHI Part # FE0071 PRICE $124.99

Posted on May 05, 2009

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SOURCE: 1987 chevy s10 2.5l tbi will not start. changed

That eliminates the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. Have you checked the fuel injector itself for an open winding or stuck valve plunger? There should not be a steady 12 volts to the injector--if good injector, it would be spraying fuel steadily into the throttle body. But at least the engine should try to run if poorly. Take the injector out, dry it off with air, and intermittently apply 12 volts to one terminal while grounding the other. You should hear a click from inside every time you touch 12 volts. If not, replace it. If it does, it may be plugged with debris. Try blowing through it in reverse with compressed air.

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

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SOURCE: Honda s2000, 2001 loose of

Sounds like an ignition component failure check for proper resistance through primary and secondary ignition coil windings, refer to service repair manual for exact specs, also the ignitor magnetic pick up may be not up to snuff, the only other ignition component to replace or check is the ignition module and/or plug wires themselves, sometimes when extreme demand is put on the ignition system the plug wires must be high quality and completely isolated from one another. Spark plug wires when routing cannot come in contact with one another in the slightest proximity.

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

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SOURCE: 95 s10 blazer 4.3

Your blazer has to have 55 psi or better to start and starting fluild is possible to flood the plugs now their too wet to fire. Sit awhile and they should dry on thier own. The injectores won't past fuel below about 40 PSI while cranking the voltage to the pump or the pump ground is going away (starters not grounded good enought and the ground goes positive as the car cranks. Put jumper cables from another running car and coonect them right at the starter ( at least the ground, connect it right o the case of the starter, Pos/ can be connected at the battery). sure your battery may be toast and still crank a good starter but the voltage below 10 while cranking may not close the fuel pump relay al or the ingtion module. I've had this problem and sometimes I've found the ingtion module bad and I had it tested at the store and they said it was good but as I sent it in to be tested they sent a new one anyway and the new module would run it and the tested good old one won't start the car. BUT. Everytime it goes back to the quaily of the fuel pump and I've bought a lot of bad ones for GM products that were made by Master and Airtex. I've never had a problem with a Delphi. As long as the crank voltage is good jump it to make sure and the pump wire while cranking is more than 11 volts and it still has less than 55 PSI you take the pump back get another one or demand the delphi, and if they want you to put in another aixtex ask them to pay you to put it in. Bet you'll get the Delphi. The return level is high on the Airtex and Master pumps is high and the parts guy your buying from knowns this unless he's still wet behind the ears, and plain just does'nt know. Orginal equipment in this area keeps the comebacks away and I'm a pro. unless the customer makes me put in the junk pump I don't even give them a choice.

Posted on Sep 23, 2010

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2002 Dodge Dakota v-6 won't start the battery so good the starter is good it turns over and cranks but nothing happens I tried starter fluid in the carb.

Here are the usual suspects:
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I've got a ford 1910 tractor with aerated

that would be a good guess
also low oil in the reservor

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Wont start unless I spray starting fluid into air cleaner. run great after that but if you turn it off you have to use starting fluid again . have put new wires plugs rotor cap distb. capand K&N...

A poor spray pattern in the injectors can cause starting issues. Have you tried a good (read not really cheap) fuel injector cleaner like Chevron Techron or Valvoline Synpower fuel system cleaner? A weak ignition system (worn spark plugs, leaking wires) can cause starting issues. You mentioned that it has a K&N filter on it. These filters use an oil in a cotton media to filter out dirt. Sometimes that oil can get out of the filter and contaminate the mass air-flow sensor. Follow the air tube after the filter box and you'll find a sensor in the tube with several wires running from it. It is made from aluminum and the wire housing is plastic. Remove it from the tube and clean it with a mass air-flow sensor cleaner. You HAVE to use a mass air-flow sensor cleaner specifically made for mass air sensors. Don't use anything else like carb, brake, or throttle body cleaner. Those cleaners will leave a residue on the sensor and just cause you more issues.

As for your fuel pressure, the system pressure with the key on, engine off is 60-66 psi. Do you really think you could visually tell the difference between 60 psi and 40 psi? I know I couldn't. You'll have to use a fuel pressure gauge to verify the pressure. For my money, I think your pressure is low. But, cleaning the MAF is much easier then putting a tester in, and it wouldn't hurt, so I would do that first.

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My clutch is not angaging need to see how can i bleed

Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa). NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.
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  2. To bleed the system perform the following:
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    4. Release the clutch pedal.
    5. Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
  3. Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.
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Aug 03, 2010 | 1998 Audi A4

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2008 tahoe oil pressure is at 20 psi on start up and then drops to 5 psi at idle after engine warms up also will go to 20 psi at 2000 rpm and drops back to 5 psi at idle

If you hear any knocking or ticking when the pressure is reading low, do not drive it 'till you have it diagnosed.
If the engine isn't noisy, you may have a pressure sending unit going bad. I'd definitely put a mechanical gauge on there just to read the actual pressure. If it is low, you may have some debris on the pump pickup screen that is obstructing oil flow Normally if it wasn't as low as yours is, I'd use an additive to dissolve the gunk but at 5psi you may do damage before the screen is clean enough so I'd recommend you remove the pan. If the mechanical gauge reads normal, replace the sender and don't bother with the remainder of what I am going to say.
If you remove the pan and find nothing on the screen, check the engine bearings for wear. If worn the correct way to repair that is to remove the engine as debris often will remain in the internal passageways and return to damage anything you put in there. Pump replacement is only necessary when you have bearing damage. Pumps do not generally fail unless they are contaminated. It will not hurt to replace one if the screen is obstructed as some debris can enter the pump and lower its pressure capacity somewhat but if the screen isn't blocked, do not blame the pump for the low will be wasting your time and $ changing it.
Good luck...any further questions, just ask!

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