Question about 1999 Lincoln Navigator
Truck ran without oil, suddenly stopped, towed home. Changed oil filter and replaced oil. Starts, but make a loud tapping noise. Spark plugs seems to be bad.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Normal Maintenance Details
90,000 Miles (144,000 Kilometers) : All Applicable Models
PERFORMED OPERATION COMPONENT
INSPECT BALL JOINTS
INSPECT BRAKE SYSTEM
Inspect brake pads, shoes, rotors, drums, brake lines & hoses.
INSPECT COOLING SYSTEM HOSES & CLAMPS
INSPECT DISC BRAKE PADS & ROTORS
INSPECT DRIVESHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT U JOINTS
INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM AND HEAT SHIELDS
INSPECT PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM
INSPECT STEERING LINKAGE
INSPECT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS
LUBRICATE DRIVESHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT U JOINTS
LUBRICATE STEERING LINKAGE
REPLACE AIR CLEANER/ELEMENT
REPLACE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
REPLACE CABIN AIR FILTER
REPLACE CLIMATE-CONTROLLED SEAT FILTERS
REPLACE ENGINE OIL
REPLACE ENGINE OIL FILTER
REPLACE FUEL FILTER
90,000 Miles (144,000 Kilometers) : RWD
PERFORMED OPERATION COMPONENT
LUBRICATE BALL JOINTS
2000 Lincoln Navigator
...sorry if not too readable
Posted on Jun 13, 2008
I had experienced the same problem with my 93 TC. I'll try to make it short. Replace the Idle Control Valve. Cost me $50 at AutoZone. It has a electronic plunger that has a rubber o ring on the end of it. It separates two air chambers inside the valve. When the rubber gets old and the plunger is suppose to cut off the air coming in from one chamber to the other, the air gets sucked between the chambers across the old rubber causing the humming noise. That is also why the engines revs up and down and wont idle right. It is located between the firewall and the back of the motor just to the left (drivers side) of the throttle control assembly. When you look up on the internet on how to replace it, it will tell you to remove all the housing surrounding the wiper blade control arms and assembly so that you can access it. If you take your time, just remove some of the hoses and wires connected around it and you can access it without removing all that ****. Only has two screws to it that point up and can be reached with a ratchet and extension. Car runs great now and finally got rid of that noise.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
SOURCE: Loud buzzing noise
From the sounds of it, it's simply your air ride's compressor. If you're not aware that your vehicle has air ride suspension, read up on the user's manual or look on the web. When you start your vehicle and shift into drive or reverse, your compressor should start (assuming no doors are ajar). The compressor than fills all four airbags in your vehicle to a factory-set height. These airbags provide a softer ride than the conventional shock/strut system seen in less expensive SUV's and trucks but are also more prone to problems and damage down the line. You can isolate the compressor as the sound by going to your truck, removing the left hand side panel and switching your air ride off. Your car's compressor then should not kick in at all. However, you should not operate your vehicle with this switch turned off. You should only use it as a diagnostic reference or anytime your car is towed, hoisted, or jacked up. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
I don't know how much oil you had to put in but it sounds like you have maybe more than opne issue and both sound major. One is engine reving and speed not picking up sounds like trans problem. Two the engine shaking and making noise and being run low on oil leans toward possible engine damage. If your mechanicly inclined check all fluids and when checking trans fluid smell it. If it smells burnt the trans has been damaged. Check oil pressure and make sure coolant is full.You may have to take it into the shop.
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
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