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Put in new battery but won't turn over


You may not have needed a new battery, the problem may be caused by corroded connectors, particularly the battery-related cables at the terminating (other) ends.
Remove the negative battery clamp first when working on electrical items.

Locate the other ends of the heavy cables coming from the battery and clean them.

You didn't include make and model info so can't say if there is a separate stretch of cable between engine block and chassis.

Mar 29, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Unable to remove starter on a lincoln navigator 2000


Where are you stuck?
Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3. Remove the starter terminal cover. 4. Remove the terminal nut and separate the battery starter cable from the starter motor. 5. Disconnect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid. NOTE: To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid (S) terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and (S) terminal. 6. Remove the starter motor retaining bolts. 7. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle. To Install: 8. Place the starter motor in position and install the starter motor retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). 9. Install the battery starter cable and a terminal nut to the starter motor. Tighten the terminal nuts to 79 inch lbs. (9 Nm). 10. Connect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid. 11. Install the starter solenoid safety cap. If equipped. 12. Lower the vehicle. 13. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine several times to check starter motor operation.
Let me know how you make out..

Feb 17, 2011 | Lincoln Navigator Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace starter how do i do this


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figure 3 to 6)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise the front of the vehicle and install jackstands beneath the frame. Firmly apply the parking brake and place blocks in back of the rear wheels.
d07c224.jpg

Fig. 3: Disconnect all wires connected to the starter, including this ground wire on the starter moutnting bolt stud
  1. Tag and disconnect the wiring at the starter.
WARNING When detaching the hardshell connector at the S-terminal, grasp the plastic shell to pull it off. Do not pull on the wire itself. Ensure to pull the connector straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S-terminal. If any part of the connector is damaged, replace the damaged component.
bce654f.jpg

Fig. 4: Some starters use a self-threading bolt to hold the starter cable

8eafc80.jpg

Fig. 5: Remove the starter motor (arrow) mounting bolts ...
  1. Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove the starter.
a87aff9.jpg

Fig. 6: ... then remove the starter-be careful, the starter motor can be quite heavy

To install:

  1. Position the starter motor against the engine and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 15-19 ft. lbs. (21-27 Nm).
  2. Install the starter solenoid connector by pushing it straight on. Ensure that the connector locks in position with a notable click.
Install the starter cable nut to the starter solenoid B-terminal. Tighten the nut to 80-123 inch lbs. (9-14 Nm).
  1. Connect any remaining wiring to the starter motor.
  2. Lower the front of the vehicle and remove the wheel blocks.
  3. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope this helps: remember rated this.

Aug 11, 2010 | 1995 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

I need to know which fuse needs to be replaced to make the driver's side brake light work? What a pain this always is. Who's idea was it to NOT include a fuse map for the interior of this car? Good Lord.


There is no separate fuse for one brake light,check the connector at the brake light bulb,and replace the bulbs,do not change the bulb out with a similar number,like if it uses a 3057 bulb,do not use a 3157,they are different.Look at the terminals,with no voltage to the light,and bend the contacts for the bulb inward to make sure there is contact.

Jun 01, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

1999 1500 Chevy Silverado - microchip for anti-theft?


Document ID# 803013
1999 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD

Security Lamp Illuminated on the IP, Engine Stalls, No Start, DTC B2960 (Security System Sensor Data Incorrect but Valid) Set (Inspect and Repair Cause of DTC B2960)
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility Models (Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL)

This bulletin is being revised to add information on inspecting for electrical intermittent conditions and important connector C201 tightening steps. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-56-002 (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).

Condition
Some customers may comment on the following conditions. These symptoms may be intermittent.

• Security lamp illuminates while driving. The Security lamp may be On or Off when the customer brings the vehicle to the service facility.

• The engine cranks but will not start and the Security lamp is flashing.

• The engine starts then stalls and the Security lamp is flashing.

Cause
Condition(s) may be due to an incorrect Passlock™ sensor voltage received by the body control module (BCM) from the Passlock™ sensor due to the following conditions. Most intermittent conditions are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring.

• A 7 ohm variation in the sensor ground circuit wiring, circuit 1057

• A 100 ohm variation in the Passlock™ sensor signal wiring circuit, circuit 1836

Inspect for the following items:

• Broken wiring inside the insulation.

• A poor connection between the male and female terminal at the connector. Refer to Testing for Proper Terminal Contact under Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems for the specific procedure.

• A poor terminal to wire connection. Some conditions that fall under this description include poor crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over the wire insulation instead of the wire itself, and corrosion in the wire to terminal contact area.

• Wire insulation that is rubbed through. This causes an intermittent short as the bare area touches other wiring or parts of the vehicle.

• A poor connection between the male and female terminal at a connector. This poor connection may be the result of contamination or deformation.

- Contamination may be caused by the connector halves being improperly connected. A missing or damaged connector seal, damage to the connector itself, or exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt can also cause contamination. Contamination, usually in the underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion, causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.

• Separate the connector halves.

• Visually inspect the connector halves for contamination. Contamination may result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between terminals. This causes high terminal resistance, intermittent contact, or an open circuit. An underhood or underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety including the terminals, the seals, and the connector body.

- Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper adapter, improperly joining the connector halves, or repeatedly separating and joining the connector halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal connector tang, can result in poor terminal contact causing an open or intermittently open circuit. Using an equivalent male terminal from the J 38125-B, test that the retention force is significantly different between an good terminal and a suspect terminal. Replace the female terminal in question.

Correction
Have any of the following components had service recently?

• The BCM

• The ignition lock cylinder case assembly

• The PCM/VCM

If any of the above components have been replaced, the Programming Theft Deterrent System Components procedure must be performed before any diagnostic procedures are performed.

To assist in diagnosis, the following steps are provided.

Does the engine start? If not, use the Engine Cranks but Does Not Run diagnostic information in the Engine Controls sub-section of the applicable Service Manual.
Important:

• The Security telltale on the message center is controlled by the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system and the content theft deterrent (CTD) system. The Security telltale is controlled by the BCM through the Class 2 data line.

• The VTD system portion of the BCM controls the Security telltale when the ignition switch is in the On position. The VTD system uses the Security telltale as a malfunction indicator.

• The CTD system portion of the BCM controls the Security telltale when the ignition switch is in the Off position. The CTD system uses the Security telltale to identify system status.


Observe the Security indicator lamp in the instrument panel.
Remove the key from the lock cylinder.
- Security indicator should be Flashing when the door is open.

- Security indicator should be Off when all the doors are closed.

- If the Security indicator does not come On or go Off correctly, refer to the Content Theft Deterrent System diagnostic and repair information in the applicable Service Manual.

With the Doors closed, place the key in the lock cylinder and turn to the Run position. Observe the Security indicator lamp.
- Lamp is On and does not go Off however, the engine starts. This indicates that the VTD system detected a fault when the engine was running.

- Lamp flashes On and Off. This indicates a problem has been detected by the VTD (Passlock™) system and the engine may not start this key cycle, a current condition.

Important: You must diagnose the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in the order specified in the DTC table shown below. Failure to do so may result in one or more of the following conditions:


• Extended diagnostic time

• Incorrect diagnosis

• Incorrect parts replacement


DTC
Diagnostic Procedure
Module

Important: Before you use this table, diagnose P0601, P0602, P0604, and P0606. Refer to Diagnostic System Check - Theft Deterrent.

PXXXX Other PCM DTCs

Refer to the following procedures:

• Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls - 4.3L

• Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls - 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0

• DTC P0192 in Engine Controls - 6.6L

• Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls - 8.1L


If none of the above items are true, proceed with the following steps:

Install seat covers.
Connect the scan tool to the diagnostic link connector (DLC).
Enter scan tool diagnostics.
Select the model year of the vehicle.
Select light truck.
Select F1, (Body).
Select "C" or "K" for Series.
Select F0, Body Control Module.
Select F0, (Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)).
Select F0, (DTC information).
Select F0, (Current DTC).
Record on the repair order any current DTCs displayed. If none, skip the next step.
Is a current B2960 DTC displayed? If no, the condition is not present with this key cycle. Continue to the next step.
Select Exit.
Select F1, (History DTC).
Are any history DTCs other than B2960 present? If so, diagnose those DTCs first using the appropriate service information, otherwise continue.
Select Exit.
Select Exit.
Select F1, Data Display.
Select F6, Security.
Cycle the key to the OFF position and wait 20 seconds.
Slowly turn the key to the RUN position. Be careful not to turn the key into the START position.
Observe the following values:
- Passlock™ Data Voltage should be 5.0 volts.

- Passlock™ State should be Normal.

- Passlock™ Code should be Open.

Rotate the key to the START position, and observe the following again:
- Passlock™ Data Voltage should be less than 5.0 volts. Passlock™ Data Voltage should remain steady and not fluctuate. The test vehicle used for this diagnostic procedure had a voltage value of 2.49 volts. The vehicle being worked on may be either higher or lower than this value. The key is that it has to be less than 5.0 volts.

- Passlock™ State should be "Monitor Passlock™".

- Passlock™ Code should be Valid Code.

If no trouble is found and the customer has experienced one of the symptoms or the code is a history DTC, the most likely cause is the VTD (Passlock™) wiring, specifically the wires from the VTD (Passlock™) sensor to the BCM.

May 13, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Heater fan only works on high


The blower resistor needs to be replaced. The blower motor resistor is located in the passenger foot well, it is mounted inside the heater case near the firewall and the blower motor. This is an extremely common problem with these vehicles, and the problem is in the wiring connector that goes to the resistor module. The blower motor draws current through the resistor pack at an excessive rate and causes the wiring terminals at the resistor pack to melt and loose connection. The most effective and permanent fix to this problem is to replace the connector end, the blower motor, AND the blower motor resistor. You can usually get away with just repairing the wiring at the resistor module, however it is extremely likely that the problem will repeat itself in the future. The connector ends are available at your local GM dealership, are relatively inexpensive, and they come in a package that contains the connector pigtail and heat-shrink **** connectors, however to maximize model coverage they manufacture the pigtail so that all of the wires are white. This means that your wire colors will not match up, and you will need to snip and crimp each wire separately as to avoid confusing their positions in the connector and accidentally wiring the resistor pack incorrectly. Inspect the resistor module for melted terminals as well, usually the module needs to be replaced because of melting damage. Should you choose NOT to replace the blower motor, the system will likely work in all speeds after repairing the connector, but you are taking your own risk towards the problem happening again. Good luck

Dec 10, 2009 | 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

My 2001 Ford Escape left headlamp cuts out intermittently. It will work again with a light tap on the lens. When it is working properly and I try to recreate the problem by pushing the connector and wires,...


There is likely a bad filament in the bulb or the connector at the back of the bulb is burned. Most likely the filament inside the bulb itself. Once the bulb starts burning the filament is (semi-welded) together, when the lights are turned off and the filament cools it separates until bumped, jostled, or shaken into place. Check the connector and if it is not burned and the terminals inside look good and clean then just replace the bulb. You may never get it to fail once you get it to light, intermittent electrical issues are something I deal with on a daily basis and can be harrowing to locate. But I would bet my paycheck it is the bulb or connector.
Good luck

Oct 17, 2009 | 2001 Ford Escape

2 Answers

How to remove a starter on a 2002 ford explorer


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Properly raise and support the vehicle.
b58491e.gif
Disconnect all wires connected to the starter, including this ground wire on the starter mounting bolt stud

  1. Click to Enlarge

    1. Tag and disconnect the wiring at the starter.
    1. WARNING
    1. When detaching the hard-shell connector at the S-terminal, grasp the plastic shell to pull it off. Do not pull on the wire itself. Ensure to pull the connector straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S-terminal. If any part of the connector is damaged, replace the damaged component.
  • daab222.gif
    Remove the starter motor (arrow) mounting bolts . .

    Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove the starter.

    5c220c9.gif
    . . . then remove the starter—be careful, the starter motor can be quite heavy

    To install:
    1. Position the starter motor against the engine and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 15–19 ft. lbs. (21–27 Nm).
    2. Install the starter solenoid connector by pushing it straight on. Ensure that the connector locks in position with a notable click.
    Install the starter cable nut to the starter solenoid B-terminal. Tighten the nut to 80–123 inch lbs. (9–14 Nm).
    1. Connect any remaining wiring to the starter motor.
    2. Lower the vehicle.
    3. Connect the negative battery cable.

    Oct 11, 2009 | 2002 Ford Explorer

    1 Answer

    How do i remove starter on 2001 ford f350 dually (7.3 l powerstroke)


    Starter

    Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the positive and negative battery cables.
    2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
    3. Remove the starter terminal cover.
    4. Remove the terminal nut and separate the battery starter cable from the starter motor.
    5. Disconnect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid.
    ø To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid (S) terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and (S) terminal.
    6. Remove the starter motor retaining bolts.
    7. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
    To Install:
    8. Place the starter motor in position and install the starter motor retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).
    9. Install the battery starter cable and a terminal nut to the starter motor. Tighten the terminal nuts to 79 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
    10. Connect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid.
    11. Install the starter solenoid safety cap. If equipped.
    12. Lower the vehicle.
    13. Connect the positive and negative battery cables.
    14. Start the engine several times to check starter motor operation

    May 27, 2009 | 2001 Ford F350 Super Duty SuperCab

    1 Answer

    410 secondary air injection malfunction code comes up


    P0410 Secondary Air Injection System
    "Secondary Air" is an abbreviated term for the "Secondary Air Injection System". This system uses a separate air pump and a series of metal and rubber tubes to force outside air into the exhaust stream and help the catalytic converter burn away excessive emissions.

    Possible causes and fixes are:
    #1 Poor connection, rubbed-through wire insulation or a broken wire inside the insulation.

    #2 Inspect harness connectors for backed-out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, poor terminal-to-wire connection, and damaged harness.

    #3 Check for worn or loose AIR pump drive belt.

    #4 Check for pinched, kinked or restricted AIR pipes, hoses or fittings.

    Problems with this system can stem from electrical circuits, solenoids, or switches that control the pump and valves. Other problems include sticking valves, loose, rusted, or poorly connected lines, a broken drive belt, or possibly a bad pump.

    Mar 19, 2009 | 2001 Saturn SC

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