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Bombardier 2001 ATV 500cc traxter xt. How to remove and replace left front half shaft.

Taken left front wheel and outer end of half shaft off of ATV,now how to remove inner half of half shaft,removed large stainless band,

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 328 Answers

SOURCE: 93 OLDS HALF SHAFT REMOVAL LEFT SIDE

the procedure to remove them is here As for the seal you should be able to pry the old one out once you have removed the half shaft with a screwdriver or ask at your local parts store if they can rent/sell you a seal removal tool
hope this helps!

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: Front-left Outer CV Shaft Disconnected from inner-CV shaft

If memory serves me right the axel is bolted to a plate on the front differenchel and a large nut on the end that goes thru the hub bearing, if you take the whole shaft out( both ends) i see no problem running it temporary without it.

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

mech1920
  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove the inner bearing front left axle shaft

small screw driver or pick just comes right out

Posted on Nov 28, 2011

  • 457 Answers

SOURCE: Vibration in 1999 S-10 I have replaced the u joints and outer wheel bearings. with the rear end elevated the truck in gear I still have a vibration. I removed the rear half of the drive shaft and run

look for out of round tires or a bent axle.

Posted on Apr 15, 2013

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2 Answers

Left front wheel arm broke


go to the wreckers and get another good one and replace it

Mar 07, 2016 | 2003 Chevrolet Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS

1 Answer

Have anyone out there ever change inner tie rods on a1995 honda odyssey?,if so simply explain,THANKS


Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Sep 10, 2012 | 1995 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

Cv joints


Hi Thomas, I have not changed CV's on your type of vehicle, but can give you the path to follow. Here we go; Always work with someone to assist you. pepare four plastic bags for use later. With both front wheels on the ground remove any wheel covers fitted. In the center of the wheel you will see the shafts of the CV's. These are held in position with large nuts, either locked with a tab or sometimes with a locking washer and split pin. Unlock whichever system is used and loosen the nuts on the shafts. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the vehicle and place chassis stands to support the vehicle and the lower it onto the stands. Remove the wheels and remove the center nuts from the CV joints. If the vehicle is fitted with McPherson struts, loosen the two through bolts and nuts, or if fitted with wishbone suspension loosen and remove the bolts securing the the upper ball joints. Swing the stub axle outward and downwards so that there is enough room to remove the CV shafts from from the hubs. Put on a pair of goggles and then climb under the vehicle and release the boots or retaining bolts holding the shaft into the spyder or inner CV joint. Once removed pull the half shaft out of the housings keeping everything as clean as possible and wrap in a plastic bag.. (There will be high impact grease inside both the inner and outer joints, This may have been thrown out in the event that the rubber boots are broken) If you are replacing the entire half shafts, carefully observe the way in which the inner joint is fitted. If there are no bolts, studs or nuts holding a flange onto the gear box differential housing, the inner joints will be held in place by spring loaded clips fitted around the ends of the inner shafts. If your vehicle uses that type of fitting the shafts will be levered out. It will be important to use a catchment tray to collect any transmission oil which leaks out. Cover the joint with one of the plastic bags. If you are fitting only the outer CV's, the defective units are knocked off the shafts with a heavy copper mallet (The shafts also have locking cur clips holding the shafts in place. Sometimes the inner basket of the CV bearing housing will need to be cut or broken out, so the the joint can be removed. Please both you and your friend use safety goggles during this procedure. Once removed, fit the new joint. If you are replacing the entire assembly and if they are the type using clips, use a thick piece of wood and hold the shaft as straight as possible then ask your pal to knock the shaft into the housing. The rest of the job is the opposite to removal. When fitting the outer CV shaft nut follow the correct tightening torque setting, as these usually hold the front wheel bearings at the correct settings and tightness. Regards John

Feb 14, 2012 | 2006 Chrysler Pacifica

2 Answers

How do you remove the cv joint on the left side from the transmission?


YOU NEED A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB PUSHING THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB,THEN TAP THE SHAFT UNION AT THE JOINT CASE WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER TO REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT AND INNER SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE. IF YOU HAVE AN INNER SHAFT REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT BY SETTING UP A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB AND PRESSING THE HALFSHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB. AFTER PRESSING THE OUTER SHAFT INSERT A PRYBAR BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE CASE AND THE HALFSHAFT AND PRY THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE DONT PULL ON THE SHAFT.

Sep 11, 2011 | 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder

1 Answer

How do you replace a front wheel shaft rubber boot


Split wrap around boots are not a good option. If your axle joint is in good shape rebooting is an option. It is extremely messy and often takes a special tool to install the new boot clamps. A new axle or a factory rebuilt is always a good option. Beware of local rebuilders they may short cut and not replace all the worn parts.
With the wheel on the ground take off the axle nut, jack up the car, take off the wheel, unbolt the strut, take off the caliper, pull the disc and bearing holder down, and pull the axle out the back side. Pull the axle out of the transmission and take it over to your bench. Remove the inner boot clamps, pull back the inner boot from the transmission bearing cup. There is a large ring clip holding the bearing into the cup , remove the clip and slide the inner cup off of the bearing. With a circlip plier remove the clip from the end of the shaft and slide the inner bearing off of the shaft. Now take the clamps off of the outer boot and slide the boot down the length of the shaft. Clean all of the parts thoroughly and regrease before reassembly. The new boot has to slide down the length of the shaft, from inside to out side, to be installed on the outer joint.

Jan 22, 2011 | 2007 Toyota Yaris

1 Answer

I've got a 1999 2500 Chevy Silverado , that I need to change a cv boot on , can u assist me.?


CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.


  1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
  2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
    boot from the joint outer race.
  3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
    outer race (the body of the joint).
  4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
    assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
  5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
    splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
  6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
    to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
    of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.


  1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
    is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
    inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
    shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
    together. Insert the balls into the cage.
  2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
    specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
  3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
    bands is correct.
  4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
  2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
    that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
  3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
    halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
  4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
    shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
    damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

To Install:


  1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
    vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
    damper, if used, in the correct order.
  2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
  3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
    supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
    being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
    grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
  4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
    distance between boot bands is correct.
  5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
    cable.






Check the CV-boot for wear
tccs7030.jpg








Removing the outer band from the CV-boot
tccs7031.jpg








Removing the inner band from the CV-boot
tccs7032.jpg








Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing
tccs7033.jpg








Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot
tccs7034.jpg








Removing the CV-joint housing assembly
tccs7035.jpg








Removing the CV-joint
tccs7036.jpg








Inspecting the CV-joint housing
tccs7037.jpg








Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring
tccs7038.jpg








Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear
tccs7039.jpg








CV-joint snap ring (typical)
tccs7040.jpg








Removing the CV-joint assembly
tccs7041.jpg








Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring
tccs7042.jpg








Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)
tccs7043.jpg




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Oct 07, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

2 Answers

JUST STARTING TO CLICK WHEN YOU TURN TO LEFT


thats all the help I get? Most likely a CV axle

Feb 17, 2010 | 1990 Suzuki Swift

3 Answers

Front-left Outer CV Shaft Disconnected from inner-CV shaft


Temporarily because **** from the road is going to get into the transmission because that shaft provide the sealing off of the internal chambers of the transmision.

Jul 14, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Removing the right intermediate axle shaft


i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
removed the lower balljoint pichbolt and seperate the lower balljoint front the steering knuckle. take the axle nut off and using a large brass drift or hardwood, drive the axle out of the bearing-hub assembly. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS. also use some lubricant on the axle nut dissasembly. after the outer axle end is free, using the same brass drift or other, hit the inner cv joint and drive it off the intermediate shaft. inspect the splines closely because these fail and cause a no-drive condition.
then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.

Jan 27, 2009 | 2003 Ford Escape

1 Answer

Front axle how to remove half shaft


Hi.. The step to remove the front Axles of you Vitara.
Raise and support Vehicle . Remove front wheel,
Drain Diff,fluid,
Remove Locking Hub if is equipaded,
Remove Circle clip from axle shaft
On right side of Vehicle, Remove the Stabilizer Little ball joint nut. Remove castle nut Front Tie rod end,
Remove mounting bolts from brake calipper,
Remove Calipper from steering knuckle and wire a side.
Remove Stud Nut from steering knuckle,
Support Lower suspension arm with a jack,
Remove lower strut bracket bolt ,
Lower jack and disconnect Knuckle from lower suspension crontrol arm,
Pull Outler joint from Hub.
Use Large screwdriver or Prybar To pry Right inner joint from differential, The axle will go out making a little froce with the prybar,
To remove the left side,
Remove mounting bolt from inner joint flange,
Pull out axle from hub.

To reinstall just reverse the prosses.

I hope this help on your job...
Thank you for use fixya....


Aug 18, 2008 | 1999 Suzuki Vitara

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