Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Easy job ! just rem to get a gear puller for the antilock gear and install same as came off old one Parts around 100$ each apx 1/2 hr each side
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
SOURCE: rear wheel bearing
SECTION 205-02B: Rear Drive Axle/Differential — Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear
2003 Mustang Workshop Manual
Remove the U-washer (4N237).
Carefully remove the rear brake anti-lock sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09A .
Remove the axle shaft.
Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal Removal
Using the special tools, remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal.
Install the two axle shafts.
Install the U-washer.
Install the differential pinion shaft.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
you must remove brakes, then remove axle nut, then remove upper control arm and finally tie rod stabilizer, remove axle from car then bearing can be accessed. this is a difficult job that requires special tools so be careful
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
yes it is one big nut, however it looks like 4 individual nuts due to the fact that they are a thinly stacked layer or thin nuts held together by what you called the tab washer............only way to replace is to get a new one from ford........
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank-you for that, I have ordered a new one from the ford dealers. I just wonder why the 4 nuts were fitted in the first place? thank you"
SOURCE: how to remove rear bearing hub
The bearing is already shot so disregard what you hear about loosening the hub nut before you jack the car up. If you are doing this in your backyard it is VERY important to jack and support the car properly....you won't be able to use the parking brake because you'll be taking the disc/hat off. So work smart and safe.----Remove hub cap. :---Spray PB Blaster or another good rust killer in the hub, and all the nuts you will be removing. That means the pinch bolts for the toe link and the upper ball joint, plus the nut. Also the nut on the bolt of the lower arm. --Break the lug nuts AND 36mm hub nut a 1/4 turn.--Jack up the car and support. Remove lug nuts, then tire.----Remove brake caliper and support it to prevent damage to hose....I hung mine from the coil spring...The metal brake line fit in between the coils very nicely.----Remove disc/hat.----Remove the 36mm hub nut (you need buy a new one...really) -----Use a hub puller to press the axle shaft in through the hub, just a little bit...to break the rust. JUST A LITTLE! YOU ARE JUST BREAKING THE RUST SO IT WILL COME APART EASIER LATER. Spray it again and move on. Remove puller for now. -----Remove the springs, and retainers from the parking brake and remove the parking brake shoes.----Remove the parking brake levers coming through the rubber bushing .----Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Upper Ball Joint (at 12 o'clock) MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS SAME BOLT BACK IN WITH A NEW NUT. THIS BOLT IS A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE TOE LINK BOLT!----Note: The pinch arms are just a term for the design....the bolt goes through a split....when the bolt is tightened, it clamps on the part that is meant to be held. Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Toe Link (at 7 o'clock)
Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Support lower arm (I used a cinder block)
Remove nut and bolt through lower arm (at 6 o'clock)
The only thing holding you back now should be getting the hub / knuckle assembly off the axle shaft.
Attach your puller again to the hub and as you tighten it the hub / knuckle assembly should start coming off the axle shaft pretty easily....if it doesn't, spray it.
The hub must be pressed out of the bearing
The bearing must be pressed out of the knuckle.
The new bearing must be pressed into the knuckle.
The NEW hub must be pressed into the bearing.
I don't have a press and had a local machine shop do this part for $50.00
I didn't have all tools and had to buy a few.
24" breaker bar $20
36mm hub socket $17
Universal Hub Puller $ 21....AutoZone will buy back but I will keep
The other tools are just a couple of sockets and wrenches....I think 18mm.
A ball joint splitter....PB Blaster (I swear by this stuff)
You SHOULD replace the HUB and bearing. I got the hub and bearing at AutoZone for $121.....tools cost $58...Machine Shop was $50.
Total cost was about $230.....dealer wanted $750.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
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