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Very new HD 1980 FLH Sportster owner. I found oil coming out of rear cylinder. Bad oil rings? top end needs rebuilding? can anyone near by help, Bishop, Kingsville, Corpus Christi?

Mileage unknown? maintenance unknown? One past owner I think.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

fastboyz
  • 674 Answers

SOURCE: GMC Rear End Rebuild

here is a great site randy sell great parts at a great price and he is a pro.
check his site and you will find even more info than you need randys
and what emissionwiz said is 100% correct i have had people bring me their trucks with rear ends that they tried to set up just by looking at tooth contact and they have ruined a new set.
follow randys instruction with the right tools and you wonnt have a problem.
good luck paul

Posted on Oct 21, 2008

JMMARRERO59
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: 5th gear won't stay in

POSSIBLE SHIFTER CABLE OR BUSHING IN SHIFTER CABLE WORN OUT.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: rear end whine 2001 s10 4x4

If its low on fluid it could be the bearings in the end the axle tubes, i dont think the ring and pinion would be bad until you hear grinding sounds. hope that helps

Posted on May 24, 2009

  • 603 Answers

SOURCE: My mother drives(as the second owner) an 03 Aerio

Why does there need to be some underlying problem.
It maybe leaking while driving, so you do not see oil anywhere.
Regular oil checks are required of any car, new or old.
Did you add oil and see how low it was?
If it was 1-2 quarts low it maybe alright.
Add oil, run car for a few days and check it again.

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: same

code po440

Posted on Jan 19, 2010

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There is always a better alternative than the dealership as far as costs. They want to put a new motor in a 2003 model? That is ridiculous to me- cost-prohibitive. Find a reputable independent shop. Look for references and customer satisfaction. A used, low mileage replacement engine is a better alternative, probably less than half the cost of a new engine.
There may be an even better alternative, where you refurbish the top end of the engine-the cylinder head and valve train. This is dependent on that a wet-dry compression test supports rebuilding the top end. What I mean by this is a compression test of the cylinders reveals low compression in one or more cylinders, okay. Next, they would squirt some oil (about a tablespoon) in the low cylinders and check compression again. If compression doesn't change, it points to the valves and valve train (the valve guides which wear and could let oil into the cylinder). But if compression is higher in the wet test, then the piston rings are worn and losing compression, and oil gets past them-this would indicate the engine needs a complete rebuild or a replacement is called for. The reason for the wet test is that the oil will temporarily seal around the piston rings and improve compression if the rings are the problem.
If the test shows the valves are the problem (and it is very possible on an engine with only 120K-your bottom end could be fine), then a top end rebuild of the engine is a much cheaper route than any other choices. You may not know this, but often a little oil burning in the cylinders at start-up is nothing more than the valve stem rubber seals are deteriorated-a real cheap fix. The dealership probably won't tell you this. However, with the loss of power, well, that points to something more severe than valve stem seals. So I would recommend the wet compression test, just to check if it is the top end or the bottom end. If it's the top end, you could have the cylinder head reconditioned and motor along for a few more years, trouble free.
Similar to a compression test, a "leak down" test of the cylinders is actually a more accurate method of finding where compression is lost, and it's only a one step test. They hold compressed air in the cylinder and analyze where it escapes to pinpoint compression loss. Loss of compression translates into loss of power. Have either test done before you decide. Find a good mechanic and trust his advice. (Stay far away from dealers. Greed is their motivating factor.)

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Hello,

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Slk 230


The hydraulic cylinder lines are designed to not be removable from the cylinder. There have been people who have done it, me, but it requires redesigning the attachment point. Not for the novice. If you are replacing the part, the new one comes with the lines attached. You must remove the plastic interior in the trunk and disconnect the lines at the pump. If you are only rebuilding the cylinder and reinstalling it, it can be done without removing the lines from the car. You will rebuild it sitting in the passenger seat. you will need the replacement O-rings sold on Ebay.

Bad news, if you are experiencing one cylinder leaking, it is very likely the other two that raise the top will begin leaking very soon. This is because all three cylinders use a rod seal made of the same material that degrades over time. The two remaining cylinders (of five) that raise the trunk almost never go bad because they were originally designed with the O-rings.

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-New cylinders run $300 to $400 apiece
-About $40 to $60 to have your cylinders rebuilt, apiece
-Around $10 to $20 to buy the O-rings on Ebay

Mark Andrews

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