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My 1962 Mercedes 190D (Heckflosse) won't glow her diesel fuel.

I found a failed glow plug and proceeded to replace all of them but it made no difference. I also checked the tension on the pull cable, it is fine. The starter and battery are both fine and everything appears to be connected properly but I must be overlooking something....

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Glowing DIESEL FUEL is a sign of radioactivity! Better call a hazardous waste cleanup crew, and HURRY!

Posted on May 11, 2017

Testimonial: "Evidently she isn't radioactive since the fuel isn't glowing. :-)"

  • 23 more comments 
  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    What is the EXACT meaning of the expression, "My 1962 Mercedes 190D (Heckflosse) won't GLOW HER DIESEL FUEL"?

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    She won't pre-heat the fuel for ignition.

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    Heat energy and LIGHT energy are two different things! What DRIVES the glow plugs, electrically?

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    A pull knob. You pull it until the glow light indicates the fuel is warm enough to ignite. You can tell when the pull knob engages the plugs to warm the fuel because the engine light dims slightly, currently the light isn't dimming, the glow light isn't glowing and fuel isn't warming. It seems the circuit is broken.

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    What does that "pull knob" DO? Does it control a switch, or IS IT a switch? Do you have an ohmmeter, or a voltmeter? If not, they're CHEAP at Harbor Freight Tools!

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    Are you familiar with older diesel engines at all?

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    I have checked continuity with the various connections (ohms) and they seem intact. I have checked voltage through the glow plugs and it's at 12 volts, which is why I new to check the plugs and how I found the failed plug. However, after replacing the plugs, I'm still getting 12 volts through the plugs.

    I am testing this by engaging the pull knob and checking each plug with a multimeter, positive lead on the plug, negative lead grounded on the valve cover. The 4th plug (plug nearest the firewall) shows 12 volts on the meter but the others all seem to be flat, the meter shows nothing. I have dissembled and cleaned all connections, they are free of corrosion. I am confused at this point.

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    Yes, I have worked on them too! I have been working on all kinds of vehicles and machinery since the middle 1960's, so that's OVER 50 years of experience! Now, can you TEST that glow plug switch, or not?

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    Great, with all your experience you don't need to ask what a pull knob does. :-)

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    I had assumed that if I engaged the pull knob (switch) and was getting 12 volts, the knob was doing its job and the issue was at the plugs, especially since one of the plugs was so definitely failed. It hadn't occurred to me to try the same test without engaging the pull knob.

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    I KNOW what a pull knob in a Mercedes SHOULD do ... but obviously it does NOT do it, and that is apply ELECTRICAL POWER to the glow plugs. But that is NOT happening, is it! So for the THIRD TIME, can you TEST the switch, or not?

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    Do you always try to pedantically brow-beat people in need of advice?

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    If the pull knob has failed to do it's job and there was a failed plug, wouldn't they have had to fail at the same time for me to discover the fuel wouldn't glow? What I mean is it's my understanding that one failed plug prevents the all of them from working.

    I think I can check the pull knob. Wouldn't that be a matter of checking continuity before and after engaging the pull knob? Or is there something else I should be doing to test it?

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    I try NOT to brow-beat people ... but it does annoy me, when people half my age imply that I DON'T know what I'm talking about! I was involved with high-end national competition in both drag racing and circle track racing ... and was the "fix it guy," in a lot of cases!

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    As for testing the knob, a CURRENT METER would be the very best way to test the switch! Put it is electrical SERIES with the load, and READ the current ... repeatedly! Is the current the SAME every time, or does it VARY, indicating bad contacts are the culprit?

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    I appreciate you help but maybe you're not aware that writing in all capital letters is the equivalent to shouting at people and that the way you phrase your questions is very condescending. No one has implied you don't know what you're talking about, re-read the thread, I was merely responding in kind.

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    What are the odds that a plug and the switch would fail at the same time? This is confusing to me...

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    That "political correctness" dribble about capital letters being "yelling" is pure hogwash! Have you ever read a newspaper headline? Aren't they usually in all caps? What about billboard signs, or for that matter, road signs? Have you ever seen road signs in all lower case letters? I rest my case!

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    What are the odds that a switch and a plug would fail at the same time? Reverse that logic for a moment! What are the odds that one failure would CAUSE another failure? Suppose a glow plug failed SHORTED, demanding LOTS of current through a switch that was never designed to carry that much current? Switch failure would be virtually CERTAIN, and soon!

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    When you being publishing your work your argument for all capitals will make sense to someone else besides you. Tone and inflection are difficult to convey in written form, even for seasoned writers, and comparing conversational inflection to headlines and road signs is just silly. :-)

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    OK, that makes perfect sense. A failed plug may cause an overload and burn out the switch. That switch burned out (and I replaced it) a couple years ago. I'll see what I can do with trouble shooting the switch. Thank you, I appreciate your assistance.

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    "Political correctness", "all caps yelling", and "citizen of the world" are all globalist terms that have been stressed to the max by the far left. But the reign of the far left is over. I tried my best to help you, and what do I get for it? SCOLDING for my writing style? Thank you VERY LITTLE!!!

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    Don't be cranky, you didn't get scolded. And stop trying to play the victim.

  • solver2010 May 11, 2017

    Here is a helpful suggestion ... which will likely FIX your Mercedes! Using a current meter (10 amp range), BYPASS the "knob switch" by connecting the positive lead straight to the battery voltage. Do the glow plugs work, and what is the current? (Don't tell me, just take note of the current). Then disconnect from the + battery terminal, and connect to the low side (lowest voltage) of the knob switch. NOW what is the current, with the knob in the ON postiton? Is the current LOWER than it was directly from the + battery terminal? I just made an ERROR CORRECTION ... and those last two words were an INFORMATION SIGN, which are usually in ALL CAPS!

  • Anonymous May 11, 2017

    That's a great idea. Thank you.

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