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1996 x90 has also had fuel pump and filter replaced and rechecked noid test ...no go on all 4 cylinders..ECM removed and all caps look flat and does not smell of burned areas..I am lost?

The main relay clicks all dash lights active ...Tach is not showing activity except when cranked on diagnostic program and shows 215 rpms...zero codes..FP relay has pink wire disconnected because when connected it buzzes..that way for at least four years..ran great for four years

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 5,280 Answers

Check fuel pressure, and check for spark.

Posted on May 11, 2017

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  • gary davis
    gary davis May 12, 2017

    has spark runs on starter fluid.. new fuel pump and filter and all fuses are good..main relay is good...

  • gary davis
    gary davis May 12, 2017

    testing fuel pressure with gauge today and rechecking timing belt...but runs on test fuel???

  • montehammons May 12, 2017

    Runs on fluid-then your pump or injectors are not working. Now I see you did a noid test, so must be pump not working. I don't know what that pink wire is at FPR, never heard of that. BTW, did you check the fuel pump fuse? ////just looked at a wiring diagram, 4 wires to it, that pink wire is the relay's coil side signal from the ecm, it needs to be hooked in, or relay won't work. Don't understand how it could have worked before. If it buzzes with wire back on, try a new relay. If still happens, possibly a bad ecm. Check fuse #16 in your fuse box, this is fuse for the relay. the pink wire goes into the ecm from the relay, and the ecm grounds that wire internally to turn on the relay. Also, check the ground for your fuel pump. Next, use a test light or voltmeter, and check the pump wire at gas tank connector-I think it is a pink wire with black stripe. You will need a helper. The engine must be cranking over to see voltage on the fuel pump wire. If no voltage, go back to the FPR-that must be the problem. If there is voltage on pump wire with engine cranking, but still no pump action, it must be the ground for your pump or a defective pump-sometimes you can get a new one that is defective.

  • gary davis
    gary davis May 14, 2017

    the pink at the relay has been cut and is not required as a new wire was ran to a blue wire (hot only with key on accessory) under the dash directly to the fuel pump and operated that way for 4 years..all fuses are good...I am checking out the relays to be 100%. There are five total (counting the one for the horn and headlights) and they work. I have checked the FP relay..there are two with green receivers. Same result when switched the main clicks and the fuel pump relay buzzes..switch back and the main clicks FP relay buzzes..disco the pink wire at FP relay as it is not required anyway since we have a hot from key on only to the fuel pump...no blown fuses..no buzzing...Need to remove all 4 relays and test to be 100% I will also crank and test the fuel pump voltage at the tank as you have suggested ..

  • gary davis
    gary davis May 16, 2017

    fuel pressure good..relay for the main clicks when installed in its receiver..but when removed and tested with external 12 volt no click..80 ohms..fuel relay removed and tested 69 ohms and no clicking...I under stand the relay should click??? horn relay works..one other..relay in a green receiver just like the fuel relay tested as well and same scenario??? (Funny the test light lights on all three when tested externally however no click)..are they bad??? stuck in closed mode..burned?? I guess I will have to open one and check it...very peculiar they all have no click???? Any ideas? color codes as follow...FP GREEN receiver.. pink (cut)..pink/blk stripe..blue/blk stripe..black/white stripe....GREEN receiver black/white stripe..red/black stripe..blue/black stripe..blue /silver dashes...MAIN yellow/red stripe..black..pink/blue stripe..pink/silver dashes...

  • montehammons May 17, 2017

    Gary, you may not hear a click, but test by seeing if there is continuity when the coil side is energized. Use jumper wires, positive and negative on the coil side of relay, then test for continuity on the power side. If continuity, like with an ohmmeter, then relay is good.

  • gary davis
    gary davis May 18, 2017

    Thanks these relays are good then..have spark and fuel pressure but noid test is no go x4..looking more like a ground problem or ECM...cranks fast then switch off re-crank engine is cranking slower..fully charged battery..does the crank sensor trigger the injectors after the ECM receives the signal? Or is it received in sequence from the distributor via the ECM?

  • montehammons May 18, 2017

    If it Is "sequential fuel injection" (SFI), then the ecm pulses the injectors according to the firing order and based on the signal from the cam position sensor, not the crank sensor. the ecm makes the determination, and does the grounding internally. The crank sensor is used for spark timing, the cam sensor is used for injector pulsing. Injectors are internally grounded in the ecm by the injector drivers. they can go bad, then you get no blinking on a noid light, nor any light at all when the ground is missing. The injectors have, or should have constant 12 volts available to them when key is ON- check with a voltmeter that is grounded to battery neg. post, and probing injector power wire. Noid light blinks when the ecm internally grounds injector ground wire for a split second. so if have power to injectors but no pulsing, and all ground wires from inj. to ecm are good (none are broken or shorted), then problem could be a bad ecm.

  • gary davis
    gary davis May 18, 2017

    thats what I am inclined to believe at this point..will use voltmeter and ground then key on and probe power leads on each injector..will let ya know..thanks

  • montehammons May 18, 2017

    the power for injectors will be a small amperage-probably 10 or 15 amp-fuse located in the engine compartment. Typically, this fuse has power in run and start. When ignition key is on, the injectors will have battery voltage available to them.

  • gary davis
    gary davis May 19, 2017

    got some extremely off the chart readings...ranging from -0.00 to 1.50 volts...and they were draining as I watched..blue/black was the ony one with 11.06 volts...I knew I had missed a short somewhere on the wireing harness under the intake ---what a task...found and repaired them where someone had a zip tie around them and tucked up tight against the block...plugged the fuel rail harness in,and turned the key VOILA!!!!no blowing fuses drove it for an hour..Perfect...can't thank you enough MONTEHAMMONS..GARY

  • montehammons May 19, 2017

    good to hear. glad you got it.

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