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Wires hot on courage 22 ,new starter,soldenoid,won't start,new battery model sv620

Put on new battery,solenod,starter, turned over good now will not start,turns over slowly then nothing,backfired then shut off,courage 22 sv620 engine

Posted by Anonymous on


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1998 lumina, does not start up with key ignition

Is your security light flashing ?if so you have a problem with the anti theft system.Leave the key on for 10 minutes ,then try this should reset the anti theft system

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

  • 1129 Answers

SOURCE: 1977 ford f 100 solenode mounted on starter

If memory serves me this truck comes with a starting system that incorporates an external solenoid mounted on the fender wall. The symptom you describe is related to either frozen contacts in the solenoid or the existing wiring is attached in correctly. The way the external solenoid wiring goes is as follows, positive battery cable to the solenoid (large, post doesn't matter either side) then the long large wire goes directly to the starter, this type of starter has only one large connection on it which accomodates the large wire from the said solenoid. There are two small wires some where in the vicinity of where the solenoid is mounted to the fender wall, the wires are identified by there special rubber capped shape one is black and one is red, the solenoid shoud have a + and - mark right on the cast to identify which post the wire slides onto. By your description the starter has asolenoid built onto it. Just run the single solenoid cable wire as I decribed to that starter and disconnect and tape the positive small wire going to the starter. Proceed to connect the two small wires that are located in the vicinity of the fender mounter solenoid to the solenoid as I decribed they should have a round rubber slide over type connector to accomodate the small solenoid posts. If this doesn't work you probably need to aquire a starter that is non solenoid intergrated starter, be sure the solenoid is good, that is the one mounted on the fender wall, the described solution should work if there is power to the positive small cap type red wire when the ignition key is activated to the start position, to check put a voltmeter on the wire while an assistant activates the key the volt meter should read 12- 14 volts only when the key is actived to start.

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 95 cavalier that won't start. turns over

have you tested the fuel sending unit ?

Posted on Mar 08, 2010

  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: 2007 chevy cobalt ls won't

Ignition relay or fuse could be the problem. When you turn the key to start do you hear a fuel pump kicking on and or do you have spark when you hot wire the starter (I know it's hard to check while trying to start it)? You can email me back and I might be able to pinpoint it more.

Posted on Jun 06, 2011

  • 2006 Answers

SOURCE: car will not start. Brand

Is the ignition switch good? If the starter/solenoid; starter relay, battery and cables are all good that is about the only thing left.

Do you hear a click when you turn the switch?

Posted on Jul 30, 2011

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Could quite possibly be you have a bad starter. I would have it tested. Could also be a bad battery. If, when jumping it, you used too high of a voltage, could have shorted out a wire somewhere

Oct 27, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

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My truck won't start it's making a clicking sound I took the starter off had it check it's ok I put a new hot cable on still same result check battery it's charge so I dont no what it could...

This has to be one of two things, first try to start the truck with the headlights on and see if the headlights go out when you hear the clicking noise , if they dont then connections are good,mainly the ground wire. but if the headlights go out when the key is in the crank postion then you need to check the ground connection at the motor, you can also try using jumper cables and only use the ground cable and connect one end to negitive battery terminal and the other end to a good clean metal bracket on the engine and then try to start the truck if it starts then its the ground to engine thats bad, this is only if the lights dim out when cranking. also i have seen bad starters that will test good on the bench until they are put back on the car. when the starter was tested it had no engine to turn this makes a big diffrence. try this, jump the starter at the connections on the starter itself, use a jumper wire, on the starter theres two wires, the big hot battery cable and then the small wire, jump across the two connections with wire on, dont remove the connections and see if the engine spins over, if it does then there an eletrical problem with the small wire but if it still clicks then the starter is bad or engine is locked up, i think if you drove the truck and parked it without a problem then i would say its the starter,but if the engine spins over by jumping it then you will neeed to check the power to small wire thats the wire that feeds the power to start the truck when key is turned, this could be caused by a bad ignition switch or a bad neutral safty switch, thats where i would look first, good day.

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I have a 1984 dodge D150, not charging, battery is good,charges with charger\r\ntruck starts and runs pretty good,but is running off of battery, NEW altenater,regulator,and belts belts are tight,replaced...

The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)

To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.

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1977 ford f 100 solenode mounted on starter

so did this problem just happen or did you do some wiring repairs??. on a 1977 the only solenoid should be the fender. I dont have a wiring diagram that old. if it just happened there is a small wire on the solenoid on the fender, unhook this wire, and see if it happens again. if the starter does not engage then you may have a ign switch problem, if it still engages then the solenoid is bad.

Sep 23, 2009 | 1979 Ford F 350

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Will not turn over with new batterie

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(make sure that there is 12v at the starter trigger wire with key in "start" before replacng)
(By battery "hot" you mean it's charged, not getting hot, correct?)

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