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Hi... my questions are why is the crank sensor on a 2002 1.6 and a 2000 1.8 in different places ....and is it possible to connect the 1.8 bottom end crank sensor 3 pin to the 1.6 loom 2 pin ???

I need to do this because my engine broke all by its self i did manage to get 276000 miles from it from new i was given a rusted out 1.8 zafira but the engine is sweet so i swopped them over with a bit of adjusting only to find the plugs on the engine dont fit to the 1.6 loom ........ so i swoped the heads over that went well but the crank sensor is in a different place so...... any ideas please

Posted by Anonymous on

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 03 Altima ( 2.5 ) crank position sensor - retired ASE Master Teck

and YOU took much to long to answer --BUT thanks for your attempt -

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

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SOURCE: 1996 Peugeot 405 1.9TD With Air con problem cooling fans on permanently

Found a blown 5A fuse in the fusebox under the right side of the steering wheel (near driver-side door). Replaced this, and all symptoms appear to have gone... question is, what caused the fuse to blow in the first place?

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 1348 Answers

SOURCE: Motor mount broke at 128000 miles had it fixed

take it to a shop that has a camera to go inside the cylinder to see what has damaged the glow plug.check the oil pan,see if it damaged from jacking up the engine to change the motor mount.is there still oil in it? the engine needs to be repaired.

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: The crank shaft position sensor won't come out,

HI -

I replaced the crank shaft position sensor last weekend in my driveway. A 2001 Dodge Dakota - 4.7 l engine. Initially it seemed like it was going to be an easy task - - Remove one bolt from the block and back out the sensor from the block. Just as you have discovered - it would not budge. I was able to get a hold of the sensor with a skinny nose pair of vise grips. I twisted the unit back and forth many times - I sprayed wd40 in the slot as I twisted the sensor. The sensor is made of plastic so you need to be gentle. I continued to twist the sensor and I was able to apply side pressure (with my hand going over the frame and pulling on the unit). I also used a small crow-bar type of lever to aid in applying the side pressure, After some sweating and, yellow fly attacks :) the sensor started to come out slowly - It took some persistence - but it eventually came out. The new one had trouble going in - The hole was rusty - - so I used a fine grit sandpaper wrapped around my finger - Again - persistance was the key - I applied motor oil and vasoline to the new unit - I had to tap it lightly with the flat side of a large crescent wrench (right tool for the right job :) It also eventtually seated enough to get the bolt in and viola!!!

If I had to do it again - I would look for a toold that could grasp and apply perpendicular pressure at the same time - have fun :)

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

SOURCE: Codes: P0031, P0142, and P1148 pulled from my

Do not hose your money on these problems until you have investigating the issue more deeply. Nissan build reliable cars using reliable components so it is unusual to have a list of error codes. There must have been some symptoms that caused to have the codes looked at. I would first start with the oxygen sensor between the catalytic converter and engine. Symptoms of fault include:-

· Fast/erratic idle, poor fuel economy - if the oxygen sensor, in error, reports to the ECU that the engine is running lean (oxygen levels are high) the ECU may respond by enriching the fuel mix. This causes the engine to have a lumpy idle at a higher than normal rate and also increases fuel consumption.

· Hesitation and surging - signals from the oxygen sensor continue throughout the engine performance range so fault issues that manifest themselves at idle will occur at all engine speeds with performance consequences.

· Misfire and stalling - if the oxygen sensor reports that the exhaust oxygen levels are too low (i.e. engine running rich) the fuel mix might be reduced, through reduced injection times, to the point at which the engine misfires or stalls from being made too lean.

How to check? Ensure the connection to the oxygen sensor is robust and clean. As the oxygen sensor only works when hot there is the danger of getting burnt by working on it so a safe approach is to find the electrical connection on the wiring harness remote from the oxygen sensor and to make voltage measurements there. Most garages have systems that can record the amplitude and frequency of the voltage peaks being produced by the oxygen sensor. A less sophisticated means to get some impression of the oxygen sensor function is to use a moving coil galvanometer type voltmeter (analogue needle on dial). Setting the voltage range to 1 volt and by attaching the meter leads across the sensor wires it should be possible to see the rhythmic pulsing and the voltage range of the operating sensor output. If no pulses are seen it could be either a break in the wire or a fault with the sensor itself.

Posted on Dec 09, 2010

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Po725 code on chrysler sebring can it cause the starter to go bad


Hi there:

DTC P0725 - ENGINE SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT


When Monitored: Continuously after a ignition key is turned from the OFF to RUN

position and/or key is turned from the CRANK to the RUN position.

Set Condition: The code is set when the engine speed sensed by the Transmission Control

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POSSIBLE CAUSES:

CHECKING SYMPTOMS AND POSSIBLE CAUSES

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WHERE IS THE CRANK SHAFT SENSOR LOCATED


The 2002 Santa Fe came with three (3) possible powertrains (engines). The 4 cylinder, and two different V6 engines - i.e. 2.4L 4 cylinder, the 2.7L V6 and the 3.5L V6.

The crankshaft position sensor on the 4 cylinder and the 3.5L V6 are in the same place - Front Crank Shaft behind the pully (behind the timing belt cover.

On the 2.7L V6, the Cranshaft Position Sensor is located in the engine block (Left Hand Side)
near the flywheel (adjacent to the LH (Bank 2) exhaust manifold.

Note: Left Hand Side means the radiator side (front) Bank 1 is the firewall side.

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Ive got a 94 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 liter i put a 93 4.0 liter and caint get it to fire but it has different distributor


i think you pretty much answered your own question there. Use the '94 distributor in the other engine and make sure that all the sensors are in place, connected and all for a 94. Also check the crank position sensor. If left in place during install, they can get damaged if the flywheel hits it. (hope you matched the flywheels too...if different, it will not run.

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The car won't stay on without giving it gas


Jeep Cherokee Limited Crank, No Start
Q. Hi! The Jeep has periods when it will not start for a couple days (cranks fine but won't fire), then it will mysteriously start again. A friend suggested that it may be the CPS - I checked it has 200 oM - when I'm cranking by hand it's little bit changing - it should be OK. But again, wouldn't this also effect the engine during those times that it was running?
mechanic.jpg This problem occurs during rainy and sunny weather so I don't think it's a moisture or water intrusion problem. Is there any part of the ignition system that only affects starting that could be causing this problem?
  • 1989 Jeep Cherokee Limited
  • 4.0 liter
  • Automatic transmission
  • 170,000 miles
I found some forum where some guy had the same:
"I am having the same or similar problem with my wifes 1990 Cherokee. I have found a place that tests the ICM. It may take a while to find a place in your area. I suggest you go in person and talk to the people in your better parts stores.
I have been unsuccessful so far in finding the fault. My ICM has been tested twice and passed both times. I have power to the ICM and the coil checks within parameters. This has been a very frustrating problem for me. I'm about ready to drive it off a cliff and call it a day. Good luck."

So my question is; what is the reason of that? Thanks for help...
Pawel
A. This was a widespread problem for Chrysler and they issued a couple of TSBs to address the problem. The first was:
Models:
1989 MJ & XJ Bodies
Subject:
4.0L No-Start, Hard Restart, or Engine Die-Out. Vehicles Equipped With Automatic Transmission Only.
Index:
DRIVEABILITY
Date: December 29, 1989 No.: 18-57-89 (C18-23-9) P-14 Body Code Legend:
MJ - COMANCHE (RWD, 4WD) XJ - CHEROKEE/WAGONEER (RWD, 4WD)
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some 1989 vehicles equipped with the 4.0L engine and automatic transmission may experience an engine no-start, hard restart, or an engine die-out. This condition may be caused by low signal strength from the crank position sensor due to a larger than desired distance to the flywheel sensing ring.
DIAGNOSIS:
42257289.gif Check to see if the vehicle has a slotted crank position sensor:
  1. If the vehicle is equipped with a slotted crank position sensor (see Figure 1), check to see if the CPS grommet on the top of the transmission bell housing has been updated (see Figure 2). If the CPS grommet has not been updated, replace the CPS grommet per the Repair Procedure outlined below.
If the vehicle has a slotted crank position sensor and new CPS grommet, do not install a new sensor, but reinstall the slotted sensor that was on the vehicle and verify that it is good using procedures in the 1989 Jeep Service Manual 81-370-9045 on page 14-87.
  1. If the vehicle does not have a slotted crank position sensor already installed, then proceed with the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
1 Crank Position Sensor (slotted) P/N 83100067 1 Crank Position Sensor Grommet P/N 83100068 REPAIR PROCEDURE:
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  3. Raise the vehicle using a lift.
  4. Remove the old CPS and grommet.
  5. Install the new CPS grommet.
NOTE: THE NEW CPS GROMMET MUST BE REPLACED SO THAT THE MAXIMUM SIGNAL OUTPUT CAN BE OBTAINED FROM THE NEW CRANK POSITION SENSOR.
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  2. Firmly press down on the slotted hole side of the CPS until it bottoms on the machined lip of the bellhousing. While holding the CPS down against the bellhousing, tighten the bolt on the slotted side of the CPS to 16 ft.lbs.
  3. Tighten the remaining attaching bolt to 16 ft.lbs.
NOTE: MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR IS COMPLETELY BOTTOMED ON THE MACHINED LIP OF THE BELLHOUSING AND IS AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE FLYWHEEL SENSING RING WITHOUT CONTACTING IT.
  1. Secure the lead of the CPS to the retaining clip on the bellhousing to prevent its contact with the exhaust manifold.
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  3. Connect the CPS to the engine harness.
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1.Prepare yourself for a job that is to say the least "not fun".
2.In addition to your normal set of tools, you will need a tiny (mechanic's style ignition set) 5 mm wrench. A socket will not fit!
3.Once you've got a lot of stuff out of your and before you're-assemble everything, take a serious look at replacing the following: 2 rad hoses, 1 thermostat bypass hose, 1 thermostat, 3 belts, camshaft sensor, oil filter (as it is in the way & must be removed)
4.90% of this job will be done from the bottom, so put the front end up on axle stands or ramps (preferred as axle stands can get in the way for this job).
5.Disconnect negative battery terminal.
6.Remove upper rad hose.
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8.Remove all three belts.
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10.Remove crank pulley.
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12.There should be no need to remove the harmonic balancer or crank bolt.
13.The sensor is located behind the harmonic balancer towards the bottom. Observe how the sensor is installed. It is possible to put it in backwards (don't ask). Remove the two 5mm bolts securing the sensor. You may have to put a socket on the crank bolt and turn it clockwise to allow the sensor to clear the vanes that the sensor cradles. Disconnect the two connectors up top. Be careful as old plastic = brittle plastic.
14.Spray some WD40 or equivalent on the electrical connectors for good measure.
15.Snake the sensor and wiring harness into place.
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17.Final tighten the two 5 mm bolts and check the sensor's clearance on last time.
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21.Tighten crank pulley bolts.
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