Re: Do I need to remove my transmission (1991 Ford Ranger...
No you don't, its easier on a lift to see it, but if you are laying on the ground, take pictures so you can come up for air and look at the job ! Also please put horses under the truck not just a jack. Believe it or not I have seen a lot of good mechanics go to heaven because the vechile fell on them . I wouldn't want to see any more go that way. I have used real strong horses since I was 11. My father taught me well, and if I ever went under without them he would have sent me to heaven another way. Just looking out for you, okay champ !! Frankie
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Transmission removal will be required for replacement of the slave cylinder as well as a special tool needed to disconnect the hydraulic line from the cylinder. You can anticipate it being a 6-7 hour job having the correct tools on hand
I'll tell you like I tell everyone else, go to the local auto parts store, spend $25 on the repair manual for your truck and in the manual is a step by step procedure for replacing the clutch, P plate and bearing. This all entails removing the transmission. And a 1989 has a hydraulic clutch,and the slave cylinder is internal if I'm not mistaken, so why you have the trans removed you should also replace the slave cylinder because it'll be just your luck after you get it all back together the slave starts to leak.
Hello, Who installed the clutch"? Were there a new pressure plate installed?
Were there a new throw out bearing installed. Does this 1991 Peugeot 405 have
hydraulic or mechanical clutch linkage?
There a couple of reason why the Peugeot wont move and engine is running and
the transmission is in gear.
1.. Pressure plate is installed backwards.--Remove transmission and reinstall
pressure plate in the correct orientation to the clutch. There is two ways to
install it, but one way correctly.
2. Adjustment for the clutch linkage from the pedal in the driver compartment
is adjusted to tight and not releasing the clutch to where the clutch pressure
is on the pressure plate.
Well to start, you need to remove the shifter from the transmission. Then remove the driveshaft. Then unplug the plugs from the side of the transmission and disconnect the clutch fluid line. Then remove the crossmember. Unbolt the bellhousing bolts. Then have a friend help you remove the transmission. Then unbolt the clutch.
Remove drive shaft,remove crossmember under transmission.Remove transmission and diconnect linkage.Remove bell housing,and clutch berring assembely.Remove bolts on pressure plate.Once this is done.Remove fly wheel for machineing.you will need a pilot shaft to alighn clutch assemblely.Possible one will come with new clutch and pressure plate.Reverse assemblely in same order remember to torque all your bolts with torque wrench.Take your time.
That is the hydraulic clutch line going to the internal slave cylinder.You will need to get a "clutch line removal tool" to take it out. You should be able to get one at a parts store. Put the tool around the line and push it firmly into the bellhousing fitting and pull the line loose.
Remove the gearshift lever assembly from the control housing.
Cover the opening in the control housing with a cloth to prevent dirt from falling into the unit.
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
On 2WD vehicles, matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Position a drain pan under the tailend of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft-to-rear axle flange fasteners and pull the driveshaft rearward to disconnect it from the transmission.
Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line a the clutch housing. Plug the lines.
Disconnect the speedometer from the transfer case/extension housing.
Disconnect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch harness connector.
Place a wood block on a service jack and position the jack under the engine oil pan.
On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
Remove the starter motor.
Position a transmission jack, under the transmission.
Remove the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers.
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the transmission mount and damper to the crossmember.
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the crossmember.
Lower the engine jack slightly to angle the transmission assembly. Work the clutch housing off the locating dowels and slide the clutch housing and the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the clutch disc.
Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from the vehicle.
Check that the mating surfaces of the clutch housing, engine rear and dowel holes are free of burrs, dirt and paint.
Place the transmission on the transmission jack. Position the transmission under the vehicle, then raise it into position. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines and work the transmission forward into the locating dowels.
Install the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers. Tighten the retaining bolts to specifications. Remove the transmission jack.
Install the starter motor. Tighten the attaching nuts.
Raise the engine and install the rear crossmember, insulator and damper and attaching nuts and bolts. Tighten and torque the bolts to specification.
On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case.
On 2WD vehicles, insert the driveshaft into the transmission extension housing and install the center bearing attaching nuts, washers and lockwashers. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle drive flange.
Connect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch connectors.
Connect the hydraulic clutch line and bleed the system.
Install the speedometer cable.
Check and adjust the fluid level.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the gearshift lever assembly. Install the boot cover and bolts.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Check for proper shifting and operation of the transmission.