Mercury 9.8 long shaft serial No. 8069168 what was it made and where can i get a water pump

There are a couple of videos that might help. One is specific to Mercury. One is a boat engine!

https://www.google.com/search?q=98+mercury+tracer+replace+water+pump

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There are no new transmissions

Only new once off the assy line

You can replace any part in any tran
you like,they are called hard parts &
you buy them as used & reconditioned

How do you know the pump shaft doesn't turn?

its a new water pump i think if it has how i think it has and the shaft has snapped

The oil pump shaft is driven by the distributor. If a broken piece of the oil pump shaft is still lodged in the distributor drive socket you may have to remove the distributor to remove the broken piece. Normally there is no retainer keeping the shaft inserted into the distributor drive socket. So when the oil pump is removed the shaft will typically slide, or fall out.

The fan clutch is threaded onto the water pump. They make a tool to hold the pulley from turning so you can turn the large hex part of the clutch. You can probably rent one for free from a parts store like autozone or the like. Keep in mind some clutches are left hand threads also keeping the belt on the pulley also helps the pulley from spinning also.

1. Drain the coolant.
2. Loosen, (don't remove yet) the 4 bolts that hold the water pump pulley.
3. Remove the drivebelt. In order to remove the belt you need to put a wrench on the tensioner pulley to decrease the tension on the belt.
4. Now remove the 4 bolts loosened in step 2.
5. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the water pump and disconnect the bypass hose from the top of the water pump.
6. Remove the drivebelt tensioner by removing the bolt in the center of it.
7. Remove the water pump bolts. There are 6mm and 8mm bolts, a total of 12 bolts. They are not all the same length. Be careful to note which bolts go in which holes.
8. After all bolts are removed sometimes the pump will require a little whack with a rubber mallet to unseat the gasket. Never pry between the pump and engine block.
9. Before installing the new pump, clean all the old gasket material from the engine block.
10. Use RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket for the new pump.
And............ the rest is just reversing the above except that you can fully tighten the pump pulley before putting the belt back on.
I hope this is helpful.

front of the 4 bolts into the water pump pulley and shaft @ front of the motor

2 valve





Item Part Number Description 1 8679 Belt idler pulley 2 10344 Generator pulley 3 8620 Drive belt 4 3A733 Power steering pump pulley 5 6312 Crankshaft pulley 6 8509 Water pump pulley 7 2E884 A/C clutch pulley 8 6B209 Drive belt tensioner pulley
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4 valve


Item Part Number Description 1 19A216 Belt idler pulley 2 10300 Generator clutch pulley 3 8620 Drive belt 4 3A733 Power steering pump pulley 5 6316 Crankshaft pulley 6 8A528 Water pump pulley 7 19D692 A/C clutch pulley 8 6B209 Drive belt tensioner pulley 9 19A216 Belt idler pulley

I have used the Haynes Repair Manual for the Mercury Villager to change the timing belt on my 1993 Villager, twice. I just finished last night with the latest change. I found the Haynes manual to be very useful. This is just an overview:
1. Jack up the the van and support it on jack stands. Remove the front passenger side wheel and 2 plastic splash sheilds.
2. Remove the two radiator hoses on the passenger side of the engine.
3. Remove the pulley from the water pump (4x 10mm bolts)
4. Remove the tensioner pulley, including the bracket, for the A/C compressor. (3x 12 mm bolts)
This one can be difficult because it requires a torx head to loosen the pulley and it's a very tight fit to get a torx in there. I ended up taking the torx head out of the socket then turning it with a 10mm wrench.
5. Remove all 3 drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley. (1-1/16" bolt) You will need a good strap wrench to keep the pulley from turning or an impact to remove this bolt. You may be able to remove the pulley just by bumping it with a mallet, but you may need a gear puller.
7. Remove the timing belt cover, it has an upper and lower half and is held in place by several 8mm screws.
8. You will find that the timing belt pulleys on the both cam shafts and the crank shaft have a white paint mark on one tooth. Make sure the marks on the two cam shaft pulleys are in line with a "bump" mark on the back plate of the belt cover. The bump mark for the front cam is located at about the 2 o'clock position and the one for the rear cam is at about the 10 o'clock position. You will need a mirror and flashlight to see this one.
The crankshaft pulley mark lines up with a notch in the oil pan (I think it's the oil pan where the notch is, but you will see it at near the 6 o'clock postion.
9. My new timing belt was a DAYCO and it came with a good instruction sheet. The new belt has an arrow that should point AWAY from the engine. There are also 3 lines on the new belt that will line up with the lines on the timing belt pulleys.
10. The belt tension should be adjusted so that you get about 0.5" - 0.6" of deflection at the center between the two cam shafts.
Note: I recommend replacing both the tensioning pulley and water pump while you are in there.
A water pump is about $32 and the tensioning pulley is about $35 but it's money well spent.
I did NOT replace the tensioner pulley the last time I changed the timing belt, and that is what failed this time. I could have saved myself a lot of work if I had replaced the pulley the first time.

Hope this helps. I'd still buy the HAYNES manual.