Question about Cars & Trucks
Full ht volts being around 143v on this chassis
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a 2001 Allroad that had the suspension pump that continued to run, become quite loud and then it failed to keep the car at level one. This all started while under warranty but it finally failed outside of warranty and we all know that Audi denied any coverage but they offered to do the work for $1500 for a new pump and installation. I am quite handy and looked into this pump and any type of replacement parts and I found a way to replace the pump for about $350 new if you have a bit of time and are a little handy. The pumps are not made by Audi, nor Continental as the label on the pump states. They are made by a company that makes the same pumps for Range Rover, BMW, Audi and Mercedes as well as others. The pumps are the same except for the exterior mounting plates and air hookups and wire plugs. These are minor. You can find the pump for a Mercedes for $300 on eBay or approx $425 in the internet. The mounting plates on either end of the pump are swapped out in about 30min (2 strange screws on one end, drilling out 4 small rivets on the other and replacing with 4 small screw/washer/nuts). The air hose inlet/overflow and output may be different depending on the model but metric nylon quick connect fittings are available at McMaster for about $3-$8 depending on how many you need. You also may need to swap out the Audi Wire plug connector, wire crimps and heat shrink tubing. I found out a good deal about these pumps and their specs. The pumps are all similar except for their brackets and connectors to your vechile. Oh, you also have to screw in your temp sensor to the new pump and plug it in. I spent a week learning about these pumps and taking it apart. I would be happy to answer any questions you may have.
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
SOURCE: Hullo, I drive a 5
Your problem is the fuel gauge sending unit. It needs to be replaced. Another benefit of owning the durable festiva is the access panel under the back seat. You don't have to drop the tank to fix this problem.
Posted on Feb 12, 2011
lost power to display (hint use a voltmeter to see if ok)
Posted on Jul 11, 2014
It certainly depends on the car... but all gas tanks are ALWAYS incredibly dangerous... The sender unit certainly seems to be your problem...
but a full tank is un-workable & an empty one is incredibly dangerous (deadly). The Coast Guard used to tell us a tablespoon of properly atomized gasoline (vapor) could be the equivalent of
12 sticks of dynamite in the hold of a boat.
Been there... seen that... Big bang!
One minute there was a boat, engine cranking, people laughing & enjoying the sun, beer & lake... next second nothing but a wisp of smoke!!
Try going over some speed bumps ... If it doesn't right itself...
Sometimes it is JUST WISER to take it to the dealer!!
I'll continue... but only conditionally... this ought to be a two person job (like a fireman: because it is easy to SAY "drop and roll" but once you are in a fire-fight... your legs say "RUN")...
WORK ONLY in a well ventilated area (deadly serious!).
The only portion of to be done with the ground side of the battery still attach: have the FIREMAN watch the gauge... and the perpetrator disconnect the wire at the gas tank end. The gauge should drop towards empty. Quickly apply ground to the gauge wire at the tank end ... the needle should again climb to full.
If you are serious about proceeding... Take a RESISTANCE MEASUREMENT (OHMS SCALE) of the "SENDER' unit and log it down.
Don't even bother to open your tank… Until you purchase your replacement "SENDER" unit… some gasoline additive AND a CO2 fire extinguisher… or dry ice around… And possibly a steam/pressure cleaner.
Dry ICE produces Carbon Dioxide… a heavy inert gas that can keep oxygen away from the gas… But it will most surely keep oxygen away from you too... in an enclosed area (yet another opportunity to end your life).
Again… this is seriously hazardous work
When the moment of truth arrives... and you have a serious grasp of the dangers involved... and after doing a OHM check... to see that your "sender" unit varies in OHMS as you move the float from empty to full...
DISCONNECT the ground side of the battery.
If your sender unit is accessible from the top.. you are practically done... if not
Then... empty your tank into safe... legal gas containers… Remembering an empty tank is THE MOST DANGEROUS!
Don’t forget all the environmental laws… be careful… properly handle the gas when you put it back and don’t forget the alcohol based gas additives when you are putting it all back together.
Avoid all Sparks & good luck… you will certainly need it.
Posted on Nov 07, 2015
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