Question about Cars & Trucks

Open Question

How to dissemble the Wabco Brake Chamber 425 325 0507 of a MAN 10.180 1991 Model

Posted by on

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What does air slip inactive mean


two videos for you

  • How to reset the air suspension inactive warning Range Rover www.youtube.com/watch?v=xR899nhkRxE
    • BY POWERFULUKLTD
    • 56 SEC
    • 290K VIEWS
    2010-11-11 · Video embedded · Air suspension inactive reset, ... How to reset the air suspension inactive warning Range Rover ... Wabco Air Suspension Compressor ...
  • Air suspension inactive problem range rover - YouTube www.youtube.com/watch?v=sv5nuKb10Ew
    • BY MMMZZZHHH
    • 52 SEC
    • 26K VIEWS
    2014-03-31 · Video embedded · Air suspension inactive problem range rover ... Wabco Air Suspension Compressor Repair Kit for Range Rover - BMW - Land Rover - ...


  • and some text for you.

  • Thread air suspension inactive

    May 16, 2016 | 2004 Land Rover Range Rover

    1 Answer

    Clicking noise on gmc w4500 tilt cab when cold starting and brake booster light on til clicking stops


    This truck should have an Isuzu engine with Wabco braking system....Brake booster problems can be caused by many things...Anything worn out or leaking in the braking system to a simple inoperable sensor..And or a faulty booster which is normally rare pending mileage..Using safety precautions you can inspect you own brakes....However the best cheapest way to solve your problem and avoid troubleshooting headaches is take it to a Dealership and have it scanned..They will be able to find all problems...Truck could just need a simple Update...Or possibly a Recall......

    Feb 25, 2015 | GMC Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    My exhaust blows white smoke when excelerating


    hi, this is a problem i have seen before, the result of brake fluid entering the intake maniflod via the brake booster vacuum valve. the cause is leaking seals in the brake booster. to check for brake fluid in the booster chamber, remove the vacuum hose, dip a slim wire or other into the bottom of the chamber and check for brake fluid on the wire. a booster overhaul is required to fix this.

    Jun 21, 2014 | 2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara

    1 Answer

    Car is smoking when driving don't know what it is


    Black smoke: Black smoke is often a result of too much fuel and not enough air in the combustion chamber. In rare cases, it can be weak fuel pressure causing fuel to 'drip' from injectors rather than 'spray'. It can also be caused by weak fire in the combustion chamber.

    Gray smoke:
    Gray smoke is caused by brake fluid. It generally means that your brake master cylinder is bad, and is getting sucked through the vacuum brake hose.

    Blue smoke:
    Blue smoke is generally caused by the burning of an oil in the combustion chamber. Normal causes of oil getting into the combustion chamber are weak piston rings, bad valve guides, bad valve seals, or plugged up engines where oil is sucked back through PCV system,usually due to lack of oil changes

    Jan 14, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Brake chamber


    No part on this car is called a brake chamber. Please ask around for the correct name and re post.

    Sep 04, 2012 | 2003 Dodge Neon

    2 Answers

    Where is the brake booster vacuum line on the 89 toyota camry?


    Booster line will attach to back side (firewall side ) of booster chamber.

    Should find a metal elbow coming out of the booster chamber that the vacuum line will slip over.

    When you look at the booster chamber from the front, the location of the line should be at approx. 9 o'clock (as if looking at a clock dial)

    Jan 24, 2011 | 1989 Toyota Camry

    1 Answer

    Need a air brake diagram for a Ford L7000


    96 F & B Series

    Air Brake System, FT Series


    b4c4ba6.gif
    Item Part Number Description 1 2025 Front Brake Chamber 2 2A095 Quick Release Valve 3 2075 Compressor 4 2085 Governor 5 2A783 Tank Valve 6 2A550 Safety Valve 7 2063 Air Tank Reservoir 8 2A567 Drain **** 9 2B170 Single Check Valve 10 2K119 Double Check Valve 11 18737 Low Pressure Indicator 12 2A270 Foot Control Valve (E-7) 13 13480 Stoplamp Switch 14 2A662 Parking Brake Control Valve (PP-1) 15 2B280 Chassis Bulkhead Manifold 16 2B431 Inverting Relay Valve (R-7) 17 2A449 Relay Valve (R-12) 18 2225 Rear Brake Chamber A — 3/8-Inch Hose B — 1/4-Inch Hose C — 1/2-Inch Hose D — 5/8-Inch Hose

    May 04, 2009 | Ford F Cars & Trucks

    5 Answers

    Warning lights ?


    Excellent article on the ABS problem by John Robison at RoversNorth ..... 
     
    Welcome to the techie column for the Fall edition of 
    the Rover News. In this column, we’re going to look 
    at some of the common problems with the antilock 
    brakes on Discovery II models. The Discovery II electronic 
    braking system, called SLABS (self leveling anti 
    lock braking), is made by Wabco of Germany. Wabco 
    is a subsidiary of American Standard, a company better 
    known to the public for toilets than brakes. In the 
    automotive field, Wabco specializes in braking and 
    suspension systems for trucks. According to the company, 
    two out of three commercial vehicles with 
    advanced braking systems are equipped with Wabco 
    products. 
    The Land Rover system includes four-wheel 
    antilock braking, hill descent control, and four-wheel 
    traction control. The SLABS control unit also controls 
    the self-leveling suspension, if the vehicle has that feature. 
    The Discovery air suspension is also a Wabco 
    product. As an aside, Wabco air suspension is also 
    found in the new Audi A6 and the Mercedes CLS. 
    One of the most common ABS questions I 
    hear is, Why do I see the ABS, Traction 
    Control, and Hill Descent lights coming on? 
    All three of those systems share a common set of 
    core components. The wheel speed sensors, the hubs, 
    the modulator, the controller, and other parts serve all 
    three systems. So a fault in any one of them will cause 
    a problem in the other two. It is actually rare to have 
    a fault that would only disable one of the three systems. 
    99% of the time, if one is affected, they all are. 
    To see what’s wrong, you will need to connect a 
    Land Rover test system and read the faults. These systems 
    are not OBD II compatible, so a generic scanner 
    won’t talk to them. At Robison Service, we use the T4 
    or Autologic tools for this work. 
    The most common faults are wheel speed 
    sensor faults. The wheel speed sensors in a Land 
    Rover are coils that sense the motion of a toothed 
    wheel that’s a part of the wheel hub. The rotation of 
    the wheel induces a sine wave signal in the sensor 
    whose frequency is proportional to the speed, and 
    whose amplitude increases with speed from 0.5 volts 
    to more than 5 volts. 
    If your Rover has a speed sensor fault, there are 
    two paths to repair. The first is to replace the entire 
    hub on the affected corner. This is the approach 
    favored by dealers because the toothed wheel – called 
    a reluctor ring – and the actual sensor are both part 
    of the hub. The reluctor can get damaged by rust or 
    corrosion, and it can also get damaged by a bad wheel 
    bearing. The only way to service it is to change the 
    hub. 
    As of this writing, hubs (front-RND646 / rear-RND694) 
    cost around $400 and take about three hours to 
    change. 
    The sensor can be removed from the hub fairly 
    easily. If you remove your sensor and look inside you 
    should be able to see if the reluctor ring is damaged. 
    The reluctor ring can get damaged if the wheel bearing 
    gets loose. It can also get damaged by corrosion. 
    That’s especially true for Rovers that run on beaches. 
    If you see reluctor ring damage, or corrosion, or if the 
    hub has any free play at all – you need a complete 
    assembly. If there is no damage, you may be able to 
    fix the vehicle by changing the sensor (front-RN292 / 
    rear-RNH293) alone, a $100 part that’s less than an hour 
    to swap. 
    The path you choose should be determined by 
    examination of the reluctor via the sensor hole. If the 
    hub looks good, there’s an “8 or 10” odds that a sensor 
    alone will fix your problem. 
    Every now and then you will see a Rover that has 
    wiring problems, usually at the connector between ABS 
    sensor and body. Always pull it apart and look for 
    corrosion. 
    The next common fault in these systems 
    is called shuttle valve failure. The shuttle valve 
    is a part of the brake modulator – that big thing in the 
    location where a master cylinder would be. The modulator 
    incorporates the functions of an ABS servo and 
    a brake master cylinder into one unit. 
    If you have shuttle valve problems, you will see 
    the three warning lights on the dash and there will be 
    one or more stored faults for shuttle valve failure. 
    Land Rover has a test procedure to determine if these 
    faults result from a failure in the modulator or if they 
    are caused by wiring troubles in the ABS harness or 
    grounds. Unless you have corroded grounds and 
    cables, your trouble is probably in the modulator. 
    Until now, this problem was addressed by 
    replacement of the brake modulator (RNH082). That’s a 
    $1,500 part. As you can imagine, shuttle valve failure 
    produced a lot of unhappy owners and Land Rover 
    finally listened up and developed a fix. 
    As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle 
    valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to 
    remove the modulator and flip it over to install the 
    valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator, 
    replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes 
    three hours or so. 
    This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement 
    over the former method of addressing this problem. 
    The part number for the repair kit is (SW0500030). 
    If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask 
    for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation 
    instructions. 
    Another common problem is a mushy 
    brake pedal. In my experience, the only explanation 
    for a mushy pedal is improper bleeding procedure. 
    Bleeding a Discovery II takes two people and the Land 
    Rover test system, and it takes the two of them a bit 
    over half an hour. You need the tester to operate the 
    pump and valves to make sure all the air is purged 
    from the modulator. 
    If you are paying for this service, expect a labor 
    bill in the range of one and a half hours and $20-30 of 
    brake fluid. If you are not at a dealer, make sure they 
    use the correct Castrol LMA fluid. Don’t even start this 
    process unless the shop has a tester to run the pump 
    and valves. You could bleed brakes in the field without 
    one in an emergency, but there is no way to get a 
    really good pedal without cycling pump and valves. 
    There is no shortcut for this job. You need two 
    people and the Land Rover tester. 
    We see quite a few stop lamp circuit 
    problems. The usual way this problem manifests 
    itself is a truck that won’t shift out of park. Discovery 
    II models have an interlock that prevents shifting out 
    of park unless the brake is pressed. So, if the brake 
    light circuit fails, the car won’t go into gear. 
    If that happens to you, the first step is to check 
    the stop lamp fuse. We’ve seen several trucks where 
    the stop lamps were fitted wrong, or the contacts corroded, 
    and the fuse blew. Also check the trailer connector, 
    if your Rover has one. A short there can pop 
    fuses. 
    If the fuses are good, you should check the stop 
    lamp switch. It’s located above the brake pedal. If 
    you are stuck somewhere, it is possible to get out of 
    park by jumping the switch temporarily with a paper 
    clip. 
    Finally, you should check your Rover to 
    see

    Jan 23, 2009 | 2001 Land Rover Discovery Series II

    1 Answer

    Cruise Control Does not Work


    check ur brake switch on the scanner and make sure it
    does not show switch is applied with ur foot off the brake also a brake light out
    on some models could also dissemble system

    Dec 22, 2017 | 2005 Buick Rendezvous

    3 Answers

    The "three amigo lights come on intermittently (ABS, Traction Control and hill decent control)


    Excellent article on the ABS problem by John Robison at RoversNorth ..... 
     
    Welcome to the techie column for the Fall edition of 
    the Rover News. In this column, we’re going to look 
    at some of the common problems with the antilock 
    brakes on Discovery II models. The Discovery II electronic 
    braking system, called SLABS (self leveling anti 
    lock braking), is made by Wabco of Germany. Wabco 
    is a subsidiary of American Standard, a company better 
    known to the public for toilets than brakes. In the 
    automotive field, Wabco specializes in braking and 
    suspension systems for trucks. According to the company, 
    two out of three commercial vehicles with 
    advanced braking systems are equipped with Wabco 
    products. 
    The Land Rover system includes four-wheel 
    antilock braking, hill descent control, and four-wheel 
    traction control. The SLABS control unit also controls 
    the self-leveling suspension, if the vehicle has that feature. 
    The Discovery air suspension is also a Wabco 
    product. As an aside, Wabco air suspension is also 
    found in the new Audi A6 and the Mercedes CLS. 
    One of the most common ABS questions I 
    hear is, Why do I see the ABS, Traction 
    Control, and Hill Descent lights coming on? 
    All three of those systems share a common set of 
    core components. The wheel speed sensors, the hubs, 
    the modulator, the controller, and other parts serve all 
    three systems. So a fault in any one of them will cause 
    a problem in the other two. It is actually rare to have 
    a fault that would only disable one of the three systems. 
    99% of the time, if one is affected, they all are. 
    To see what’s wrong, you will need to connect a 
    Land Rover test system and read the faults. These systems 
    are not OBD II compatible, so a generic scanner 
    won’t talk to them. At Robison Service, we use the T4 
    or Autologic tools for this work. 
    The most common faults are wheel speed 
    sensor faults. The wheel speed sensors in a Land 
    Rover are coils that sense the motion of a toothed 
    wheel that’s a part of the wheel hub. The rotation of 
    the wheel induces a sine wave signal in the sensor 
    whose frequency is proportional to the speed, and 
    whose amplitude increases with speed from 0.5 volts 
    to more than 5 volts. 
    If your Rover has a speed sensor fault, there are 
    two paths to repair. The first is to replace the entire 
    hub on the affected corner. This is the approach 
    favored by dealers because the toothed wheel – called 
    a reluctor ring – and the actual sensor are both part 
    of the hub. The reluctor can get damaged by rust or 
    corrosion, and it can also get damaged by a bad wheel 
    bearing. The only way to service it is to change the 
    hub. 
    As of this writing, hubs (front-RND646 / rear-RND694) 
    cost around $400 and take about three hours to 
    change. 
    The sensor can be removed from the hub fairly 
    easily. If you remove your sensor and look inside you 
    should be able to see if the reluctor ring is damaged. 
    The reluctor ring can get damaged if the wheel bearing 
    gets loose. It can also get damaged by corrosion. 
    That’s especially true for Rovers that run on beaches. 
    If you see reluctor ring damage, or corrosion, or if the 
    hub has any free play at all – you need a complete 
    assembly. If there is no damage, you may be able to 
    fix the vehicle by changing the sensor (front-RN292 / 
    rear-RNH293) alone, a $100 part that’s less than an hour 
    to swap. 
    The path you choose should be determined by 
    examination of the reluctor via the sensor hole. If the 
    hub looks good, there’s an “8 or 10” odds that a sensor 
    alone will fix your problem. 
    Every now and then you will see a Rover that has 
    wiring problems, usually at the connector between ABS 
    sensor and body. Always pull it apart and look for 
    corrosion. 
    The next common fault in these systems 
    is called shuttle valve failure. The shuttle valve 
    is a part of the brake modulator – that big thing in the 
    location where a master cylinder would be. The modulator 
    incorporates the functions of an ABS servo and 
    a brake master cylinder into one unit. 
    If you have shuttle valve problems, you will see 
    the three warning lights on the dash and there will be 
    one or more stored faults for shuttle valve failure. 
    Land Rover has a test procedure to determine if these 
    faults result from a failure in the modulator or if they 
    are caused by wiring troubles in the ABS harness or 
    grounds. Unless you have corroded grounds and 
    cables, your trouble is probably in the modulator. 
    Until now, this problem was addressed by 
    replacement of the brake modulator (RNH082). That’s a 
    $1,500 part. As you can imagine, shuttle valve failure 
    produced a lot of unhappy owners and Land Rover 
    finally listened up and developed a fix. 
    As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle 
    valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to 
    remove the modulator and flip it over to install the 
    valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator, 
    replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes 
    three hours or so. 
    This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement 
    over the former method of addressing this problem. 
    The part number for the repair kit is (SW0500030). 
    If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask 
    for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation 
    instructions. 
    Another common problem is a mushy 
    brake pedal. In my experience, the only explanation 
    for a mushy pedal is improper bleeding procedure. 
    Bleeding a Discovery II takes two people and the Land 
    Rover test system, and it takes the two of them a bit 
    over half an hour. You need the tester to operate the 
    pump and valves to make sure all the air is purged 
    from the modulator. 
    If you are paying for this service, expect a labor 
    bill in the range of one and a half hours and $20-30 of 
    brake fluid. If you are not at a dealer, make sure they 
    use the correct Castrol LMA fluid. Don’t even start this 
    process unless the shop has a tester to run the pump 
    and valves. You could bleed brakes in the field without 
    one in an emergency, but there is no way to get a 
    really good pedal without cycling pump and valves. 
    There is no shortcut for this job. You need two 
    people and the Land Rover tester. 
    We see quite a few stop lamp circuit 
    problems. The usual way this problem manifests 
    itself is a truck that won’t shift out of park. Discovery 
    II models have an interlock that prevents shifting out 
    of park unless the brake is pressed. So, if the brake 
    light circuit fails, the car won’t go into gear. 
    If that happens to you, the first step is to check 
    the stop lamp fuse. We’ve seen several trucks where 
    the stop lamps were fitted wrong, or the contacts corroded, 
    and the fuse blew. Also check the trailer connector, 
    if your Rover has one. A short there can pop 
    fuses. 
    If the fuses are good, you should check the stop 
    lamp switch. It’s located above the brake pedal. If 
    you are stuck somewhere, it is possible to get out of 
    park by jumping the switch temporarily with a paper 
    clip. 
    Finally, you should check your Rover to 
    see

    Jul 21, 2008 | 1996 Land Rover Discovery

    Not finding what you are looking for?
    Cars & Trucks Logo

    Related Topics:

    19 people viewed this question

    Ask a Question

    Usually answered in minutes!

    Top Cars & Trucks Experts

    yadayada
    yadayada

    Level 3 Expert

    77514 Answers

    Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland

    Level 3 Expert

    22306 Answers

    Thomas Perkins
    Thomas Perkins

    Level 3 Expert

    14398 Answers

    Are you a Car and Truck Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

    Answer questions

    Manuals & User Guides

    Loading...