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Remove 1020 diesel fuel tank john deere - Cars & Trucks

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: no fuel flow from tanks 7.3 diesel

bad injection pump

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

  • 158 Answers

SOURCE: Disconnecting fuel lines at Passat 1.9 tdi fuel tank

there is a universal tool you can buy from any parts store that will do the job 4 u at a cost of aprox $25.00 au

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

  • 108 Answers

SOURCE: remove fuel tank from trooper

When dealing with a clogged heater core causing poor or no heat situation, I've had good success doing it myself, for about $25-$30 . First thing to look at is if you can get to your heater hoses, as some may be a nightmare, others are easily accessible, but the closer you can get to the heater core, where the hoses go into the firewall, the better. Many will allow you to remove the heater hoses right at the firewall which is ideal.
With engine cool, I simply remove the heater hoses (after draining down the system and making sure I don't spill antifreeze on the ground where animals can get to it, which if ingested could more than likely kill them), and attach a drill pump, and hose to one of the heater core tubes, then get an extra piece of garden hose, and attach it to the other core tube, and cut it long enough to run it back into a pail, as a return line, to recover the cleaning solution. The hose on the suction side of the drill pump also goes in to the pail. Then add 1 or 2 jugs of CLR, (calcium, lime, rust remover) available at most hardware stores, into the pail as my cleaning solution. With pressure side hose from pump attached to heater core tube, and other hose(suction) from pump inside pail to draw liquid, as well as return hose from core in pail, start up the drill pump, which can be driven with electric, or cordless drill. I circulate it through for a while, then stop and let it sit in the core to work at the calcium etc inside the core for a few minutes, longer the better. After running it through a few times that way, I reverse the hoses at the core, and run it through again, like a reverse flush, and repeat as above, letting it sit in there for a while from time to time. I will normally do this when it isn't urgent that the vehicle be used soon, and if at all possible, I will let the CLR sit in the core overnight just to give it that extra time to break things down inside that core. Then next morning, I will run it through again, and reverse hoses again, run it some more, then I'm done. Remove all hoses, re-attach heater hoses to core, and start vehicle, re-fill cooling system, with heater turned on to remove air in system, and your done. I found this quite effective as well on vehicles that tend to blow cooler air when idling, but get warmer when RPM's are increased, just due to less restriction now in heater core, allowing coolant to flow through better at idle as well as higher RPM's. I've saved $100's if not $1000's of dollars this way, not to mention a lot of aggravation trying to change the heater core. Even if it doesn't get you back to the heat you were getting when vehicle was new, if money is tight, or your just trying to make the vehicle last a little longer before your ready to replace it, this will probably get you the heat you need to get you through until it's warmer outside. If you can't get to the hoses at the firewall location, try following them back toward engine to a location that may be easier to work from. There you would want to buy a couple of "Barbed" fittings (Joiners) the proper size to enable you to cut heater hoses, attach hoses from pump, then re-attach heater hoses together when done. Be sure to get good quality fittings, and re-check for leaks after/occasionally, to be sure. Be sure to check also, that there isn't some type of valve restriction or whatever in the hose between where your planning on cutting hose and the heater core where it's attached, that will not allow flow through, as well as out on return hose. Be sure to store or dispose of cleaning solution (CLR) in a safe place. It does have other cleaning abilities, as labeled on the jug, and a simple coffee filter in a funnel, to filter out the debris from core and poured back into jugs will allow you to re-use it elsewhere, but if you do, please remember it has been contaminated with antifreeze, and if re-used for cleaning or whatever, make sure it's not an application where it may be ingested by animals, or humans. Best bet for safety sake, is to dispose of it properly to avoid that risk. Good luck to all who try it, and please keep me/us informed of results.

Posted on Apr 15, 2010

kenneth_rhea
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: How do I remove the bed from 2000 F250 Super Duty

The F250 may be different, but read the Haynes manual for my rAnger once and after 2 hours of knuckle busting and little luck, I went for the bed. 6 bolts, 2 taillight quick connects, and a hoseclamp later (maybe 20 mins) the bed was off and I had the best access to my tank. Rather than making BS comments, just answer the question and let him decide.

Posted on Dec 16, 2012

alicantecoli
  • 22095 Answers

SOURCE: how do i remove a fuel tank

Ha ha you joking me here ,remove the tank ?? where have you been reading this brown stuff from cows ,right heres what us pros do --- find the live wire to the pump in the tank ,lift the back seat and their will be four wires to teh sender unit ,the two thicker wires are the pump ,one feed and one ground ,use a meter to find the feed wire .Then push apin through the wire ,now disconnect the fuel feed to the injector rail on the engine and fit a pipe on it into a can or two .now with a spare wire from the pos on the battery connect it to teh pin in the feed wire to the pump ,---5/7 mins later all the fuel is out the tank -- just like magic then stick 5 litres of fresh petrol in ,start engine and go to garage and fill up ,all sorted .If you have one of them fancy fuel rail /pipe connectors cut a piece of plastic from a fly spray can top and slide this up the connection to disconnect it .Right now what elses do you need to know ,or the cheap way to sort something out .

Posted on Dec 08, 2014

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1 Answer

Where is pto over temp relay or sensor located on x495 john deere diesel engine


I worked for Kubota for 10 years and I am not familiar with a PTO temp sensor, John Deere or otherwise. The PTO function has nothing to do with engine other than slight increase in coolant temp when the PTO is under a load. Check for correct Hydraulic oil level(dipstick or sight glass in transaxel) and make sure grass or trash is not packed around the hydraulic oil cooler in front of the radiator. Remove the screen and use compressed air to clean it often. Change hydraulic oil filters every 100 hours

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John Deere 310d 4+4 1996 turbo , runs great for a hour then starts surging and loosing power,then dies ,will start back but does same thing until cools completely off


check for vent in the tank
possible that it is blocked and the hot fuel is pressurizing the system causing an over fuel situation
if the return had a glass ball in it it is there for a reason so removing it may not have been a good idea
have a jd service center check it out

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1 Answer

Sump becomes full of diesel after starting and engine runs away without depressing accelerator and wont switch off on ignition have to kill in gear?


Hi Dereck:
You don't state make and model.
I had a similar problem on a John Deere 490 excavator.
It turned out that a seal on the drive to the injector pump had failed.
The fuel in the injector pump is under pressure from the transfer pump, so fuel went past the seal into the crankcase.
If you follow the logic of "where can fuel be getting into the engine" you'll find it.
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Jan 01, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My ddiesel Cleo is dripping diesel from around tank erea put another jubilee clip round pipe that goes in to tank but still leaking anybody have any idears its a Clio 1'5 thanks


it may well be coming from the fuel lines or the tank sender unit seal , remove rear seat base and there will be a plastic cover , remove this and you will have access to the sender unit and fuel line , note the fuel line conection to the sender unit required particular pliers to remove without causing damage , you may well see there is a pool of diesel there so start engine and see if any diesel leak is visable and take the appropriate action ,there is also a anti theft type design to most fuel tanks, this being a small tank that if filled first when refueling, then the fuel transfers to the main tank so i'd check for that as well , usually behind wheel arch liner , hope this helps

Jun 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Escort 55 D, wrong fuel in tank ,is there a drain plug or can I syphon the fuel out


Hello, If the D is for diesel, then you will have to siphon to fuel out of the tank until you make the fuel tank light enough to drop the tank. Then remove the tank, turn it upside down after removing the fuel pump. The gasoline that is in the tank by mistake at best could be used in a 2 cycle engine. For the most part it is junk fuel. Otherwise it can be used to start fires or clean tools.

Add a small amount of diesel to the tank and swish it around and dump that fuel as waste. Then try to immerse the fuelpump(if in tank) in diesel fuel to get out the lighter more explosive gasoline. Try blowing out the fuel that has reached the motor and have the fuel filters changed. When everything is together add only several gallons to prime the system before trying to start it.

If you suspect gasoline is in the injectors, they may have to be removed and cleaned too.

Now if you added Diesel to a car using gasoline, then it can be a little easier to fix. You can use the fuel pump in the tank to drain the tank via the fuel line coupler at the fuel filter. Remove the filter and turn on the key with a rubber line connected to the tank side of the fuel line. The fuel pump will drain the tank. It would be good to remove and clean the tank, but not necessary. The residual Diesel fuel will dilute over time.

If either fuel is mixed together there will be vapors. Ventilate and put down a rubber mat or blanket under the catch bucket to insulate it from sparks and static.

I hope my solution is very helpful to you. I want to add that sometimes Comprehensive car insurance may pay for this service. You should call your Insurance company and see if your insurance covers this.

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2 Answers

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do not worry about draining it, pour about 6 to 8 ounces of engine oil in it, and top it up with fresh fuel, it will be fine. The only way to drain the tank is to remove it and turn it over.

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The "MOST EFFECTIVE
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Unleaded Fuel in a Diesel Engine


You can buy a suction hose small enought to get intothe tank at an auto parts store. you will have to remove the fuel from the tank. All of it and then replace fuel filter.

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Unless you want to scorch the nozzles and risk burning a hole in a piston, do NOT use John Deere conditioner in a TDI. The injection pressures/nozzles are not tolerant of John Deere conditioner. smoke = bad.....high egts....and high egts = melting valves.  Smoke means soot, soot clogs the intake manifold and the vanes in the VNT, And soot from the EGR system. And once that soot is in there, it can harden to what you swear is something melded with your intake manifold's metal. Black smoke on a diesel is power you can see but not use, and the amount of over fueling required to produce it can have disastrous effects on the life expectancy of your engine. Melted or holed pistons, coked up injector tips, coked up rings, stuck vanes in the VNT turbo, all problems that can arise from a TDI that's constantly and consistently over fueled past the smoke limit. Leaving it in 2nd gear will have the turbo revving at a high rate and waring it out prematurely and can cause damage to the Vanes in the VNT for constant over boosting due to high revs. Good luck and i'ld look for a different mechanic who under stands Modern Diesel Racine Design Engines. 

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