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My push mower will run for couple seconds and then stops iv clean carb and plug

It will only start when i prim it then it will die

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Either bad gas or need to reclean / rebuild carb

Posted on May 05, 2017

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this could be a couple of things first check that your battery connectors are clean , next think about replacing fuel filter. Third is to when you go to start you car turn the key to the one position and let the pump prim the fuel lines for a second before starting it up in the morning that could be the problem.

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You are on the right path. You gave away the answer when you said you can dry the plugs and then it will start and run for a few seconds before flooding out again.

To solve the problem (there seem to be two of them) do the following:

You need to stop fuel from entering the engine, either disconnect the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump or route the output from the fuel pump to a gas can or back to the tank, just don't let it get to the carb.

Pull the coil wire, pull the plugs and spin the motor over so it can get dried out.
Pulling the coil wire should help reduce the risk of the fuel being blown from the cylinders from somehow getting ignited. BE CAREFULL!!!

Now dry the plugs and put them back in, plug in the coil wire and fire it up. Based on what you have said it sounds like it will probably start up (if only for a second or three). Now pour two or three teaspoons of gasoline into the carb and start it again.

If it starts and then dies that is a good thing. Do the two or three teaspoons and start it two or three times. This will heat up the compression chambers a little and help to dry them out a little better.

Now, at this point it runs fine (well as fine a 2 or 3 teaspoons will run it) as long as it has fuel, air and spark.

Hook up the fuel line again and start it up. One of two things will take place.

1. All is well! Great, it was just REALLY flooded.

2. It runs for about 10 seconds before becoming flooded again.... ****, it sounds like your "new" carb is flooding the engine. Find out how!

Good luck. I have used this "fix" a few times over the years. Normally the engine is REALLY, REALLY, REALLY flooded. Usually because the original problem happened on a hot summer day and the float stuck when the engine was shut off. The heat of the engine boiled the gasoline which in turn flooded the engine. The float stayed stuck when they came back to start it and TA DA.

Several times a little tap on the side of the carb "cured" the problem and a fuel additive was used to clean up the sticky float issue.

In one instance the 4 banger was so flooded we had to snake a hose into the cylinders and **** the fuel out. We must have sucked a quart of fuel out of that little '80 Mustang. We still ended up draining the oil (it smelled like it was full of fuel too) and we spun it over until it quit spraying gasoline all over. Man was that a mess!!!

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hello with cars theres never a cheap way best thing you can do is to pull a couple of plugs first see how the gap area looks clean lightly dicolored no oil deposits second unscrew distributor cap flip up look inside the towers inside are they relatively clean or are they heavly deposited with flakey matariel and the rotor tip at the top of your dist if these things are present replace also fuel filter if carberated were the line hooks up some have a nut shaped housing that unscrews from the carb were there is a second fuel filter this is the route to go first carbs can run in the 400-500 range for these cars goodluck

May 31, 2008 | 1988 Honda Accord 4 Door

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