Question about 1998 Ford Explorer

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1996 ford explorer windows, locks and seat fuse keeps blowing

I have a 1996 ford explorer. my fuse for the windows keeps blowing...this fuse also powers the seats and door locks. It will blow as soon as i put it in. now for me to open the windows on hot days i have to use a 50 amp fuse instead of the 30 amp thats normally there and quickly put the bigger fuse in and roll the window down then take it out as it gets very hot or blows as well. i have pulled every interior door skin off including the tail gate and can not find a short circuit or crossed wires, burned wires, etc. Every window, lock and seat will operate when i put the fuse in. im pulling my hair out here...what else should i check??? please help.

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  • rknaak Jul 25, 2009

    Well its actually my dads car, he has had it for about 2 yrs. it does not appear to have been in an accident, nor is there any special after market items on it, stereo, alarm, etc. my dad is not a heavy person. ive pulled every door panel out and even took the seats out completely. i have not seen any wires or switches that look to be bad or exposed. ive disconnected and unplugged motors switches, etc. along the way and have had no change. something is causing that circuit to draw heavily. would a relay in the circuit cause this kind of problem?



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Disconnect as many of the door switch wiring plugs, and wiring plugs for the seats that you can. Then, drop in a fuse. If it blows, you probably have a wiring issue, not a switch issue. If it doesn't blow immediately, reconnect the doors, and seats one at a time till the fuse does blow. Once it does, you've isolated your problem to a smaller area, and can replace / rewire that component.

If you've disconnected everything, and the fuse still blows, you probably have a wiring issue that will need to be traced. You will need a multimeter that can read ohms. You'll need to isolate different parts of the circuit (probably by unplugging and or cutting a wire in that circuit unfortunately) then use the multimeter to test the ohms from that part of the circuit to NON voltage side of the fuse holder. (If you try to test ohms on a hot circuit you will likely fry your multimeter!). If the meter reads low ohms, there is your short. High ohms (infinity) means there is no circuit, and there is no short. When you hit on something of low ohms, you've isolated the problem to a smaller area, and can keep tracing that wiring back to the fuse box to find your short.

Good Luck.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

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I have a few questions?How long have you had this car?Was it ever in an accident?Did you ever have any thing special done on your car? stereo system, alarm. Something is way out of norm here,something has either been moved out of it's factory position or the harness moved in a place where the hot wire has rubbed off the insulation or it has been pinched and it is touching the body (ground) of your car.It is in the window seat,and door lock area.another question? is the driver of this car a very heavy person?And what does the floor look like where the drivers foot rest( right foot heel ) if the harness is under the heel of the foot rest area the harness can get worn out very early. Crazy Hungh?

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • Leonard Williams Jul 26, 2009

    so when you disconect the master power window switch the short is still there? the power runs fron the fuse box or the power distribution box,I think your short is from the power source begining up to the power feed wire for the drivers door,just a thought.I will help you as much as I can,But not being there will be difficult.Patience will get her done.



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