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I have a koala cabinet and need instructions how to put my lift back

Plastic guide came out and had to remove 1 side bracket. Having hard time to put it back because the tension on the cable.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: electric window cable solution

My drivers side quit working. I took the door/window assembly apart and found that a small plastic clip had worn/broken. I modified it to hold the cable securely. The problem I had was knowing how the cables routed in the door and window assembly to put it back together. I found an online picture of a new one and routed my cables per the photo. It has not given me problems since. Time invested, about 3 hours. Cost was $0. If you buy a new one, cost is about $80 (online) and time would be about 2 hours. If you have the $$, buy a new one.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

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SOURCE: 2005 saturn vue shift bushing broken

yes have both cables replaced

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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SOURCE: timing chain tensioner worn; plastic parts are in eng oil pan

No, should have enough room to slide it out ,if not disconnect the engine mounts and jack up or lift up the engine just enough to slide the pan.

Posted on Nov 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Buick LeSabre side mirror

Yes, you will have to take the door panel off. I'm attempting to replace the passenger side mirror at the moment and have the old one out, but can't get enough access to the bolts to attach the new one without opening up the side panel.
I'm still looking into how to do this, as I haven't found the right sequence for removing it. I'll try to post how when I figure it out, as I also hate paying for a manual for simple repairs.

Posted on Dec 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: adjust timing on 2001 ford f150 4.6L

is there a fuel pump driver module on a 2001 ford f-150 with a 4.6l engine

Posted on Jan 25, 2010

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Hello Allan,

Follow the link for the instructions your need to replace your rear brake calipers:



Repair Guides Front Disc Brakes Brake Caliper AutoZone com

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Were on a 1999 Chevy S-10 2.2 4cyl Engine do you put the BOLTS that connect to the Chain during your Hoist of Engine.. Hoist Chain To What Parts of Engine 2 Bolts or 4 bolts?


Ian, you may have to pick your self up a couple engine lift brackets. Visit a auto wrecking yard and pick up a couple and while your there ask them for best place to bolt them to 2.2, they lift them all the time.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
chevy engine lift brackets
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ivqj2LjE28
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f105/98-2-2l-engine-removal-376579

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How do you reset sunroof in a 2001 Monte Carlo with 3400 model I


check fuse and relay if good than possible motor ot track problem their should be a mechanical bypass that will let you close it if stuck open the following information is courtesy of monte carlo forum
To check the condition of your original sunroof guides:
  1. Gl*** in closed position.
  2. Locate & remove 3 torx bolts on each side of sunroof glass. Lift glass out of sunroof opening & set aside in a safe place.
  3. Locate "J" shaped cover plate at front of sunroof track assembly. Remove 2 torx bolts from each cover plate.
  4. Lift up bracket to remove.
  5. Inspect the plastic guides on each side. The sunroof cables attach to guides on front outer corner. Inspect this area closely for damage.
  6. Do not operate the sunroof with the J plates removed.
Troubleshooting:
If the sunroof guides are not broken & the glass is a uniform height along the rear edge your problem may be a stripped gear inside the motor. The motor has a manual override:
  1. Get access to the motor by removing the map light/switch console or lowering the front of the headliner.
  2. Insert a large standard screwdriver into the nylon bushing at the center of the motor hub. Push up & turn the screwdriver to manually move the sunroof glass. If the unit will fully open & close manually, you most likely only need a replacement motor.

If your sunroof is stuck in the open position follow these steps to get it closed:
  1. Remove the glass.
  2. Try to close the unit without the glass. Many times one side will still be operational and close correctly.
  3. Try to slide the inoperable lift arm forward. If it moves, slide it forward until it stops.
  4. You now need to slide the original plastic guide forward to lower the arm to the closed position. Using a standard screwdriver, push it forward. The lift arm should begin to lower.
  5. If the lift arm will still not fully lower, remove the J plate as explained above, sometimes the sunroof cable will need to be lifted up to allow the guide to fully slide forward.
  6. Reinstall glass.

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How do i take out whirlpool microwave


I presume it is mounted above the stove? Unplug the unit inside the cabinet above. There are 2 large screws inside the cabinet directly above the appliance that hold it to the cabinet. After those are removed there is a bracket that is mounted to the wall behind the microwave. The bracket is a long edge that fits into cut outs in the rear-bottom of the microwave. To remove: tip the front of the unit down an inch or two. This will give you a little bit of clearance to lift the back of the unit up and off the bracket. It's now free feed the cord out as you drop it down.

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Replace headlight on 2009 saturn


  • saturn aura replace headlight bulb with bumper on!
    [img src="https://i.ytimg.com/i/QnvVxud6_7t7W6Rm2ABgnA/1.jpg" alt=" [a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQnvVxud6_7t7W6Rm2ABgnA"]execlon's channel
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    Remove 5 -10mm bolts 4 on plastic cover under hood 1 on air cleaner hose.
    Remove 2- clips with flat head on plastic cover under hood
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    Lift up and over hood latch the center cover plastic
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    03 Subaru Forester. sunroof opens (retracts) about an inch and then jams. Sort of 'cocks' to the passenger side. I have taken the glass out and with help once it gets past that one spot it goes all...


    OK dude, I have been doing hours of research for the same problem with mine. Here is the deal - you can do this WITHOUT having to remove the entire headliner. 1. open sunshade 2. remove plastic covers form the 4 lift hinges for the glass. 3. unscrew bolts for hinges - take careful note of the amount and position of all spacers for each of the 4 hinges (they may have different amounts - reinstall exactly as found). 4. carefully remove glass 5. move bracket back (via switch or hex-wrench_ about 4 in - you will see the "lift wedge" to the side of each bracket - they are each screwed into the rail with 2 small screws. 6. unscrew both lift wedges 7. slide mechanism (switch or hex-wrench back and forth until you see the little plastic part go by in the hole that you have just uncovered - voila!. you will likely see/find bits of broken plastic from the pieces that you are replacing. 8. while you are there thoroughly clean out the gutters and insure drainage holes are clear avoid grease, since that adds to the muck in there. 9. remove the old and drop in the new replacement pieces using needlenose pliers - note the pieces are asymetrical and have a particular left and right side- install correctly, narrow part towards the rear. 10. test to make sure it is sliding correctly. 11. close fully, then reinstall glass, putting spacers back properly, re screwing (don't over tighten as you will break the glass - doh!) and replace hinge covers.
    Drink a beer - you just saved yourself hundreds in labor costs.

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    Replace rear tail light on ford focus wagon 2000


    http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_the_tail_light_assembly_on_a_2000_Ford_Focus_SE_Station_Wagon

    abar_a.gif?v=77611 Remove two screws and rotate to the side

    To remove the rear light assembly for access to turn signals and brake lights:
    1) Open the trunk to expose two screws.
    2) Remove these two screws.
    3) There are two brackets still holding the housing onto the car. Do NOT pull up and do NOT pull up on the housing; you will break the plastic pegs on the lamp housing.

    4) Referring to the driver side lamp housing and facing the back of the car:

    a) You can see these pegs and brackets on your left hand side if you pull the light housing GENTLY outward. The pegs are pointing into the vehicle from the left side of the car and stick into holes. There is also a spring bracket holding the housing on where the screws are.

    b) To remove the housing from the brackets, push/pull the right side of the lamp housing outward and to the left. Do this carefully so that you do not break any of the plastic pegs. What you are looking to do is detach the housing from the spring bracket, and then push/pull the pegs from their holes. You are simply rotating the lamp housing out of the brackets.

    Simply mirror instructions for removal of passenger side housing.

    Replacement:
    This part is a little easier. Line the pegs up with the holes, and then push gently to line up spring bracket with it's hole. Then, push with a little force to get the spring in the hole. Make sure the pegs are in their holes or else it will be crooked and loose.


    Take your time! You do not want to break the plastic. It should eventually come loose. With any plastic on your vehicle, be careful not to force it. Good luck!



    Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_the_tail_light_assembly_on_a_2000_Ford_Focus_SE_Station_Wagon#ixzz197C2shUn

    Dec 25, 2010 | 2000 Ford Focus

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    I neede to remove the headlights for my 2008 E 350 and need instructions. OIt appears that removing the front bumper is needed ? Thanks


    Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

    E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

    Tools needed:
    - Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
    - 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
    - #20 torx bit.
    - Floor jack, optional but useful.
    - Flat blade screwdriver.

    Instructions for bumper removal:

    1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

    2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

    3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

    4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

    5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

    6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

    7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

    8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

    9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

    10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

    11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

    12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

    13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

    14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

    15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

    16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

    17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

    18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

    19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

    To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.




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    I have a 2001 cavalier. When I researched the Haynes guide it seemed like an easy fix; unplug the battery and the fan, gently lift the fan assembly to release it from the fasteners on the side and the...


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