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I was told rear wheel bearings need replaced. How much should it cost for repair on a 2003 corolla? Arlington, tx.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

michigan man
  • 3533 Answers

SOURCE: Rear wheel bearings on Hyundai Accent

no i do not believe they are press in there are held in by a seal try www.autozone.com to see if they have your car listed if they do you will be able to get a diagram showing you how they come a part.

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: replacing front wheel bearing

  1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.
  2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.
  3. Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
  4. Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
  5. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
  6. Remove the brake disc.
  7. Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
    1. Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
    2. Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
  8. Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  9. Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
  10. Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
  11. Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
  12. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
  13. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
  14. Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
  15. Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
  16. Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
  17. Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
    1. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
    2. Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
    3. Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
    4. Remove the snapring.
    5. Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
    6. Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
    7. Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
    8. Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.

    To install:
    1. Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
    2. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
    3. Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
    4. Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
    5. Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
    7. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
    8. Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
    9. Install a new snapring into the hub.
    10. Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    11. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
    12. Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
    13. Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
    14. Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
    15. Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
    16. Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
    17. Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
    18. Install the brake disc.
    19. Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
    20. Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
    21. Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
    22. Lower the car to the ground.
    23. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
    24. Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Rear Wheel Bearing Repair; 2005 pontiac aztek

Remove the brake caliper
Remove the disc, (rotor)
Remove the 34mm nut on the axel shaft
Remove the three (3) bolts from the back side
You will need a wheel puller (three jaw will work well)
Place the puller over the hub and tighten, this will push the shaft out of the hub. Now you have to pull the hub assy. out of the mounting bracket. I found hitting each side,of the hub with a lead hammer to work well. Don't forget to disconnect the ABS senser on the back side of the hub assy.
Do not over tighten the 34mm axel nut when you install the new assy. If you use an impact whrench on it you will damage the bearing.

Posted on May 03, 2009

Mr BrokRench
  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: I need instructions on how to replace rear wheel bearings on my 1994 Honda Civic

Bearings are pressed into the hubs...much easier, faster and economical (if you don't have a press) to replace the complete bearing/hub assembly, no pressing is needed, since bearings are already pressed into the new hubs. Cost..aprox, 60 buxs each.
Here are the steps for the rear replacement...
Loosen the lug nuts on a rear wheel. 2) Chock the wheels and jack the rear of the car on the side with the lug nuts that you just loosened. 3) Remove the wheel by removing the lug nuts. 4) Pry open the dust cap covering the center of the axle/spindle. A small screwdriver tapped into the space between the hub and dust cap will work well for this. 5) With the dust cap now removed, use a thin center punch to straighten the little dent in the rim of the spindle nut so that you will be able to turn it freely in the next step. 6) Use a 32mm socket and a large breaker-bar to loosen the spindle nut. Unscrew the nut all the way and place it in a clean, safe area. 7) You should now be able to slide the hub/bearing assembly from the shaft. 8) Installation is the reverse of removal. Use plenty of high-temperature wheel bearing grease on all surfaces before you mount the replacement hub assembly.

IMPORTANT: Torque the spindle nut to 134 ft/lbs....(per manual specs)

When reinstalling the dust caps, tap them gently into place to avoid denting them...Install wheels, jack her down and pat yourself on the back...job complete.
Good luck..hope this will fixya up...please take time to leave me a fixya rateing...

Posted on May 23, 2009

  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: Procedure for replacing rear wheel bearings 2000 Forester

i'm assuming you don't have a hubshark,this is a tool that will alllow you to remove the bearing while the knuckle is attached to the car,you may be able to rent this tool at a auto prts store .if not you need to remove the entie knuckle,first remove the trailing arm bolt,then the lateral link bolt{long and stubborn bolt},disassemble the brake shoes and parking brake cable,abs sensor if equipped the knuckle to strut bolt{no marking necessary they are not eccentric} then you need a to use or borrow a press to remove hub and bearings good luck

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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I am not sure I detected anything until I sent my car to the dealer for State inspections services and the mechanic told me I needed rear wheel bearings which would cost me a whopping $640! in order to...


the maximum wheel bearing end play is .040in so if there is to much end play that is why you failed the inspection. you can replace them yourself with just some basic hand tools it is not easy ( if it were easy everyone would do it ) but it is do-able. the bearings cost $184.52 ( retail ) at NAPA ( part # PBR 930362 ) if you think you want to try it yourself let me know and i can get you the procedure and torke spec.

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Hi. how would i repair a rear axle for a 2006 toyota corolla? i dont have a lift so will i need to take it to an autobody shop? if so how much do these repairs cost usually?


What are going to do to repair the axle? There really is no axle on front drive cars, the wheel assembly is connected to a hub that is mounted to the frame through swing arms. And, you would not take your car to a autobody shop for mechanical work. The cost of repairs depends on what is being done.

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I need to fix the rear passenger side wheel bearing on my 2002 corolla but i would like to take it apart so i dont have to buy the entire assembly.


The rear wheel bearings is a bolt in hub unit and is not separately serviceable on this car.

Any attempt to replace just the bearing will have to involve pressing the bearings out then taking them to local bearing suppliers and having replacement units sourced or made based on the dimensions, as their are no correct listings available for this application.
The cost would far exceed the $300 for the hub, and quickly.

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Diagnosing the bearings can be tricky depending on severity of wear. Typically - drone noise at highway speeds, squeeling, clicking or grinding noises at low speeds that reduce during braking, or pull off the wheel and brake assembly and check the bearing for slack or smoothness of rotation by hand. While doing this, check the brake assembly thoroughly - generally a more likely culprit of wheel noise.

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In my humble opinion, I would say this is not normal wear and tear. If it were me I would get a 2nd opinion. I have been driving for over 40 years and I do not remember the last time I had to replace a wheel bearing. I'm not saying it can't happen but another opinion would be worth the nominal cost.

And if the answer is a strong "it's not needed" I would find another mechanic than the one that gave you the estimate

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I have the same problem and it turned out the rear wheel bearing wad the culprit. Not a cheap fix (around 300.00) since you have to replace the whole assy.

Vince

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HI, For replace the front wheel bearing. on a toyota corolla 03
You need a hydrualic bench.
Because they goin pressed.
I recomend go to a repair shop, is not easy.
It's take about 2 hour to do. with the right tools.

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