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I need a wire diagram of the spark plug ,distributor circuit . I want to find how the external coil resister is in the circuit .

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Without the make, model, year and engine type can't help.

Posted on May 03, 2017

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Why I'm not get n fire to spark plug


Hey Troy, I need year--make--model? Any applicable trouble codes?
It depends on your ignition system? If distributor ignition system, have to check distributor--dis cap--rotor--spark plugs--spark plug wires and electrical circuits. If dis ignition, no distributor, but a coil pack, also check electrical circuits. You could have coil on plug ignition or coil near plug ignition. I need more info?

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Engine stop


If theres no spark from the spark plugs then you would have to replace them?

Jul 12, 2008 | 1993 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

How do I test my 2002 jeep liberty coil ignition. I need to find out which one is bad


Use a multi-meter, turn it to ohms, and check the resistance in the coil circuit. All should be similar- showing resistance of only a few ohms, typically. High resistance in the circuit indicates a bad coil.

Or you could just check for spark on each coil to plug wire. Check the spark at each plug wire end terminal with the engine cranking over. If spark is a strong, blue spark, that coil is probably good.

Sep 12, 2015 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

96 nissan altima gxe runs good until it gets hot then stalls


I've been there.... A nightmare!!!

Your prolem sounds as the classical Hot Coil problem with no solution. Next time when engine stalls, check for spark, touch the coil and the ignition module. If they feel hot to the touch (can't hold it), chances are there is too much resistance in the High Tension side of the ignintion circuit.
This means the circuit from the coil to the spark plugs has too much resistance. Since you already changed everything I have to ask a question: Is everything as original specs??

When I had this problem it resulted that the gap between the terminals of the distributor cap (new) and rotor where to big, This created great resistance which heated the coil and quit sending spark.

Perhaps there is something in the High Tension circuit which is out of original specs. Is the gap in spark plugs correct?
Try an old distibutor cap. Do the metal contacts in the spark plug cables touch the metal of the spark plug contact?
Does the metal contact from the cable touch the metal from the coil's contact? Are they dry?

Check things which can create a gap where electriciy has to "jump" to complete its way to the spark plug. These are the ones which cause the hot coil and hot module trouble.

Nov 12, 2013 | Nissan Altima Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1974 jeep cj5 amc 304 v8 solenoid wiring


We do not have wiring diagrams here at fixya, the manuals are copyrighted material I did find this one picture with numbered wires that may help you hook things up.
9_18_2012_3_40_29_pm.jpg
9_18_2012_3_40_52_pm.jpg

Sep 18, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to check ignition coil for proper operation


  1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0 or nearly 0 ohms . If not replace the coil.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.
jturcotte_2418.gif





All tests included below.

The symptoms of a defective component within the HEI system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system. Some of these symptoms are:


Hard or No Starting Rough Idle Poor Fuel Economy Engine misses under load or while accelerating.
If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module.
Instruments designed specifically for testing HEI systems are available from several tool manufacturers. Some of these will even test the module itself. However, the tests given in this section will require only an ohmmeter and a voltmeter.

CAUTION The HEI ignition system can generate voltage of 30,000-50,000 volts. When testing the system, DO NOT hold a spark plug wire while the engine is running or cranking. Personal injury and or damage to the ignition system may result if this caution is not followed.
Since the only change between electronic and conventional ignition systems is in the distributor component area, it is imperative to check the secondary ignition circuit first. If the secondary circuit checks out properly, then the engine condition is probably not the fault of the ignition system.
If the engine won't start, perform this test. This will narrow the problem area down considerably.
  1. Remove one of the plug wires and insert a HEI spark tester tool in the plug socket.
  2. Ground the spark tester to the block and crank the engine. DO NOT touch the spark plug wire while the engine is cranking.
  3. The spark should be crisp and bright blue in color. If a normal spark occurs, try each spark plug wire until a no spark condition or a weak orange color spark is found. If all sparks are good, the problem is probably not in the ignition system. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs.

If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery (BAT) terminal in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the ON position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly. Go on to the distributor components test section.


If the engine runs, but runs roughly or cuts out, make sure the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious cracks or breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not pierce the wires with a probe.
If the plug wires are OK, remove the cap assembly and check for moisture, cracks, chips, carbon tracks, or any other high voltage leaks or failures. Replace the cap if any defects are found. Make sure the timer wheel rotates when the engine is cranked. If everything is all right so far, go on to the distributor components test section.
DISTRIBUTOR COMPONENTS TESTINGSee Figures 2 and 3
If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the cap assembly removed and the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
  1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be 0&omega or nearly 0&omega . If not replace the coil.
  2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the ohmmeter between the rotor button and the TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance in both cases should be between 6,000 and 30,000&omega. Be sure to test between the rotor button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
  3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite resistance or out of specification.

jturcotte_2419.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking coil resistance. Ohmmeter 1 shows primary test. Ohmmeter 2 shows secondary test.
These resistance checks will not disclose shorted coil windings. This condition can only be detected with scope analysis or a suitably designed coil tester. If these instruments are unavailable, replace the coil with a known good coil as a final coil test.

  1. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinite requires replacement of the pick-up coil.
  2. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 650 and 850&omega, or 500 and 1,500&omega on 1977 and later models. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test (early models). This will detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits.
  3. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the substitution test, replace it.

jturcotte_2420.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Pick-up coil testing

Oct 24, 2011 | 1989 Buick Park Avenue

2 Answers

No spark from coil 1991 chrysler labaron v 6


Start by testing the ignition coil primary, and secondary resistance.

To measure the primary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals (the terminals which are connected to the engine wiring harness) on the coil. To test the secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the positive (+) coil terminal and the high voltage cable terminal on the coil. Then, measure the resistance between the positive (+) coil terminal and the coil case; the resistance for the case should exhibit infinite resistance. For coils manufactured by Diamond, the primary resistance at 70-80°F (21-27°C) should be 0.97-1.18 ohms and the secondary resistance should be 11,300-15,300 ohms. Coils built by the Toyodenso company should exhibit a primary resistance at 70-80°F (21-27°C) of 0.95-1.20 ohms and a secondary resistance of 11,300-13,300 ohms. Replace any coil with a new one if it does not meet the specifications.

FAILURE-TO-START TEST Before proceeding with this test make certain that spark has been checked for at the coil. Refer to the ignition coil testing procedures. Failure to do this may lead to unnecessary diagnostic time and wrong test results. CAUTION
Be sure to apply the parking brake and block the wheels before performing any test with the engine running.
  1. Check the battery voltage. It must be at least 12.4 volts to perform the test. If the battery voltage is not at least 12.4 volts, refer to Section 1 for battery charging procedures.
  2. Crank the engine for 5 seconds while monitoring the voltage at the coil positive (+) terminal. If the voltage remains near zero during the entire period of cranking, refer to Section 4 for the On-board Diagnostic checks. The checks will test the PCM and the auto shutdown relay.
  3. If the voltage is at near-battery voltage and drops to zero after 1-2 seconds of cranking, refer to Section 4 On-board Diagnostic procedures. The problem is likely to be related to the distributor reference pick-up circuit to the PCM.
  4. If the voltage remains at near battery voltage during the entire 5 seconds, with the key OFF, remove the PCM 60-way connector. Check the 60-way connector for any terminals that are pushed out or loose.
  5. Remove the connector to the coil positive (+) and connect a jumper wire between the battery positive (+) terminal and the coil (+) terminal.
  6. Using the special jumper wire shown in the illustration, momentarily ground terminal No. 19 of the 60-way connector. A spark should be generated when the ground is removed.
  7. If a spark is generated, replace the PCM with a new one.
  8. If no spark is generated, use the special jumper wire to ground the coil negative (-) terminal directly.
  9. If a spark is produced, inspect the wiring harness for an open circuit condition.
  10. If no spark is produced, replace the ignition coil with a new one.
TESTING
  1. Check for stored trouble codes, then proceed as follows:
    • Fault code 11 - proceed to the next step.
    • Fault code 54 - proceed to step 6.
    NOTE: Before proceeding, verify that a minimum of 12.4 volts is available from the battery for operation of cranking and ignition systems.
  2. Test the distributor pick-up signal reference circuit as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    2. Unplug the distributor pick-up connector.
    3. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and have an assistant hold it 1⁄4 in. (6mm) from a good engine ground.
    4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    5. Connect a jumper wire to the gray (GY) wire terminal and touch the other end of the jumper wire to the black/light blue (BK/LB) wire terminal on the distributor harness connector several times. While performing this, observe the coil wire.
      • If there is spark from the coil wire, proceed to the next step
      • If there is no spark from the coil wire, the problem is in the engine controller or wiring.
  3. Check the power supply to the distributor reference pick-up as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    2. Connect a voltmeter between the orange wire in the harness connector and a known good ground.
      • If the reading on the voltmeter is 8-9.5 volts, proceed to the next step.
      • If the reading is anything but 8-9.5 volts, check for problems in the circuit between the reference connector and the engine controller.
  4. Check the mechanical operation of the distributor as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    2. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor housing.
    3. Crank the engine while observing the ignition rotor.
      • If the distributor rotor revolves while the engine is being cranked over, replace the distributor pick-up coil assembly with a new one.
      • If the distributor rotor did not rotate, inspect the engine for a mechanical fault and repair as necessary.
  5. If fault code 54 (No distributor sync pick-up signal) is being received, or was received before performing this test, proceed as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    2. Unplug the distributor pick-up connector.
    3. Connect a voltmeter to the tan/yellow (TN/YL) wire of the harness connector.
    4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
      • If the reading on the voltmeter is at 4 volts, replace the distributor pick-up coil assembly.
      • If the reading is 0 volts, check for an open in the wiring harness between the reference connector and the engine controller.

Jan 30, 2011 | 1991 Chrysler LeBaron

1 Answer

No spark at plugs 96 civic


Check the distributor, inside the distributor cap (big-black). There may be a short in the coil windings, lowing voltage output. If the resistance at terminals battery positive and ground on the distributor is (ohms) is OL (open circuit) then there is your problem, same if no resistance. Check wiring to distributor. Check relays and ignition fuse in distribution box. IF all are good suspect ignition module (small moon thing loxwer inside distributor cap.

Dec 14, 2010 | 1994 Honda Civic

1 Answer

What should a multimeter read on a continuity test on the coil packs? i'm getting 1.9,1.7,1.7


The multimeter can read the resistance and if it is not open or shorted out, I'd say that your readings are in the normal range, comparing each resistance with each other + or - 10%.

I looked up the resistance readings on my online resource, but they did not list it specifically.
---
I looked up the following on autozone.com:

There are 3 dual-tower ignition coils that are part of the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM contains coil driver circuits that command the coils to operate. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls each dual-tower ignition coil by transmitting timing pulses on the ignition coil control circuit to the ICM for the proper coil to enable a spark event.
  1. Inspect the spark plug wires for proper orientation.
  2. With the ignition OFF, remove the fuel pump relay.
  3. Crank the engine and test for a strong spark on each cylinder spark plug wire using a suitable spark plug tester. Ground the companion cylinder spark plug wire of each cylinder when it is tested.

    If a strong bright blue spark is present on all of the cylinders, remove and inspect all of the spark plugs for proper torque, proper gap, wear, damage, and fouling. Replace the spark plugs if necessary. If there is no spark on any of the cylinders, test the ignition voltage circuit of the Ignition Coil Module (ICM) for an open/high resistance or short to ground, or test the ground circuit of the ICM for an open/high resistance, or a faulty ICM. The wire circuit resistance should measure less than 3 ohms. If there is no spark on any of the cylinders, or spark is weak or intermittent, test the IC circuit for an open/high resistance, or a faulty ICM. The wire circuit resistance should measure less than 3 ohms. If spark is present on one or more of the cylinders, inspect and test the spark plug wires for arching, cuts, rubbing on other components, and proper resistance. If all tests are normal, then the system is operating correctly.
    ---

Oct 08, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Venture

1 Answer

Engine diagram for a 2000 toyota corolla


remove the spark plug wires one by one.. remember the connection from no. 1 spark plug to the distributor. the wire from the coil is connected to the center of the distributor.

Sep 17, 2009 | 2000 Toyota Corolla

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