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This is because there is no voltage on pin 16 in the DLC and so the scan tool cannot be powered ON. Most of the scanners have 12 VDC input port by which the scanner can be powered and the car can be scanned.
some troubleshooting problems and diagnostic items built into it, which are only accessible with the dealership scanning tools.
OBD 2 systems on GM vehicles use class 2 data. The signal uses both Frequency and Amplitude to encode the data. This makes them *very* sensitive to ANY add on electronic dodad.
In the service manual you will find a section stating that ANY add on electronic component *may* interfere with ECM communication and cause driveability concerns or SES lites.
If someone does insist on wiring any dodads into the system, it is recommended that all connections into the electrical system are made exclusively at the battery. Most add on company techs will not take the effort to do this Most don't even know about the above.
All the thing's your having problems with are controlled by the computer's an communication network . (FEM) - front electronic module , insturment cluster , (REM) - rear electronic module. etc... It's probably a loose ground connection somewhere . The headlamp switch is a electronic input to the insturment cluster , the insturment cluster is hooked to the SCP - serial data network . The insturment cluster electronic's (computer ) microprocessor sends a message to the (FEM) to turn on light's , the front electronic module will then suppy a ground to the headlamps circuit turnning on the headlamps. Samething for the wipers an turn signals an horn too . 010 Ford SCP Communications
From looking at a wiring diagram i would look at ground connection G-304 . Do you know what a body ground is ?
This ground is located How to troubleshoot headlights intermittently on and off with headlights...
Basically your headlamps are controlled by a computer. The Front Electronic Module (FEM) to be exact. The FEM grounds the headlamps when it wants to turn them on. This system was an early Multiplex design that reduced wire and total circuits where the modules communicate on a single serial line, now referred to as the CAN Bus (Controller Area Network). You will likely need a scan tool to diagnosis the car, and not a cheap one, but a professional model. You many even need a factory scan tool, though I doubt if for a Ford. Outside of security theft deterrent systems they allow the aftermarket professional scan tools to access their systems.
So where do you go from here? With or without a scan tool, the grounds are a good place to start.
G303 are the main ground for the FEM.
G304 is connected via C179 (C means connector) and through S139 (S means splice)
G304 is located behind the LH cowl panel C179 is located behind the LH side of the instrument panel S139 Dash panel to headlamp junction, near T/O to C192 Front Electronic Module (FEM)
You can see the FEM, G304, and C179 in the picture below. Outside of checking the connections and wiring there is not much you can do without a scan tool.
I'm not aware of a particular Manual that specifically addresses Brake Line for your Specific Vehicle.
However I have replaced several "complete" and "partial" Brake Lines in my years of experience.
Specific/Pre-Contured Brake Lines for your Truck are available at most auto parts stores. Calt them for availability and prices.
However these are somewhat expensive. YOU CAN 'MAKE' YOUR OWN LINES!
Also available at these auto parts stores are two (2) tools you can buy.
1) A Brake Line Bending/Shaping Tool.
2) A Brake Line Cutting/Flaring Tool.
These tools are very easy (and fun) to use.
The auto parts stores carry "Straight" "Bulk" Brake Lines in different sizes (lenght and diameter). They also carry Brake Line "male" and "female" Brake Line Connectors. Make sure you purchase the correct diameter size Brake Line and the correct Connectors to fit these Brake Lines.
If the original Brake Line that you are replacing has viable (usable) sections and/or connectors you can use, then use them.
Take the old Brake Line off using a flare wrench.
Check your Brake Line Connectors to see if they will properly connect to your remain system.
Measure this piece with a material measuring tape (don't tell momma!). Measure the straight Brake Line and using the Brake Line Cutting Tool, cut the straight bulk Brake Line. Using the old Brake Line as a reference: use the Brake Line Bending Tool to shape the straight bulk Brake Line into the desired shape, matching as close as possible to the original Brake Line.
BEFORE USING THE BRAKE LINE FLARING TOOL:
Place the proper "male" or "female" connectors onto the line, FACING the proper directions.
Using the Brake Line Flaring Tool: Flare the ends of the Brake Line.
Connect the "new" Brake Line using the flare wrench.
Make sure you Bleed the entire Brake System.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
ps: Make sure you clean, roll-up and put away that material measuring tape!!
its the blend door actuators, you have 2, one behind the radio and one on drivers side inside back panel, also check fuses,but i fixed my heat problem with the 2 actuators, not hard to do but does take some time, you have to get a special tool from auto store(2-3$) cheap) take radio out and its the little box there that is no bigger than a cigarette pack, remove the 3 screws and take wire plug off, in reverse to replace, the rear you will have to take whole panel off driver side being careful with screws and plastic pieces, clean blower while there wouldnt hurt :) hope it helps
There is a special tool for removing the cigarette lighter.Usually only the dealers and tool guys will have this tool.If you remove the element you will see 2 slots across from each other.The tool goes into these slots and the lighter pulls out.What you can do is disconnect the cigarette lighter and if the fuse does not blow then you know for sure the element is the problem.See if you can insert something in the slots to disengage the lighter assembly and try to remove it.Hope this helps.Good luck.
See list of possible causes shown in specific order below. Repair as required. STEP 1): DRIVEABILITY: Check for possible driveability issue that may cause or contribute to engine stall out. Condition may be caused by crankshaft position sensor (CPS) signal drop out. Suggest use Co-Pilot tool to data record the event. Repair as required. STEP 2): COOLER FLOW: Check trans cooler system flow rate. Trans should be fully warmed up. Use special tool 6906A (trans cooler system flush machine). For directions see MasterTech Reference Book #12 / December 1996 or see instruction sheet included with the tool. COOLER FLOW TEST RESULTS: WITH Aux Cooler: Pressure indicated on the gauge should stabilize below (20) psi. WITHOUT Aux Cooler: Pressure indicated on the gauge should stabilize below (30) psi. Higher pressure indicates cooler system is restricted. Repair as required. May require radiator and/or auxiliary cooler replacement. STEP 3): CIRCUIT WIRING: Check TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid circuit wiring and connectors. Check for shorts to power or ground or chafing (rub-through). Check circuit wiring inside trans pan area. Repair as required. Check for electrical add-on equipment that may be involved. Remove add-on equipment if required and discuss with owner. If no circuit wiring problems are found replace the TCC solenoid. STEP 4): VALVEBODY: Remove and inspect valvebody assembly for stuck valves / cracks / damage / uneven mating surfaces / loose retaining screws / other. Check all mating surfaces with a precision straight edge tool. Clean and recondition valvebody assembly as required. Torque all screws to proper specification. Replace valvebody assembly if necessary. STEP 5): PUMP ASSEMBLY: Replace trans pump assembly / input shaft / seal rings / torque converter.