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IH-4cyl w/ dlco-rmy dist.eng-40 ovr bor,hi er comp. hed,hedr,msd coil,points at .017-turns ovr no start,new balst res.,rotr,dist cap.Do I need to open points more? Had dist. out & , time to 0*TDC?

point gap should be around .021-.025" and timing should be set at 10 degrees BTDC static
using feeler gauges is always difficult to get it right so use a dwell meter as that is what point gap is all about

the angle of revolutions that allow maximum amount of time for the field current to saturate the coil and produce the highest voltage possible for the plugs
check that the condenser is not shorting out at the points
to check the system pull the coil lead out of the distributor cap and turn on the ignition
then using something insulated open the points manually
there should be a spark at the points and a spark from the ft lead to ground ( head , block etc )
If there is no spark across the points then they are shorting out and you need to check for insulated installation
to do a static timing, place the crank mark at 10 degrees btdc, turn on the ignition and move the distributor body until the points just open ( noise or spark across the points ) lock the distributor down at that point and that will be 10 degreess on the timing light at idle ( 650--750 rpm manual , 850--950 auto)

Sep 11, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1993 ford Econovan maxi . I have ignition point . What is the gap on the ignition point . Thanks

point gap is .40 to .50 mm ( point 4 to point 5 mm) or .015 to .20"
most point distributors are at the .02 " mark but check and adjust as points to wide will misfire under load or lack power if too close
point gap variations can change ignition timing

Nov 20, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What is the ignition point gap?

In older engines with traditional points-condenser-coil ignition systems the dwell if the ignition was set by the gap between the points. The points act like a switch that opens and closes the circuit of the primary side of the ignition coil.

All later engines use electronic ignition that do not require points.


Mar 28, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cant get fire to distribitor on a 1988 ford ranger could coil cause it

Assuming old-style setup (not sure when coil packs became standard), your task is to check that:
1. Battery power is on one lead of coil.
2. Other lead from coil is connected to points in distributor
3. Points do indeed connect and disconnect when engine turns
4. Condenser is ok (not shorted)
Check points gap when fully open. Bridge points when open and check for spark when you open that bridge connection.

Jun 19, 2015 | 1988 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

I have a early 1970 1600 dual port volkswagen not getting fire to plugs what could be the problem

IF NOT MODIFIED THIS CAR HAS CONTACT BREAKERS (POINTS) Check for ignition at coil (terminal 15). If OK check if coil is grounding by sorting the negative (1). Also sheck for spark at this point by removing HT lead from distributor and holding en close to ground point (engine or body) but not touching. If coil is ok you should get a spark. Then go to the points themselves, Turn engine to point-closed position then open and release the points with a screw driver. You should see a spark there. If not replace points and also check connection wire fron coil.

Apr 26, 2015 | Volkswagen Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Mercedes 1975 280S points with no spark what is wrong points are new

You understand that the points are the ground point for the primary circuit to the ignition coil? When the distributor shaft turns and the points break contact, that cuts the primary current to the coil. When that happens, the secondary windings in the coil are induced to generate high voltage through the high tension cable out of the coil.

Are the points set to the proper opening gap? Here are a couple of checks you could make: With ignition key on, not start, the small wire to the coil's + terminal should have voltage-check with a test light or voltmeter. Or if you don't have a tester, take off the distributor cap and the rotor. Turn the engine till the contact points are opened. Or you could prop them open with a piece of cardboard or thick paper between the contact points. Turn the ignition key to on, not start. Take a small screwdriver and hold it on the moveable arm of the contact points set. Slide the screwdriver down and touch the base of the points set. If the primary circuit to and through the coil is good, touching the (grounded) base should cause a small spark at the screwdriver tip.

If you have current to the coil, but no spark, it could be a bad coil, but don't forget to check the secondary ignition: From the coil high tension wire to the distributor cap to the rotor to the plug wires and to the spark plugs. All of them need to be checked.

If I owned a car with mechanical ignition points, and planned to keep it more than a year or so, I would buy an aftermarket electronic ignition set up for it (like a Petronix kit, for one). I think you can buy them for under $100, and you will never have to bother with those old points again.

Apr 22, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1960 ford galaxy v8 no spark

In the distributor check points are opening and the wear block is not worn away. check that the cam lobes are not worn away and not opening the points. check that the points are not earthing out because the insulating bush in the point pivot is broken or missing. Check that the coil is ok and that the run circuit resistor is ok most of these checks can be carried out by turning on the ignition key and removing the ht lead from the distributor cap and while holding it close to the engine open the points with a non-metallic item like a match stick. If you get a spark from the lead then most of the distributor will be ok just check the cam and wear block to ensure that the points are opening when the engine is cranking.

Jun 22, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ford engine in jgl man lift has no spark

Does this engine have a self contained distributor with points and condenser? If so, check the point gap and condition of the points. With the points open, measure the movable side for battery voltage (12.6 volts?) When the points close, there should be no voltage at the movable arm (if there is, the point surfaces may be dirty). The point gap should be about .018" when on the high point of the cam. If you read no voltage, check at the coil small terminals for 12.6 volts. If still nothing, make sure the ignition switch is turning on power to the coil. There should be a heavy resistor located between the ignition switch and the coil (check for power at both ends). If the distributor is an electronic one, repairs are limited to replacing modules, one in the distributor and one exterior. Check the under side of the rotor for a white spot which indicates a shorted part--replace it. With luck, this will get you running!

Nov 28, 2009 | Ford E-150 Cars & Trucks

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