Question about Cars & Trucks
2001 chevy cavelier trunk latch
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: i have a 2001 chevy
Same problem here. I finally got it after soaking the bottom latch with WD40 for a week. I ended up cutting the bottom rubber seal OFF below the latch. With a BMF screwdriver and hammer and three swings...it opened. The bottom of the latch has an "L" shaped metal guide-this is not the latch. Beside that, towards the rear of the truck, is the latch. The bottom part of the latch must be forced towards the cab and upwards at about a 45 degree angle. After removing the part I could see that it couldn't be unlatched from the inside no matter how much lubricant, heat, cussing or beer drinking I did. TOTAL COST: Latch-about $58 dollars (dealer item only)
Rubber seal- $25 or so
Posted on Jan 29, 2009
Make sure it is not binding/sticking where you pull the release cable.
Drench the entire works in WD-40. Push it back and forth until it moves with no resistance.
Make sure the part that hooks onto the latch hasn't come loose enough to not slide over when it makes contact.
If that doesn't work, take the whole thing off. You'll have to anyway to replace it. Chances are with it disassembled you'll see what's wrong.
Posted on May 24, 2009
SOURCE: Lincoln trunk motor/latch
MY MOTOR WAS GOOD< SWITCH WAS BAD..........
I have a 93 Town with same issue. After troubleshooting it I found the motor was fine but the switch on the motor assembly was the problem. Part Nr. 16601101. I did some searching on the internet but could not locate a replacement. I drilled out the brass rivets, opened it up and cleaned all the contacts. It was easy to see the problem -17 years of dust/dirt/wear. It's now working again. Not sure how long it will last. Some of the contact strips inside were a bit worn. I'll have to hunt up a new switch next time it goes.
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
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