There is a bump on one side of the brake plunger, does it need to face inside or outside for correct install

Engine oil pumps are designed to provide a sufficient amount of oil pressure needed for proper lubrication at idle speed. When the accelerator pedal is pressed and RPMs are raised, the oil pump spins faster which generates too much oil pressure. This condition is counteracted by the use of an integrated oil pressure relief valve. The oil pressure relief valve limits the maximum oil pressure by bleeding pressurized oil back to the inlet side of the pump. Mechanically, this is accomplished when the oil pressure pushes against the relief valve's plunger and overcomes the calibrated spring tension revealing the relief port. When installing the relief valve components it's important to assemble them in the correct order otherwise the spring will not compress properly resulting in inadequate pressure bleed-off. The correct order is as follows: plunger, spring, retaining cap and retaining spring. If the plunger is designed in such a way that the spring fits inside of it, ensure this recessed area faces the spring rather than the oil pump housing. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-a-high-pressure-safety-valve-by-jerel-lawrence

new piston seal possibly not seated correctly and has rolled out of position not allowing piston to return to place once pressure is released.. remove and examine and check condition of seal.

Take a look under the dash, there is a brake light switch. This switch has a plunger that just touched the downward leg of the brake pedel to keep the lights off while the brake pedel is not pushed in. This plunger sometimes gets cocked sideways in the switch housing and just does not come forward enough to turn the brake lights off. Or it actually slides back a little, or the plunger becomes broken inside the switch housing. There is a panel in the driver's side that can be removed to access this switch to replace or fix. Sometimes a squirt of WD-40 into the plunger shaft housing and a little back and forth motion will fix things. Otherwise the switch has to be replaced.

If you have ABS then the wheel bears are not replaceable, and the entire hub needs to be replaced as a unit. The OEM part # is 4340250G11

If you do not have ABS then they are replaceable. The inner bearing is part # 0926225061, and the outer bearing is part # 0926220069.

The rear wheel bearings are pressed in the brake drum with a spacer in between.

Remove the rear brake drum and place it on a work surface.

Tap out the opposite side with a screwdriver/punch and a hammer. (i.e. tap out the inner bearing when the outside of the brake drum is facing you, and tap out the outer bearing when the inside/brae shoe side of the drum is facing you)

Tap in the new bearings making sure that the sealed sides are facing out.

Brake Light Switch The brake light switch is located at the top of the pedal arm. It is the switch which turns the brake lights on when the brakes are applied. The plunger type switch is held in the off position by the normal position of the brake pedal; when the pedal moves during brake application, the switch plunger moves forward and the brake lights are brought on. The switch is almost always the first place to look for the cause of the brake lights flickering over bumps or staying on without use of the brakes. If the brake lights fail to work with the brakes applied, check the fuse first and then check the switch.

Okay....hope this helps......

#1-Front end squeek is coming from a bushing in the front end suspension....could be the rubber on your struts/schocks, balljoint, or tie rod bushings. Have to jack the car front end and start from one side to the other...a little bit of a pain to pin point.

#2-The fan selector switch is bad....which means the control panel has to be replaced.

#3-Brakes....couple of things.....brake pads may have been installed incorrectly...not seated correctly in the caliper....

Have you hit anything recently or run over a parking block or run over a curb???

yes of course, ebcm have 5 pipe line , 1 main to brake bosster and the less through the brake caliper

go to the master cylinder and remove it from the booster, disconnect the vacuum line from the booster, then disconnect the brake plunger from your brake pedal inside the vehicle, then remove the booster mounting bolts from inside the vehicle then remove the booster, install in reverse order, once you install the master cylinder, you will need to bleed out any air in the brake system, hope this helps, let me know

Installation

1. CAUTION: If the caliper piston is retracted into the housing, brake fluid will be displaced from the master cylinder.
   Fully retract the caliper piston.

1. CAUTION: Make sure the brake disc faces are clean before installation.
   Install the inner brake pad.

1. CAUTION: Make sure the brake disc faces are clean before installation.
   

2. Fully retract the caliper piston

3. Install the outer brake pad.

1. Push the outer retaining clip over the spring retaining lugs.

1. Install the caliper.
   1. Install the bolts.
   1. Install the bolt covers.

1. Install the brake hose onto the support bracket.

1. Locate the outer pad retaining clip.

1. Install the wheels.

1. Check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir.