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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: wont start cold has new
Start by checking your coolant temp sensor. If it is stuck in the "hot" position, it will not provide enough fuel to fire. Just like a choke on a carburettor. Check that out and replace as necessary and let me know what you find. If that checks out good, we will move on to other items.
Posted on Jul 26, 2011
Starter Circuit B3000
Using the diagram in the Link above, do the following:
1. The simplest way to half-split the problem is to determine if the problem is in the starter or in the circuitry. If the starter is accessible, take a screwdriver (I know this sounds crazy, but it works), and short the "B" and "R" terminals. This bypasses the ignition circuit and puts battery voltage directly to the starter. There will be a large spark, so don't freak. Be careful not to short anything to the engine block or vehicle body! You only need to do this long enough to hear the solenoid engage and the motor start to turn. If the starter kicks in, the you will need to troubleshoot the circuit. If not, then replace the starter. CAUTION!!!! If you have a manual transmission, ensure you are in NOT IN GEAR when you do this, or the vehicle will attempt to move. Also, DO NOT HAVE THE IGNITION KEY ON when you do this.
2. If the starter kicks in, then are four, perhaps five items to consider.
1. The least likely are the actual wires themselves. Yes they can fail, but there are no moving parts here, so they are the last to be suspected. All this said, if you must troubleshoot the circuit, you should start from the starter and work back, using a test light or multimeter. Hook to the INPUT of each suspected component in the path, then attempt to start the vehicle. If there is no indication, move back one item and try again. When you get the indication, then you have isolated the item.
2. Starter relay. Many people do not know that this relay exists. They think the ignition switch goes directly to the starter solenoid. However, manufacturers have found that the high current of the solenoid damages the ignition switch electrical contacts over time. They added a relay to take the punishment as it is easier and cheaper to access when it fails (and they will eventually fail from arcing).
3/4. The Park/Neutral switch (if AT) or the Clutch Switch (if MT). These are more common and are often not thought of. If the vehicle is automatic, try starting it in Neutral. If that works, and it doesn't in Park, the switch is definitely bad. If it doesn't start in either position, it could still be the switch.
5. Anti-theft relay. If your truck has the anti-theft system.. this relay could be failing,
6. The ignition switch itself. Not necessarily the least likely item to fail, but certainly the least desirable. It is the hardest to access, and the most expensive to replace.
EXAMPLE: Place test light on "B" terminal of starter. Crank engine. No light. Move to input of starter relay. Ensure battery voltage is present on "R". then connect to the relay coil input (R/LBL) [Note: The letters are not labeled pin numbers, they are wire colors] Try to crank again. You have indication. That means to circuit works to here. The starter relay therefore is bad.
Posted on Nov 14, 2013
Testimonial: "great advice. I lucked out, tiny little wire on starter relay (I think) on wall between battery and relay box. But this info did get me looking there."
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