My melodies in motion batteries were rusted and the wires came off clean them but need to know what wire goes where.Ed G

If you had rust on battery terminals it is obvious that there is a lot more rust removing that has to be done. You neeed to go over every wire connection, fuse connection, etc and clean all out.

It's a battery or ground problem. You mean all of them, headlights, dash lights, or what? The flickering is often caused by a corroded or deteriorated ground point for the lights, less common is a hot wire connection that is loose or not contacted well. Your headlights and front park lamps and any side marker lamps, I think they would all have a common ground, or maybe each side has it's own ground up front there. I'll try to find a wiring diagram for what you need, in the meantime, take off first the negative of the battery and then the positive post (for safety, always remove the negative first and reconnect negative last), clean both battery posts and the end of cables or the clamps that go on the posts. Any corrosion, green or white colored, is not good, and can lead to serious resistance in the connection, and hinder the electrical system. Those connections must be clean and tight, remember positive hooked up first, then deal with the negative post. Your truck is old, subject to rust, better check all your ground connections. The original negative cable had a large ground to the engine block and a smaller wire ground to the body, somewhere grounded in front of the battery to the frame. If rust is an issue, you can always find a better ground point-to clean metal free of paint.

If you know all this and you know the battery connections are clean and tight, then look for the ground point for the flickering lights in question. If you have a voltmeter it is almost essential to the testing or checking of any electrical circuit.

one of the reasons that engine stop while being driven is a failed timing belt or chain
that affects the cam/crank position sensors and so there is no spark allowed
so run the fault codes first and check that the cam shaft is turning when it is cranking

Joe: According to B33p3r on http://www.automotiveforums.com/t196775-everyone_with_transmission_problems__a_chrysler_secret____read_this__.html : "Before you do anything else...Disconnect your battery! Clean the + and the - posts and the cables that attach to them. Check the chassis ground that goes from your batteies - post to the frame(chassis) and clean that too. Shiny metal to shiny metal is good. Rust and corrosion is not your friend.
I've followed alot of posts here that have transmissions in limp mode problems. Crawl under the vehicle with a haynes book in hand if need be, and check the solenoid connections to the trans. Clean the grounds for the solenoid! Check the wires for the solenoid! Too many trannys are rebuilt or replaced for big bucks because of a loose wire that was inadvertantly repaired during reinstall or a ground wire that was rusted.
get yourself an electrical diagram for your vehicle(www.alldata.com) and learn how to read it and save yourself alot of money. These diagrams tell you where the grounds are for all the components. Clean them. If you can't decipher the diagrams, copy and paste them into word and email it to me and I'll be happy to help. I hate to see people spend big bucks for parts swapping when the real problem is a loose or bad connection. "Never under estimate the value of a good visual inspection".
Remember all the battery voltage travels out the -(neg) post of your battery, through the frame(chassis), into the load(motor, light, coil of a relay, or switch, through a fuse, and back to you battery +. (pos) post."

Most likely causes if it crops up after an engine has been running ok.
1. Rust contamination in the distributor around the reluctor magnetic element for the trigger. fix: clean out all rust build up. The rust is magnetic due to iron content and it is conductive to the spark will result in cross over to a lower voltage cylinder namely the intake stroke as it is the lowest pressure, therefore the lowest spark voltage requirement.

2, Moisture or dirt in the distributor cap. Result is the same type of spark crossover as the rust build up.

3. breakdown of spark plug wire insulation causing spark crossover in wire loom. Fix new wires

check the temp sensor may need cleaned of water or rust .take off the wire and clean it.

I had an 84 silverado & a 91 sonoma with the same problems. It was a ground wire. Make sure all body, & frame wires are Attatched, tight & clean of rust & corrosion, no frawed wires. Also make sure battery terminals are clean & tight. Good luck.

This sounds like a grounding issue. Check the grounds to make sure they are clean and rust free. A loose battery cable can cause issues like this as well.

clean and spray all ignition plugs will busty penatration oil , check all body gounds for good contact , clean if signs of rust should help

first thing clean battery connectors an post with baking soda an water solution an a piece of sand paper to get any rust off,keeping cables disconnected,next go under truck to where the starter is,an disconect the battery cable wire from starter an clean with sandpaper to get any debris off,check wires for cracks in the plastic covering,an check all wires leading from starter to battery an selenoid,another solution take hammer an hit starter a few times not to hard then try starting truck if that works it means you have a dead spot in your starter an need to replace it which is not hard.