Question about Cars & Trucks
From what I have found out , I believe the transmission is stuck in third , and reverse . I have been told that if you shut down the tractor , and let out on the clutch , that the reverse fork will move in to gear , sticking it in to gears . I need to know a way to get it out of gear to move it . The clutch is going bad , and need replaced , so I need to move it to the barn to split it. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This sounds like it could be a few things. Check the transmission/engine mounts. The linkage could also be a problem by being worn or by the mounts being bad. Could be a bad pressure plate/clutch. These transmissions usually give you some warning first by making noise. Expecially in reverse if they are on there way out. Does it go into any gear now?
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
Are you sure that it is gone? make sure the all the bushing on the transmission are good it maybe that it is not able to go all the way in gear. If you do need to take it out get a good manual "Bentley" are the best it will show you the inside of the transmission too. Haynes are also good but not for working on the transmission it self
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
SOURCE: massey ferguson 3655
sounds like the seals are gone on the 4wd shaft, it takes oil pressure to keep the 4wd off, but if the seals are worn the all passes through and the 4wd will not dissingage, you will need a experianced michanic
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
SOURCE: clutch slave cylinder
Yes, it is located on the passenger's side of the car at the front lower side of the transmission.
You will need the following tools: 12mm and 14mm socket. The slave cylinder could be bolted to the bell housing using either size bolt head.
A 14mm and 17mm open end wrench. The hose to the slave cylinder could be found with either size.
a 10mm combination wrench for the bleeder screw. A small set of vice grip pliers.
Removal and installation instructions for the slave cylinder:
1.Take the small set of vice grip pliers and adjust them to where they just barely close down on the slave cylinder hose. Just enough to pinch off the flow of fluid but not damage the hose.
2. Using the 14mm or 17mm open ended wrench, break the hose loose from the slave cylinder, turning it in a counter clockwise direction. Make sure you have the wrench squarely on the fitting to avoid rounding it off.
3. using either the 12 or 14mm socket, remove the two bolts which hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
4. At this point with the slave cylinder lose, have the replacement part near by, make sure you have the copper crush ring with it.
5. Holding the hose, rotate the slave cylinder counter clockwise, spinning it off the hose.
The replacement part should have a small metal rod and rubber cover which retains it to the slave cylinder. Make sure to remove the old copper crush ring and put the new one on the end of the hose. If the part did not come with one, reuse the old one. Spin the new part on the hose and place it back on the bell housing, making sure that the rod fits into the steel linkage which projects out from inside the transmission. There is a shallow hole which the rod should fit in. Holding the part in place, don't try to tighten the hose yet, screw both bolts in by hand and tighten them. Make sure you have them both in before you go tightening anything.
6. Tighten the hose, a good snug pull is all that is needed. you don't have to crank down on the line.
Now you can remove the pliers.
7. At this point you will need the assistance of another person. Have them sit in the car, you top off the clutch master cylinder (the one which has just one resevoir) with DOT 3 brake fluid. See if you can find a small container to catch the fluid in, or just use an oil drain pan. With you stationed under the car with the 10mm wrench on the bleeder screw ready to open it up in a counter clockwise direction, have your friend ready to pump the clutch pedal.
HAVE THEM PUMP THE PEDAL AND TELL THEM TO "HOLD IT" They should keep the pedal on the floor while you open the bleeder screw up.
Some fluid and air may or may not come out the first time you open the bleeder. Close it and tell them to pump the pedal again. They need to pump the pedal at least 5 times and them tell them to "Hold It" again, holding it to the floor. Don't open the bleeder until they have the pedal to the floor.
Open the bleeder and then close it. Repeat the procedure until you see just fluid and no air coming out.. After the first three times you bleed it, check the clutch master fluid level again. Avoid running the reservoir empty other wise you will be bleeding the cluch for quite a while.
Brake fluid will attack paint so if you spill any on the paint, pour water on it and it will neutralize it. DO NOT GET WATER IN YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!!!
If everything goes well, by the fourth or fifth time you have had them pumped the pedal, you will notice the slave cylinder is pushing the release arm and the person in the car should be feeling a normal clutch pedal along with the "pedal free play" being roughly 1/2 " from the top.
I hope I not only answered your question, but have supplied you all the necessary information should you be up to the task of changing it.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 18, 2017 | Cars & Trucks
Feb 03, 2017 | Cars & Trucks
Jun 13, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
May 11, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
Feb 16, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
36 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!